94Loyale

So yesterday I sold my Outback. So I'm down to my Brat as a temp daily driver, it ran great, but on occasion the tach would bounce and the distributor had considerable play to it. So I figured to make sure it wouldn't let me down, I would replace the distributor. The old one was a hitachi, the one rockauto sent was a ND. So I installed it, I figured it would work just fine, maybe I'm wrong? Here is my diagnosis, I need some help quick, pretty frustrated, and now I have no other vehicle to drive Brat ran good with old worn out distributor. Installed new distributor (nippon denso rather than the hitachi that was on it). Now it won't run at all. Yellow wire is hooked to negative on the coil, black to the positive. I have full power on the + pole, and a pulse on - pole. So the distributor is working fine. Also checked the air gap inside the distributor and it's good. I have a strong spark out of the coil. But none to the plug wires. I tried a NOS cap and rotor I had laying around, and a brand new one that I just bought ten minutes ago. No dice. Just in case, I also tried 3 different coils, one being brand new in the box, no luck. I also tried installing the old distributor again, and it won't even work with that now. Even if anyone has a free couple minutes to give me a call, I could really use the help 570-617-2473 Thanks! I searched around, but couldn't find anything further than what I've already diagnosed

I noticed you said you have been changing positions on the hill holder? To get rid of it, you should have the spring back on to hold the lever all the way forward.

Because you are retaining the same engine harness, same sensors, same IAC, TPS, etc etc, you get the idea. Make sense? Your just changing the physical engine, not any of the electronics.

I would almost bet on the harness now also, since you said you were having problems with it earlier. And all of the codes being thrown are in that harness. When switching motors on a Subaru, the best thing to do is always install your old intake manifold onto the motor you are swapping in.

Judging by everything you've already replaced. I would try swapping out the Ignition module. Dead center in the middle of the firewall.

Odd, almost sounds like a bad alternator to me. If it still runs at the moment, I would def check the charging voltage while the motor is running. Next, don't go blindly replacing parts until you see what your check engine light is. Don't guess and waste money, that's why the OBD system is there. Look under the dash on the drivers side, you will find two green connectors. Connect them and turn the key on. The CE light will start to flash all the trouble codes stored in the system. Long pulses are 10's, short pulses are ones. Ex- 2 long pulses and 3 short pulses would be code 23. If there is more than one code they are seperated by a long pause. Here is a list of the trouble codes for your vehicle http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 Your set of codes is the very last one on that page

It's not bad to do in the car if you pull the radiator out, then you have plenty of room. Just like working on a phase 1 2.5.

I just got done reading this thread, and it does have a lot of valuable knowledge in it. I know a lot of people don't want to hear about the 2.2 swap. But it's the intelligent answer to your problem. In this thread you're getting answers and facts from a bunch of us who work on these cars everyday. These are real world answers on the issue of fixing a 2.5 DOHC, or swapping in a 2.2. Not just someone's "theories" or thoughts about the situation who has most likely had very little actual experience with either motor. The 2.5 was a problem right off the bat. As stated, even with the most updated gaskets, there is still a relatively low lifespan on them. I've done countless DOHC head gaskets. Am I confident in my work? Absolutely. Are most of those gaskets going to fail again? Most likely. There is so much extra cost in these motors upkeep wise in comparison to the 2.2. Seriously, use your head and think about it 1- 2.2's do not have headgasket problems! 2- Much cheaper to maintain (spark plugs are easy to get to, a novice can handle timing belt & wp, Less seals and areas to leak) The timing sets are cheaper also. 3- The only people I notice that bash the swap are ones that have never done it. Along with that statement, they don't realize that it's actually easier to swap the motor than do hg's on the 2.5. 4- Your intake manifold from your 2.5 will bolt right on your 2.2. There is no wiring issues, you don't have to change your ECU, no bullsh*t. Bolt it on, plug it in, done. Do your research first while looking for your 2.2. If your 2.5 has EGR, get a 2.2 that does. If you don't want switch your y-pipe (which is very cheap if need be) Then don't, get a 2.2 with dual port heads, they are not uncommon or anything. I really don't care if people do not want to listen about 2.2's. But if you ask the question, your going to get an answer. Whether it's one that you like doesn't concern me. The only possible downside to this is power, which is not a real big loss anyway. Want to worry about replacing your headgaskets again for another $1500 (cause you're going to)? Want to have a motor that's more involved to do normal maintenance on and more expensive to maintain? What about a motor that is very likely to rod knock after you pop your headgaskets again? If you answered yes to any of these, stick with the 2.5.

Great! Glad to hear you fixed it! Good job.

There is a relay in the fuse box under the hood for the high beams. It is the same relay as the low beam, so you can switch them to confirm if that is the problem. More than likely though, you just have two bad bulbs.

When I first bought my Brat it was also leaking brake fluid from the hill holder. But since the brake lines run through it, even disconnecting the spring didn't work. I just ended up replacing it with the one from my GL10. EA82 hill holders will fit right on, just so you know.

Under $10? That's worth a try for sure, out of 8 GL's, Loyale's, and GL-10's I've only had one go on me. Maybe it's luck,haha. As for the 30 day warranty, all the places around my area have no warranty on electrical items. You may want to make sure if you are counting on the warranty. I think I have a good one laying around off my turbo wagon. If I still have it and you can wait for it to get to you, just pay the shipping.

1324, this is an issue on all EJ's really, since they all have the same oil pump setup.

Auto and manual are the same axles. As for the cat cooking the CV boot, not prematurely, but yes.

Honestly, it's a fun car in stock form, but it is what it is, an EA82. Mine had 250k on it, all bone stock. It's the most fun GL I've ever had. But it's not a strong motor, and can barely handle what Subaru gave it to start. To each their own of course. The only reason we seem condescending about modifying this motor is because we have all owned them before, worked on them constantly, and seen the effects of even small upgrades. Plus, we all see the threads on here from the beginning "I'm going to run with STI's" to the end when the tears are falling. There is also nothing wrong with asking questions to learn. But, there is a search function for a reason. The information that you seek is already on here, just do the leg work yourself and hit the search button rather than getting it spoon fed. As with any forum, if you ask a question, you will get answers you like, and answers you don't. At least on here, you're getting a lot of real world advice and knowledge on your particular motor. Rather than someone talking out their a$$ about a vehicle they've never seen or worked on, but they read something about it on the internet. End of Rant

Adding on to what Fairtax said. The big hose that hooks in close to your MAF, is for the IAC. And you won't be idling without it

First thing to look for on these motors when you have a misfire is checking to see if the rocker covers are leaking oil on the plug wires. When you pulled the wires out, were they covered in oil?

There are a few 99's out there that have the Phase II 2.5 in them, but never the Phase II 2.2. And only in sedans, not wagons.

Another thing these motors are good for (besides #3 rod knock after they have been overheated) is valves that are not adjusted to spec. I don't mean to be a wongleflute, but I'd say 80% of Subaru owners cannot tell the difference between a valve tap and a knock.

What do you mean hanging on the top of the tank? Go in the access panel under the rear seat, and disconnect your fuel pump and sender connectors and that's all. These are under the passenger side access panel. If you want to pull the tank, remove the fuel lines underneath the car on the driver's side, near the front of the tank.

Honestly, if your current cat is working fine, and not throwing a code. Don't mess with it. You're not going to gain anything noticeable at all with a different cat. And being aftermarket, your chances are high that it will throw a P0420. I deal with that damn code every day.

It's not a very enjoyable job, I'll tell you that much. You'll be pulling the entire rear cradle down first. I've done about three of them now, I hope you have air I can't remember about the axles, but that whole assembly, rear and all is coming down. They might just stay in with it. Leave the struts attached to the hubs and just remove the 3 12's on each strut cap. Remember to remove all the brackets that hold the brake lines to the trailing arms and leave the calipers hang with the car. Unplug the abs sensors under your rear seat and leave them with the hubs. Because you *will break the bolts trying to remove the sensors from the hub. There are a number of large bolts (19's and 17's) holding the rear cradle and rear driveline up. After you get that dropped out of the way, the tank is even more fun trying to maneuver it down. It's not just going to fall out That's most of the job, I just got done and don't feel like thinking any more. Maybe someone else will chime in.

Pretty much the same motor minus the displacement. The reliability of the 22 is still there, just a little less power.

I started wrenching when I was around 14 when I bought my first 4wheeler. Started working on cars around 16 with my first car (84 Firebird). After that I got a job working on Harleys at a local dealership, after that I moved to a BMW/Triumph dealership. Got sent to school and became fully Triumph certified by Triumph of America, and became fully BMW certified by BMW of America. Only factory training by the companies themself, no college crap for me. After that I left and began working on Subaru's for a living about 2 years ago at Deer Lake Auto Sales. I also opened my own shop specializing in older muscle cars (mainly BOP and older Fords/Mercs) and race quads. Also certified PA Inspection mechanic. I just noticed I did not follow the rules of this thread Type of wrenching- Professional What- Subaru's are my career, At my own shop BOP, Fords & Merc's (I specialize in FE motors), and race quads How long- 10 years Other skills- Certified Pennsylvania Inspection Mechanic (motorcycles,light trailers, cars, light trucks) , Factory certified BMW Technician, Factory certified Triumph Technician, Harley Davidson Technician, Welder (Mig and Arc)

Interesting, I really like it. The H6 has really proven itself to me as a great motor, as stated, you can see some of the design was taken from that. I'm very glad the filter is on the top, rather than squeezed in the header pipes The offset on two of the connecting rods is also interesting.