94Loyale

Agreed with Nipper, usually a tire balance/tire pressure issue. Loose inner tie rod ends will make themselves evident at that speed also.

No, just turning on the A/C will not actuate the fans. The compressor actually needs to engage in order for the fans to start running. The fans will only run in cycle with the compressor wheel. So without freon in the system to kick the compressor on you won't get any fan action.

+1 with Fairtax, 9 times out of 10 it's tire balance, tire pressures, or inner tie rod end. Most likely not the rack. Sometimes the tie rod end won't make a sound. But jack up the front end and shake the wheel from side to side, that's where you will feel the play on a tie rod end. If you feel anything loose, have a friend shake the wheel for you and at the same time put your hand on the inner tie rod. Then you can feel the play through the tie rod.

Probably the PCV valve, clean it up, and make sure it works (shake it and see if you hear the valve inside).

The clock bulb on that is the same as all the other little bulbs in the back of the gauge cluster. They are easy to replace, I don't know where else to get them but at a dealer.

Well, considering everything you have changed out, and checked already. Since it's easy enough to do on a 2.2. I'd run a compression test next and see what you get. And check the voltage while the car is running. Should have about 13.5 at idle, rev it up a little and make sure it doesn't go above 14.8 or so. Subaru's are funny when they don't get the right voltage.

As far as i know, they are all the same for sure. If that's what you are questioning.

Yeah, def need to pull the shaft for the clutch fork. And check to see if that little plate is still on under the flywheel. If so, take a screwdriver and bend it down, that will get in your way too.

On aftermarket pads it's real common to have to file down the edges a bit to make them fit (Provided these are the correct pads and match your old ones). You never want to just force them in, that's how brakes wear incorrectly. The pads need to be able to move. File down the ears till they slide nicely in the holder. Then you'll be in good shape. We use a lot of brake pads from NAPA, I have to do it almost every day, no big deal.

When you time them up, the driver side pulley marks will be off a little. Almost looks like a tooth, but it really isn't.

It's most likely the sender for the gauge. Find your dipstick for the front differential and look a little further back on the tranny. It's on the top and will have a plug on it. This is the one you need to replace.

I never really took notice with the axles off the front. But I know if they are on, you can grab the inner part where the roll pin goes through and wiggle them around some. I'd imagine it's prob normal cause they all seem to do it.

I completely agree. Those are the axles we use at work. I've never had one fail (prematurely). And that's doing I'd say...atleast 4 a week. I'd def recommend them to anyone.

Usually an alarm just kills the starter. I know you said you hooked everything up. But you double checked the cam and crank sensors are plugged in correctly? There isn't a whole lot that will stop the spark. Also, if you have a code reader (I think everyone that has a subaru damn well should), check for codes, easy stuff first.

Agreed with Durania, make sure you plugged it back in

That's the hole I figured he was talking about? I never had any problems doing it that way, it won't hurt anything. That's why it's there

He's talking about the hole on the side of the bell. The one you can thread a bolt into to lock the crank. Which is actually visible in the picture you posted.

I don't have a picture, but the hole you're talking about is right next to the split between motor and trans. It's on the motor side, and halfway down. There is a threaded hole on both driver and passenger side. But the passenger side hole is much easier to find.

Cougar, I just have to say, that's a pretty damn cool idea!

Def mark the threads with some kind of paint first. I always loosen the jam nut before hand because you don't need to try and hold the tie rod end then. It's a bit easier. It's a 19 for the jam nut, unless its an aftermarket one, then it could be a 22. And a 19 for the nut on top of the end. Once you take the top nut off, hit the part of the hub that the tie rod goes through with a good hammer (4lb works perfect, anything smaller is a waste of time) A couple good swings and it will fall right out.

The throttle cable is routed incorrectly, I'd put money on it

Isn't it great? The secret of all that, is the flasher is inside the switch too Knowing that will save you a lot of time if you ever need to look for it to diagnose.

Twolf...Okay, just wanted to make sure, sorry it was off topic

Off the topic of the idle problem. But did you just drain the trans fluid once out of the drain plug? Cause if so, 10 quarts is way too much. Even if you let it drain all night out the plug. 5 1/2 quarts is about right on the mark when you drain and refill.

Remove the 2 plastic surrounding pieces that cover the steering column. At the bottom of the t/s stalk is two phillips screws, take them out and unplug. Easy as that