94Loyale

Haha, good call, still leaning towards cts

I have no idea what that is either. Since it's usmb, I'd hope it's some form of Subaru,lol. But I would lean towards the coolant temp sensor also, judging by the symptoms.

You may want to post this in the Newer Gen forum for more responses. This section is just for the older stuff Regardless, Rock Auto is pretty awesome, minus getting raped on shipping sometimes. If it's leaking where the pipe meets the head, you'll def hear that, they make a lot of noise there. There are plenty of places for the system to leak. Get under the car, and have someone hold a rag over the tailpipe for a couple seconds, it'll help you find the leak.

How did you check the u-joint? The only way to really check it is to drop the driveshaft out and feel it's range of movement. That may just be my opinion, but that's the way I do it. From my experience, I always felt the carrier bearing while making tight turns and hitting the gas, that will make a real loud clunking. The axles will have a little play. Wiggle you're front axles where they go onto the trans shafts and you'll feel some play there too. I've only had to do it once, but you can check the mounts for the diff too, where the two studs go into the rear crossmember, there are rubber mounts. Try to move the whole thing and see if you have a clunk? As stated, I'd def check the trans mount too, I've replaced a number of them.

This thread is probably better off in the "wanted to buy" section

Hopefully when your friend removed your tierod ends, he marked where they were with paint. Otherwise, you might as well schedule an alignment. You said the inner tie rod boots were all cracked up. Is the rack leaking? And, as asked already, is this sitting still or moving? And is it only a certain spot in the steering that makes the sound, or the entire turning range?

I doubt it's the parking brake you hear rubbing. Every set of rear rotors I put on. You need to grind down the lip (the one the arrow points to in my picture) pref with a DA. These are rotors from NAPA, but I do quite a few every week, any other brand we've used does the same. That lip sticks out too far and rubs. Grind it down. Or make sure the bottom most spring on the brake shoes isn't pulled out some from removing a stuck rotor, and rubbing the ABS counter. If anything though, I'd grind down the rotor. I'd bet that's the noise you hear.

Yeah, anyway? I've never seen one break before? As previously posted though, it does mount the oil pump. If for some reason you can't get out whatever broke, you can pull the pump off to get better access to it.

I don't think they do either. I could be wrong though. I always pull them off anyway, just gets in the way.

I'd bet on the dust shield too

100x agreed with Fairtax. I can't tell you how many I've seen come through the shop with these tires. And they wear horribly, even if you keep the air pressures right. They still manage to wear scalloped. I've also seen many of them with bulged out sidewalls. Staaaay away

Gary, I have removed them on several of my own cars and never had an issue. It has currently been removed on my '99 Outback for 3 years now. No problems at all whatsover.

+1 For a slightly offset boxend. I have a long one from snap-on that works perfect. It's all about the first hit to break them loose. Then they come out with your fingers.

Ettev....I hear ya! Seeing as we are ten minutes apart,haha. A bunch of yards around here used to be loaded with older Subaru's. Every time I go back, there is less and less :-\

If you are looking for more power...you're looking for a different motor The EA82 is no power house, and it never will be. Honestly, don't waste your money on the ignition stuff. I wouldn't run any other coil but factory on these cars. The best thing you can do ignition wise for more power...is a tune up to get it running it's best. Take the $45 you would spend for the Accel coil, and use that to buy cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. Really, do not even waste your money on plug wires that are not just factory replacements. As for exhaust, search around on youtube for sound clips till you find one you like. If your exhaust is in nice shape, I wouldn't replace it. Just change out the muffler for sound if you want it. You're not going to gain anything from a catback. I don't care what they claim for hp gains. I can level with you here. I can't leave anything alone, and every car I have usually gets modified some how. But I've owned 6 EA82 cars, the best thing you can do for them is keep them factory and tuned up.

The new wheels look good, and I really dig the front lip on that car!

Haha, I didn't even realize there was another motor being talked about, sorry about that! Glad our pictures could help you out though. It is buried in there pretty good. But you can do it The knock isn't really too bad to do either, long extension and a 12mm. A magnet comes in handy to guide the new one down to where you want it. Just make sure to position the knock so it's facing down flat, and the wire isn't pinched upwards on the block.

Mike, good pic, but he has a 2.2. The brown connector is for the ECU coolant temp sensor. I can't see it in your picture, but to the left of that sensor is the coolant temp Sender, which feeds the gauge. This is just a single wire. Arty, You can get a lot more movement out of the harness is you remove the bellhousing bolt that is tying it down, 14mm.

I figured you knew by the pictures and my description. But 91Loyales post stating you don't have to remove anything, made me think about what I wrote. And I would have felt bad if you took the intake manifold off to replace that sensor

I should have clarified, by intake, I meant the plastic air intake. Not the intake manifold,lol I realize not everyone knows what I'm thinking when I'm typing.

And make sure to check the hose that is right above the water pump I've had a few of them leak and look like the water pump. Just make sure it's not ready to fall apart while you are in there,lol.

If it's a deep, loud humm. I'd say a wheel bearing most likely.

Arty, No problem, it is hidden under there pretty good. It'll be much easier if you remove the intake and a few other hoses to see in there better.

Are you talking about the Coolant temp sensor? On the EJ22, stand on the passenger side of the car. Look where the motor meets the trans. The coolant temp sensor is located on the coolant passage under the intake manifold. Maybe my picture will help? Let us know if this doesn't clarify. I tried to label it as easy as possible.

If you can't get a hold of one, and really want to have one in there. At the hardware store by my house, a True Value. They have a bunch of roll pins in the hardware section. I've used them already on my GL's.