94Loyale

Well, you guys did a really nice job on it. I had seen it there before, but never got a chance to stop in. I figured it had to be someone on here,hahah, there aren't too many of us on this side of the country.

The other day I dropped a car off there for emissions, (I work for Deer Lake Auto Sales) and there was a really nice oldschool blue lifted GL. The guy at the counter said he also owns a Brat. Anybody on here? Just curious

Let me know how it goes, sounds like that could be it to me. They rarely throw a code when they are failing.

Especially because of the fact that it dies sometimes, it's intermittent, and you didn't mention whether a check engine light was present. I would swap out the MAF for a known good one.

All the tranny solenoids in the pan are interchangeable between a bunch of years from my experience. If you changed out the solenoid and its still not happy. I would start checking over the harness, make sure it didn't get crushed or broken anywhere. Pull the tranny connectors too at the top of the bell and make sure the connections are clean. Just trying to give ideas

Almost everytime I have one stud come out, and the other one stays in to make things more fun.

Gary, Those rear bushings are replaceable, but they are a huge pain in the rump roast to get out. The way to do them is with an air chisel, that's the only way I've found that works. And most of the time I need to knock all the rubber out so you just have the metal outer shell stuck in there. Then use a bit that will slice a line through the hole thing, and crinkle it in on itself.

No problem! Odd that they didn't stock those. Must only work on brand new toys :-p

Good job on finding the problem, timing belts are pretty easy to do, and there are a ton of threads that cover it in detail. The hardest thing you'll be doing is removing the timing covers lol. You'll find out what I mean when damn near all the captive nuts spin inside the cover. Or the bolt heads strip out. A lot of us run them with no timing covers, I ran 2 of my old ones like that, and they were regularly offroad and going through water and snow. By leaving them off you'll turn your next timing belt job into one you could do on the side of the road if need be. Edit, make sure you check/replace your tensioner pulleys, that could have been the screeching sound that you heard.

I know, that particular car had me thinking for a little. It was a very obvious miss, lol. On Board Diagnostics my rump roast.

For me it was the module, the one mounted to the firewall in the center. I mean, it's odd considering I only had the cam sensor code. But I had tried different cam and crank sensors, but still had the miss (no codes for that), tried a coil. Last I changed the ignitor and that took care of it.

Oddly enough. I just had one doing the same thing, but it was a 97 GT wagon. Had a pretty decent miss to it, and a Cam sensor code. After playing around with it for a little, I swapped out the ignitor and it took care of the problem. Might be worth a try if you have one laying around.

Welcome to the USMB You don't really need to test the brown ignition relay in this situation. If you can feel it click, you have ECU power, and a Check Engine light when you key up the ignition. If you have no spark coming out of the coil, and you are absolutely positive that it's a good working coil. Then the first step is to pull your distributor cap and turn over the motor, make sure that the rotor is spinning. If it spins, then put the cap back on, and while you have someone trying to start the car, probe the negative side of the coil to check for a pulse from the Crank Angle Sensor.

On the two prong side of the alt. The back prong has a bushing of sorts in it. You can either tap it in further or take it to the bench grinder and take some material off it (the bushing that is, not the bracket). This is what makes them a pain to put back on sometimes.

wow.... Well, most dealers will know exactly what you're talking about, it's very common. You need two 72351AC060, and one 72351AC051. As for all the other lights out. The switches for heated seats and cruise can be taken apart, and have a very small bulb in them. But I really don't know that they are replaceable. As for your mirrors, check the fuse first. The mirrors are on the same fuse as the cig lighter, and that's a common fuse for people to blow.

I have a long Snap On box end wrench with a 10 on one side and 12 on the other. It's the best one I found for them, and I do these everyday...literally. There is no offset, It's prob about 1ft long. With those bolts it's all about the first hit to break them loose. I make sure I have a firm grip on it with the wrench and the hit it hard the first time. Edit, for future reference, the drive plate you are talking about is called the flexplate

I think* That the bulbs from the dealer are about $4 a piece. But, chances are you won't have to replace them again. And it's much nicer being able to see!

Yes, there are small light bulbs back there, 3 of them. 2 are short, 1 is long. The only place I know of to get them is at a dealer. Even so, they are not expensive, and it's an easy job at that. The only thing to remember is to take off your heater control cable. Remove it on the bottom end of the cable on the heater box, on the passenger side of the center console, under where your feet go.

These fuel pumps don't prime when you turn the key on. They only power up when cranking. So you won't hear the pump at all when you turn the key on.

If it's moisture related, I'd figure on the plug wires. You can spray them with water while it's running to see if you can create a miss. That's what I would go for first.

Basically, take the cable out of the holder, but leave the hook end attached to the heaterbox lever. Set the temp control knob to hottest. Then move the lever on the heaterbox all the way to full hot. Then just snap the cable into it's holder.

CarolinaPilot, as already stated, there should be a black clip on the side of the heater box. But if you can't find it, or can't get it connected, it is cold outside! Just move the lever that the cable attaches to until you get hot air, at least until you can look for the clip to hook it up correctly.

That is one damn cool Justy. You obviously put a lot of work into it, and it shows. Good job! It's neat to see something different like this.

As Fairtax said, there really is not a whole lot out there for the Legacy's, weight savings wise. The 6spd is going to be money for sure. And just swapping the trans and rear for the gear ratio isn't going to net you anything worthwhile, same with the wheels honestly. If you are looking for lighter weight, def an impreza, or if you're in love with the feel of the 96-99 wagon like I am, a Legacy Brighton will be significantly lighter than your outback.

Most of the time, if the noise sounds like it's coming from the compressor and goes away when the ac clutch kicks in. It's the bearings in the compressor. I'd pull the ac belt off, then run it and see if the noise is gone completely. That way if the noise is gone, you narrow it down to the compressor or idler. Next, pull the idler and check the bearing, and spin the wheel on the compressor too, see if you can feel any roughness or noises.