94Loyale

I can't find a good picture, but if your front differential dipstick is on the right side like ours is. Look a couple inches further back on the transmission. It's black and has a 2 wire connector.

Since you're CE light comes on at the same time. Your problem is most likely the speed sensor in the trans. I would figure it's still on that side of the transmission, but I can't tell you for sure.

SubaruAlliance, no problem! And it's good you haven't needed to work on them yet

I replied in your other thread, but don't worry about the single wire, that one only feeds the gauge in the dash. The brown connector one is the sensor you may need, this one feeds the ecu, which in turn will power the fans. As for temp sensors in the radiator, that ended with the Loyales. All the EJ motors have the temp sensors located under the intake manifold on the coolant bypass.

The temp switch is located under the intake manifold on the passenger side of the motor. This is the best picture I could find to help out. I labeled the big stuff so you can identify where it is at. This is looking down on the motor from the passenger side fender. You'll need a deep 19mm to remove the sensor, it has the brown connector on it, and it's a pretty common failure. I'm not familiar with the scanner your using, but if you can check live data with it you can read the coolant temp and see if it's close to what it should be, or if it's reading way too cold.

Well, I was curious too, today I looked it up. We use the Snap-On ShopKey5 program, which I think all the times come from Mitchell's. For a B tech the allotted time was 4.1 hours. It took me around 5 hours for the whole job, which is honestly the best time I've done it in, everything actually went really smooth.

I shouldn't have even posted in this thread, a car came in this morning and I got stuck doing a heater core also, haha. '99 Outback.

I really doubt you'll find those anywhere else but the dealer

Do yourself a large favor though, soak the pinch bolt for the ball joint ahead of time with PB blaster. They have a habit of breaking, and they are not fun to drill out.

Both true statements by Ed and Miles, and very sound advice. My methods are not always legal, I'm a rebel without a cause.

You can do it two ways. One, undo the 12mm bolt that holds the low pressure line to the compressor real slowly until freon starts to come out. Then walk away for awhile, and leave your garage door open. If you are going to do it this way, replace the O-rings on the AC lines going into the compressor or you'll most likely have a leak there if you recharge it. I do it this way if the AC doesn't have much of a charge or is empty because it's a lot quicker. I work on these for a living. I'm now waiting for someone to b itch because it's environmentally unfriendly, hazardous, etc etc. Save your breath, I don't care. Yes, it can harm you, it's a gas under pressure, becareful. Or, you can move the compressor out of the way by removing the 4 bolts that hold the AC bracket in place. You'll need a 14mm swivel socket if you want to make it easier on yourself. Fold the whole setup up over the battery, and use a bungee cord or something similar to hold it out of the way. For a normal size bungee cord, I usually hook one end to the AC bracket and the other end to the coil spring on the driver side suspension, but a towel or something under it so you don't mess up your paint.

Sorry, didn't mean to underestimate you, I just start from the beginning. Glad you got it all figured out though! Good job.

Pull the entire glove compartment assembly out and look up, you'll see them.

And Durania, I'd much rather do any other job on the car except for the heater core. I've had to do 5 the whole time I've been working on Subaru's. Like I said, it's really a pretty easy job, just time consuming, and a pain in the rump roast to find all of the hidden bolts

Yes, a heater core failure nearly always will leave you with a nice coolant smell in the car, and a fogged up windshield when you turn the heater on.

If you are near reading, then you are probably pretty close to me. I'm about 5 minutes away from Pottsville.

Generally, they are in the same location. But the 3rd gens are really stuck inside the heater box. They have a bunch of screws and then you need to split the whole box in half (make sure you don't miss any screws, the box is easy to break). It's basically the same process except I think the 3rd gens are easier.

You're in for a fun job, it's not really difficult, just time consuming. The steering column doesn't need to be removed, just dropped. There are two 12mm bolts that hold it up under the dash. When you pull those two it will drop the column down. As for the AC, in order to get the heater box out containing the heater core, you have to pull the AC evaporator out. To do so you will need to remove the AC lines that travel through the firewall on the passengers side.

Positive, It'll bolt right on the block, but it's way different because of the large side covers.

Both front axles are interchangeable, left or right. However the turbo axles are different then the n/a axles (there are more splines on the tranny side on turbo axles) A lot of places seem to have the same listing for both turbo and non turbo, but that is incorrect. Can you go back to the parts store and give them the part number of the axle that actually fit? Edit- I believe the non turbo axles are 23 spline, and the turbo's are 25.

Don't waste your time digging into the switch just yet. They very rarely fail. You're jumping the gun, start with the simplest things first. Check all your fuses. If they are all good, then next step is to check for power on the trigger wire at the starter. Put a test light probe on the trigger wire (it's the small one that just pushes onto the starter with a black connector), have you're buddy try to start the car and see if you have power there when the key is moved to the start position.

+1 for the speedo issues John is talking about. On a '99, the cluster is your issue 75% of the time or more,lol. And also, the fix he is talking about has worked on all the clusters I've used it on. And that's quite a few That way, you keep your original cluster, and no messing around with trying to find another good working '99 cluster, since other years don't just plug in. Edit- John, I just read that you asked him to post on here if that fix works. Just so you know, I've done it on 11 clusters at work, and they all worked perfect afterwards. All 99's naturally.

"No way I can let that fly so now it's off with the flywheel pulley, change the belt (at least) and a swap with the 2.5 cover" Just so you know, the 2.5 center cover won't work on your 2.2 if that was the plan.

The OP has a an H6, it was the serpentine belt pulley that broke. Not the idler pulleys on a 4cyl. I have very rarely seen those coils fail. If your shop immediately takes a misfire code as an excuse to replace 3 coils. Then your first step is to find a shop that knows what they are doing. 1,3,5 are on the same side of the motor, so i'd check for a loose connection somewhere. As far as the o2 heater code, that will prob not cause any problems you are going to notice. The heater only effects how quickly the car will go into closed loop. I'm curious about the o2/fuel mix issues also?

Do you have normal temp on the gauge? If the car is running at normal temp, then I would say the heater control cable came off the heater box. The cable runs from your temp selector to the heater box. It most likely came off on the bottom. Look on the passenger side of the center console area (where your radio and controls are) under where the passengers feet go. You will see a cable, and it hooks to an arm on the heater box.