94Loyale

Normally, the only time these ever backfire through the intake is when the timing is off. I'd double check that belt. Also, on a 94, it may still have the two drains on either side of the gas tank. Look on the bottom of the tank. First thing you should always do with a no start is check for codes. It's quick and easy, let the car tell you what's wrong if it knows. Always do that before throwing parts at it.

Good choice! They are a ton of fun to drive. And that still sucks that they dropped the 5spd on the XT's. About 2 months ago I had an 04 XT in the shop, that I installed STI cams, turbo, and intake on. That thing was a riot to drive! Anyway though, the turbos will last you a long time if you keep up on the oil changes. I can't stress oil changes enough on these cars. And if you're running it hard, let it idle for a little before you shut it off. Maintenance is really no different, I see a bunch of these pass through the shop. And especially in stock form, they last a long time. Just like any other car, take care of it, and it will take care of you.

Yep, Like everyone else said, just turn it, angle it to pull it out. Just be easy with it. You don't want to bend the float arm. Same with going back in. It's an easy job, just takes some maneuvering.

Just a regular hand held scanner won't get you into the ABS diagnostics. A good Snap On scanner or something of the like might be able to but I'm not positive. My MT2500 won't. The only thing I can tell you for sure that works is the Subaru Select Monitor.

It's normal for the light to stay on for a second or two. And yes, the trans fluid is just as easy to change. On the driver side of the trans pan is a 17mm drain plug, just like the motor. I don't know what year you have, but there may be a filter on the side too. Change that out if there is. If you let it drain as much as you can you'll need to add about 5qts. Start at like 4.5qts, run it and check the level, add accordingly.

Def sounds like MAF to me, if they fail bad the motor won't idle. Other times the failure isn't as evident. Also check to make sure you have the big tube the goes from the IAC to the intake tube hooked up. It won't idle with that unhooked also. But if it idles with the MAF unplugged then I'd figure that's the problem. Swap another one on and see what happens. That's the wonderful part of OBD, when something actually fails it never shows up

Well, I can tell you from Actual experience with these gaskets that they work excellent. And it's not just my opinion, I've done countless headgasket jobs on Phase 1 and Phase 2's. And have never had a problem with these gaskets. It's not like I've done one or two in the backyard, this is my job. No offense or anything, just trying to give insight since I've been using them for years.

These are the only head gaskets I've ever used at work, besides OEM for turbo motors. They are excellent. I use them on phase 1 & 2 motors and have never had a problem. They are great quality, and are def a smart option for phase 1's.

The side of the balljoint, the lip that sticks out the bottom of the knuckle. If you get the air chisel on it, you can drive it downwards and out.

I don't know if you are still having an issue getting the balljoint itself out of the knuckle. But at work I always use an air chisel on it and come down on the side of it. That takes 9/10 of them right out.

If it's showing a code for the crank sensor, and you mentioned that you changed motors. The first thing I would do is make sure that your crank pulleys are the same. I'm talking about the teeth that stick out from the pulley for the cranks sensor to read from. Not the teeth the timing belt ride on. If you changed cranks sensors and still have that code, I would check that first.

Have you scanned it for codes yet? I hate to just blindly throw out ideas if there are codes to be read. But it could also be crank and cam sensors.

Well...If you want the real deal, go here http://subaru.spx.com/DisplayByCategory.aspx?id=6 Someone else may have another option too.

I'm guessing you don't have a code reader. The easiest thing for you to do, is just stop at Advanced Auto or Auto Zone, they'll read the codes for free and print them out for you. Once you get them printed out, post them on here and we'll help you out.

That's happened to me quite a few times before. It might take 20 or 30 pumps before it comes back, sometimes you'll have to bleed it after wards, but that's no big deal.

Work the clutch peddle with your hand for a while and it should build back up.

Whenever I do them, Before I even put a screwdriver on them. I take them out first with an impact driver. That always works for me, unless someone already butchered them. Then you can drill them out, or, I've used carbide burr drill bits with success too. They don't really make any sparks, and eat up the screw head pretty well.

I'm with Gary, The head gaskets won't just pour out coolant. I'd figure on something else. My first two guesses are a bad water pump and its coming out the weep holes, or the small bypass hose that goes into the side of the water pump.

If you are going to hit it with a sledge or bigger hammer from the inside....Don't aim for the rim...always go for the tire unless you're using a rubber mallot.

Agreed...the hose pulling air is wishful thinking

Nothing should cause the bulb not to light. It should come on when you have the key in the run position before you start the car. That's your self check for the light bulb.

Are you running the defrost or AC?

It won't matter as long is it doesn't interfere with anything. It's hard to explain, but I usually loop the spring through the inside of the shifter, and on the outside of the stay arm bracket. That explanation makes sense in my head...seriously...

I know I have done it a few times, make sure you didn't pull the cable out of the cruise control when you were doing the knock sensor. I always end up leaning on it and pulling it out. That usually makes for a really high idle though,lol

Rocking it around probably won't help. I always use a long beater screwdriver and drive it into the top. I've never had one that didn't come apart. Take it to the bench grinder and put a nice tip on it too. When you do get it separated, you will prob have to fight with that small plate the covers the bottom of the flywheel. Since you have the whole assembly jacked up, I'd recommend taking it off now, or pry down on it so it doesn't get caught up. BTW, auto or stick...did you pull your torque converter bolts out? Also, you should have a jackstand under the trans and the engine should not be on the hoist yet to separate the two. If you have the engine hoisted up it puts pressure on the joint and makes them difficult to break apart.