94Loyale

It's not under the hood. But the shouldered bolts for where the cat pipe meets the midpipe (where the exhaust donut is) work perfect

A stuck slide pin will give uneven pad wear. You'll see when you change these out Some of the slide pins have a rubber grommet kind of deal on the end of them (the end that goes inside the caliper holder) A lot of times when you remove the pin, that piece of rubber comes off and stays lodged in there. Making it so that you can't put the pin all the way back in without removing it. That's my idea at the moment, I just got home from work...13 hours of Subaru today,lol. Oh, and as for the squeek, check to make sure you didn't bend the rotor shield on the back so that it is contacting the rotor now. Otherwise, give it a few real hard stops and see if it still makes the noise.

I told you the fix

I've gone through this problem many times at work. It's pretty common. When you try to put gas in the car it will take a few cents, and the pump will shut off. And gas comes out the fill tube. The tank is not venting properly.

Hahaha...

You most likely don't need to drop the tank. Find all the vent lines under the rear of the car and make sure they are clear. Also, the thin metal lines that run under the intake get corrosion built up in them and often cause this problem. Take the small line off the fuel filter and blow through that, towards the intake, not the fuel filter.( with a blow gun hooked to an air compressor I mean) I can't think of how your lines get run, but if it goes directly to the purge solenoid, then you'll hear a pop when the vent line gets blown off it. If you can fill your tank now, you need a purge solenoid. Just get one from the junkyard, it's under the intake manifold, on the pass side, very near the coolant temp sensor location. That line might go right into the intake manifold also, just make sure you can blow through that line no problem.

If the brake system isn't bled correctly...then yes That will make for a pedal with extended travel, but will usually pump up nicely if you keep hitting the brake pedal.

Then undo the dogbone on the top, and your motor mount bolts (You most likely have everything else unhitched that would get in your way, but check first) and jack up the motor so you can clear the frame rails with the head bolt.

x2 Turbone. Honestly, you are not going to get anything impressive, or worth the money out of these motors N/A. I'm speaking from experience because I can't leave any car I have stock. But if you really want a little more out of it. The first step on any Subaru is a tune up :-) Then go from there if you feel that motivated.

You can actually remove that tapered spacer to install on your new balljoint. It's a pain to get off sometimes, you have to really work at it. I just noticed you said that one of the balljoints was missing though, so I guess this info doesn't help you. The dealer is the only place I know to get them...good luck! They def don't come with new STI balljoints.

Good call Gary, that is a bit easier. There is no other hole to go through, it does just bind between the flexplate and the hole. You're not going to hurt the flexplate though, don't worry about that.

About half way down on the sides of the bell (motor side). There are threaded holes on either side of the motor. I can't remember the size of the bolt off hand. But if you find one that fits (Pretty sure its a 14mm head, like the one that holds the ac compressor down near the dipstick) Thread it in till it stops and that will lock the flexplate/torque converter. You can also stick a strong screwdriver in there against the teeth on the torque converter and have someone hold it in there.

John, I'm sorry, I replied in the other thread and missed this one! That's exactly what I was trying to say though. Rather than having replaceable cam bearings. The cam journals are machined into the head with no bearings at all. I was thinking if the cam was starved and seized in the head. It's very likely to have damaged the surface the cam rides in. You can have it checked out. But if you have a head to throw on it instead, it's probably your best bet.

Also, check and make sure your fill tube isn't rotted. I had that on two of my Loyales.

I'm pretty sure they are non-existent in the US, if that means anything to you,lol.

Agreed with GD...and they never really leak either. All the other leaks just make it seem that way

Problem solved then

Agreed with everyone else about the sealant. You need to spread it around evenly. Something to always remember about that stuff is, whatever you see squeeze out when you tighten it down, there is an equal amount coming out on the inside. John, Did you disassemble that head yet? If the cam seized up, I'd be worried that the journals in the head will be messed up also. Of all the Subaru's I've worked on, I've never seen or heard of a cam seizing in the head...I'd inspect it pretty well before dropping it in the car. They are tough motors...but that's messed up

x2...never seen a ground wire attached to the radiator on the newer stuff.

Dave, you're correct. The oil pump is setup the same on all the EJ's. One O-Ring between the pump and the block, and no gasket, just sealant as Dave stated. And your crank seal of course.

Normally the axle will end up making a clicking sound, or a vibration at speed. Your problem sounds like torque bind. Do a search on that, there are a ton of threads about it. Most are in the New Gen forum, but the problem is still the same with your trans. And yes, there is a second dipstick for the front diff. Take a look on the passenger side of the trans.

x2 on plugs and wires. Go with the simple stuff first rather than injectors and everything else. They are simple motors, with simple problems 9x out of 10. NGK BKR6E11, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. P0420 isn't going to cause a running condition, so don't worry about that. Cyl 3 misfire is the easiest clue you can get. Check your connections on that plug wire. Make sure that plug well isn't loaded with oil from bad cam cover gaskets. And try changing the plugs. You can also switch that cylinders plug wire with a known good one from another cyl and see if the misfire follows that wire. Easy stuff first

You won't be able to remove the rear driveshaft and drive it because you'll lose all your trans fluid. Unless you are talking about removing the rear half of the shaft right behind the carrier bearing, I'd imagine that would work? I'm not positive whether you can do that or not. But it's not going to fix your problem. If you install the FWD fuse and still have torque bind, then the duty c is def shot. It's not too difficult of a job to do really. And it is absolutely worth it to change out the solenoid and the clutch plates at the same time, I don't care what anyone says. I don't enjoy doing a job twice. With a lift it's cake work

I've never seen these water pumps fail in that manner. When you're draining and filling the coolant system. How are you bleeding the air out? Or aren't you? Because that is a big problem right there and will def make the car overheat bad. 97, correct me if I'm wrong, but that would still have a 2.2 in? So you don't have the usual HG failures to watch out for. Although after all this you might.

GD is exactly right. On other car's alot of the fuel pump sound is muffled since the pump is usually located in the tank. But on our cars, it's located externally. So no fuel and a tank to quiet any of the sound it makes. All of mine were pretty audible also.