94Loyale

I'm surprised I'm the first to say this.... But pull one of the the timing covers and make sure the belt didn't go... It's a subaru, if it doesn't run, start diagnosing after you check the timing belt

^The above test depends on how bad the clutch is. The best way I found to test it is. Go out on the highway or a straight section of road. Get up to around 35 or 40mph,shift to 5th gear and try to accelerate. If your clutch is going out and slipping, you'll feel it for sure. Engine speed will race, but mph won't There are lots of ways to check it out I'm sure. Since you noticed the smell coming to a redlight though, I would almost agree with the other guys and figure it could just be your brakes. There doesn't have to be an issue with them to smell the brakes.

Rear engine plate, all 4 cam seals. Pull the oil pump off, and tighten up the screws with an impact driver. Replace the O-Ring behind the oil pump. and the front crank seal. Otherwise, I'd do plugs while it's out and cam cover gaskets. Then you should be leak free for a good while. Oh...and of course, head gaskets

It's not real common for the rear mains to leak. It is super common for the rear engine plate to leak...which is right next to the rear main :-\ If that is the problem, (assuming maybe since it's leaking onto the Y) The oil will run down the engine crossmember and right onto the exhaust. Otherwise, cam seals, oil pump, rocker covers.

I always use a pin, and stick it in the nozzle to point them where I want. I never had a problem with them staying though once I set them. Maybe someone else can help with that?

Cougar, you are right. The driver side timing belt does drive the distributor. It's not that often these blow HG's...non turbo's atleast. Before you start worrying about a motor, zero compression on one side is a pretty good start. Pull the timing belt covers off and see if one broke. It's not difficult, just a few 10mm's. And it's super common for this to happen, many of us run without timing covers for this reason Or, as stated, you can pull the disty cap off and see if the rotor is turning. If it isn't, then I'd say the driver side belt is off at the least.

+2 I get that all the time down here. Besides everything the guys already said...tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen....Until they are free. Be careful

Haha, yep! I'm not positive if they belong to different trannys for sure. It's just a trend I've been noticing

There are two different ones, I never noticed a difference in length though. I know I've interchanged them and it didn't make a difference. Most of the metal ones are on the manuals, and plastic on the automatics. I wouldn't worry though about which absorbs shock better. Who knows, It's nothing you're ever going to feel.

Agreed with the other guys, I've never seen the sensor plug into the radiator on any Legacy's. Loyales were like that, but I've never seen a Legacy have the sensor on the rad. All the EJ's have that sensor on the coolant passage below the intake.

They should have lock washers on them...Atleast the EJ's do

Exactly! And, as far as where to hit the tailshaft to knock it loose. I always remove the trans crossmember from the tail by taking out the 4 12's. You can see 2 of them in the picture of the broken mount,then hit it right there. Everything is a pain in the rump roast on the ground or jackstands. Hell, the gasket and knocking the tailshaft loose suck to do on a lift above your head! Haha

Whenever I do clutch packs, I always drain the trans fluid before hand. When you break the tailshaft loose you will still get some tranny fluid leaking out, but not a huge mess like if you didn't drain it. It really isn't a difficult job. When you get the bolts out for the tail, it's usually a pain to break loose. Try not to use a screwdriver to pry it open unless you absolutely have to. And if you do, pry on the top half as the fluid is in the bottom. You can normally break them loose with some real good shots from a rubber mallot, hit it as hard as you can. When you pull the tail off, make sure to reach in, and disconnect the duty C, before you pull it all the way out. While you are in there, I would replace the clutch pack (dealer), and the solenoid (dealer), since it has so many miles on it. And also the two gaskets under the duty C. Check the inner clutch basket (tranny side) also, I've seen quite a few break, where the shaft is welded on, this will cause a lack of 4wd. The hardest part of this job is removing the old gasket, haha. Could be the most time consuming too! When you put it back together, make sure you have the parking pawl positioned correctly if it falls out, and that you push the duty C connector inside and away from all moving parts. Afterwards, it usually takes right around 5 quarts of ATF for the job. Props to ericem on the pics, that's a perfect example of what you are going to be playing with. Edit, it's in the way of one of the bolts, so you can't forget it, but remember to remove the rear speed sensor on the passenger side of the tail shaft, and remember to reinstall it. :-) Good luck!

Agreed on cts, that's what it sounds like to me too.

Could be non-related to your engine work too. Filler neck? Just check around the passenger rear tire and fuel filler and make sure you don't smell it strong there. Just in case Edit, '04...I've never had a filler neck bad on one that new. So that probably isn't it, sorry! It was too early in the morning for me to catch the year of your car,haha.

One other quick thing, if the no one even left the engine run for 10 minutes, How did your mechanic purge the cooling system? Before you drive it, I'd make the system is purged properly. Or else you'll have other problems to worry about on your test drive.

I wouldn't bother putting any more parts or anything into it yet, before you try driving it. It's real common for these motors to make a lot of noise after they sit. They do sound nasty at first. Take it out, tach it up a few times. Normally within 10 miles of a good run, it should quiet down, If* it's the noise I think it is. If the motor actually is knocking....then you got sold a junk motor, and you needed a new one anyways. So you don't have anything to lose in taking it for a drive.

I was also figuring this, on lifter noise that is. This is a DOHC motor. If you start the motor after sitting for a while. They sound like complete garbage. Anyone that does not know Subaru's will figure the motor is going to explode. Take it out and give it a good run, see if it quiets down some. Even after idling for a while, they will quiet at idle, but still tick when revved up until you run them pretty hard. If it quiets down, its just lifter noise. Maybe the motor they swapped in had been sitting for a while?

He was referring to the thread in the tech archives on here. You could try changing the fluid and filter, but I have never have it fix the problem. Changing the fluid 3 times is just redundant and a waste of money. If it's torque binding, it's most likely the solenoid or the clutch pack. If you plan on keeping the car for a while, I would replace them both. The price of replacing both parts now is a lot cheaper than the labor to go back in and do it all again. I do these pretty often, and I don't know about everyone else, but I hate doing a job twice. Just my two cents..

Know this all too well,haha. Anyway though, I'd check to see if the thermostat has been taken out too. A new one is always good to have. Something else to keep in mind is. The coolant temp sensor we are talking about supplies temp info to the ecu, to help control the mixture. The coolant temp sender supplies the info to the gauge. They are two diff ones. The one we want you to replace has nothing to do with what your gauge reads inside the car.

Yes, if you are asking if I would sell you mine. You probably don't want it. And GD is right about the dealership, I don't know where else you would find one.

Agreed, def sounds like rotors to me.

Good! Glad to hear it fixed your problem! And they are def a pain to get to,haha. Good job.

Well, I do have a good one on my GL10 parts car. But it looks a little different. Basically where the cable attaches. I didn't get a good enough look at it to be positive. Maybe I'll check it out tonight before the snow! I don't care if it works, I just don't want it to leak Thanks for the advice guys!

Glad we all agree That's the only time I've had the cooling fans run constantly is when there is an issue with the CTS. As the other guys said, that would explain the hard starting if the sensor is giving a false reading, or is disconnected and not giving an input to the ECU at all.