94Loyale

Sounds kinda like the coolant temp switch to me. See what everyone else thinks though.

Hey guys. On the Brat I recently picked up, the hillholder is leaking. Not from any of the lines, but the unit itself. Anyone just remove it from the system and tee the lines together? I'd figure that would work just fine, but I wanted to see if anyone else did it. I searched around, but couldn't find anything that helped. Or does anyone have a non-leaking hillholder from a Brat they would like to sell me?

Haha, play nice? To the OP, too bad you're so far away or I'd give you a hand! It just sounds like rotors to me. All you'll need to do this yourself is a 14mm for the caliper bolt, and a 17mm for the caliper holder, and a 19mm for the lugs. It's not a difficult job at all. Let us know if you run into any problems, or anything you have a question on.

$950 is rape for that amount of work,lol. Some places just make me laugh. Sounds like warped rotors to me. However they are not held on by any kind of nut. The only thing that holds them on is the brake caliper holder (two 17mm's). I wouldn't figure on calipers unless they are leaking, I haven't had to replace one for any other reasons. If you take it all apart, make sure your caliper sliders are free, and the clean the dirt off of the thin metal pieces your brake pads slide on.

They don't have a high failure rate, but within the past 4 weeks I replaced 3 of them. So they do go, just not too often. There is nothing wrong with a good used rack though, that's what I would do to. If you replaced the pump and you still have rough spots in the steering, then I'd almost say for sure that it's your rack. The universals on the newer models don't go that often, I've never replaced one, just the older Legacy's.

No, if the driver side belt went, you would not have spark. The crank angle sensor is built into the distributor. Since the distributor won't spin if the belt is broken, you'll have no signal from the CAS. This means no spark.

You need to make sure you get the cable seated correctly in the speedo drive (end of the cable into the slot inside the drive). Or you'll shear off another one trying it. Also, don't pull too hard on the cable, it's really easy to pull it off the back of the speedometer.

If it just quit, I would def make sure the timing belt didn't go. Just pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is turning. Then go from there.

Yes, I've seen them with cracks too. But they always seem to leak. I can't stand doing a job twice. I'm not saying resealing the plastic ones is wrong. It's just worth it to me to know I won't have a leak after installing a metal plate. I've never had anyone complain, so I just replace them. :-)

Haha, yep, from Subaru they are around that much. For the metal ones. I throw away all the plastic ones that used to come on them. They aren't worth a damn.

Haha, yea, they can be hard to get out sometimes. You just need to work it back and forth while pulling out on it.

It would def be cost effective to have all the seals done at once, while the motor is out. And maybe the timing belt if you are due? I have never actually seen an oil pan leak. But when the oil pump and or separator plate leak, it looks like an oil pan.

No, they look about the same. But the connector is a little different.

Most of the time I see them bend when someone is in there doing brakes. They bend so easily, it doesn't take much force. I'd imagine a rock or something getting run over could do the same thing.

I was just about to suggest this The shield for the rotor is really easy to bend. Happens all the time.

You just had all that work done to the car. A lot of hoses and parts get disturbed in the process. Don't waste your money blindly replacing parts. You have a coolant leak somewhere. So find the leak. Is this Oley in PA? If so, you aren't far from me. PM and I'll pressurize the coolant system and we'll find the leak. That should be your first step.

Your not going to hurt anything taking it out. Just wiggle it out. But use your prybar or something to keep the TC seated on the tranny. Otherwise you'll have a hell of a mess to clean up.

It is very odd for the gasket to just start leaking. Is it def the water pump? Or could it be the little rubber hose above it? I've had them go a few times, and it looks like the water pump is leaking. Just a suggestion.

Haha, you laugh, but he's not kidding It'll smoke like a freight train, maybe worse, haha, till it's all burned out. *Not for use in residential areas

It's very easy to locate. Find where the transmission bolts to the motor. On the top, will be a rubber plug. Stand on the passenger side, find the throttle body, and look down below it. It's right there. As for the radiator. If you are doing the water pump, then pull the radiator out. Esp if this is your first time. The last thing you want is to have to buy a radiator because you accidently hit it with a tool, it happens. Your going to drain the coolant to do the water pump anyway, so you have nothing to lose. Leave the fans on the radiator and just unplug them. Pull your transmission lines off, and the two 12 mm bolts on the top that secure the rad, remove the upper radiator hose. For the bottom hose, make things easy on yourself, and just remove the two 10mm bolts on the thermostat housing. Replace your thermostat and rubber gasket too since you have it apart. They are cheap, and only use an OEM Subaru. When you pull the thermostat housing, have a big pan underneath to catch the coolant, it's messy. Pull one of the 10mm bolts out first, then slowly remove the second while the coolant drains. Then grab the thermostat with a pair of pliers and pull it down. This will make a mess, that's why you have the big pan. Edit... Almost forgot, once it's all unhooked. Carefully lift it out the top And set it somewhere that it's not going to get kicked or walked into. They are not cheap!

Welcome to the forum! From Orwigsburg, Schuylkill County It is cool to see there are some Subaru guys from our area!

Lack of oil changes will kill them for sure. And always let the car idle for a little while before you shut off the engine. Especially after you run it hard.

It sounds like a bad slave to me. And yes, if you would like to bleed the hydraulic clutch. You bleed it from the nipple on the slave. Just like you are bleeding brakes. If you put a new one on. The first couple times you try to pump it, you will have to lift it off the floor by hand.

When you set the key to the run position, does your check engine light come on? If not, then look under the panel where the steering column is. Find the ECU and unbolt it. Should be 3, 12mm nuts. Unplug it and move it out of your way. Above where the ECU was should be a Brown plastic relay looking thing. You might have to look around for it. This may be your problem if your CE light does not come on, if it does, disregard anything I'm saying. When you find it, hook the ECU back up, and turn the key to the run postion. You should feel that relay click. Let me know what happens.

The rust is horrible around here. Last week at work, I'd say about 3 cars I had to remove the sliders in the method I was talking about, just seized up that bad. :-\