94Loyale

Reveeen is right, the fronts are really easy to do. As long as everything goes well Since your in the same area as I am, I know the elements never really let anything go easy. So if you want to keep the car on the road, and make sure it doesn't have any downtime, then another hub is a good idea. Providing you can get it really cheap. But honestly, with the front, you should be able to get it done quickly. I've done them on my previous GL's also. But, if your planning on keeping the car, spend the extra couple bucks for the good bearings, and grease them up good!

Ross, sounds like a good plan for him. That way he can check both probable causes at one time. Good call

Duncan, your only in Allentown right? EZ Pull has a ton of old subarus, thats where I find alot of my parts too! http://www.joesusedautoparts.com/EZPull.html It's reallly easy to get to, for you, you might be best off going out 309, go over the mountain, and turn left onto 895. Its a couple miles then out 895, its behind Joes Used Auto Parts, you can't miss it. But most likely, they have all that stuff there right now.

Pretty easy to check if thats it. The distributors are simple to pull, just check for shaft play.

Merry Christmas guys! Thanks for the new background Zap

Since the tach is jumping around also, maybe the distributor shaft bushings? Hopefully GeneralDisorder will chime in, I think he had the same thing happen to his car. I'd think if the shaft has alot of play it would end up causing a misfire.

I don't mind at all Our shop is closed between Xmas and New Years, so I've got all week to do nothing. When I grab them, I'll let you know!

Well, hopefully this week I'll head up to the junkyard and pull an Ignition relay for my car. While I'm up there I'll grab a spare or two. If you want to try one, I'd be more than happy to just mail one down to you, after I make sure it works in my car.

Damn, sorry to hear you went through all that. But nice work on getting it done!

Well, if it helps at all, here's the symptoms I had when my Ignition Relay went bad. On quite a few occasions, when I would try to start the car, it wouldn't fire up. It would take a few on,off,on,off with the key until it would start. Then while driving, the engine would just die completely, out of no where, and then not start. Then I would have to do the same thing to get it running. Then, eventually, it would not start at all. Keep in mind, when the car was running, it was perfect, but sometimes it would die, and when you pushed the clutch in, it would idle, and then drive fine again. It took me a while to figure out, but with Cougar's expert advice on electronics, I found the problem to be the ignition relay. I was not able to find it at any parts stores around here, but it is on http://www.rockauto.com for like $30. Its brown, and has 6 pins, located above the ecu. Once you pull the ecu down, you can look up and see it, its up there pretty good,haha. But your problems seem alot like mine. Maybe just go to a junkyard and grab one or two. They don't go bad very often.

I would check for any codes from the ECU and see what you get. But otherwise, possibly a dirty IAC I'd think. You can take it off and clean it really good, and see if that helps. Edit- Maybe its a CTS (coolant temp switch) issue also, since its temperature related. It should have two wires going to it, and is located next to the thermostat housing. The connections on these often get corroded. Before replacing that one (I think its pricey) try and clean the connections on it.

Atleast your trunk can hold water

I've heard of aftermarket coils having issues on these cars. Definitely get an OEM coil, I had gotten one from Advanced Auto that works perfect, stock replacement. Also, when you install the new coil, make sure that the coil bracket is grounded well. Clean everything up real good or it won't spark at all.

Dave, thats a real cool idea, good suggestion!

bheinen74, you can probably get it on a few different websites. But here is one, http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=1156

haha, Yes, definately get some kind of penetrating oil on there. But let me tell you, besides spraying in where the roll pin goes, its a pain to get anything where the splines are. What you can try is, since your replacing the axle anyway, is to maul that metal shield cup on the end of the axle. If you pry that back, or destroy it, you might be able to get some more penetrator in there on the splines.

I couldn't get mine off the diff either. I won't bother telling you to knock the pin out since you got the other side off. But if it won't pry off, I would try heating it up. It might be enough to expand the axle and break some of the rust free thats probably holding the splines together.

First subie I broke, was my 1990 Loyale. I was 18 and was mudding out on my buddies farm with a couple trucks. They were all amazed how well that little Subaru went through the mud. It only stopped when the ruts got too deep. I went hammer down through some rough stuff, and the car stalled halfway through. Looked under the car and I somehow ripped the fuel pump assembly off of its little shelf. Dragged it into the barn and ziptied the fuel pump and shelf back onto the car. Drove for another couple months

Gloyale, your right on 94 being the last year for part time. I'm the last of the breed

Major, Glad it worked out for you!

I had a trick when I just did my rear wheel bearing. My axle wouldn't budge off the diff, but would slide off the stub shaft in the hub. I took the bottom bolt out of the coilover, but couldn't push down enough and pull the axle out at the same time. So I took the stock Subaru jack, the skinny one, and put it in between the body of the car and the control arm. And used the jack to push the control arm down, worked perfect for me, and my axle slid right off Give it a try!

Every time I had a bad wheel bearing, I heard it. Try driving on a bumpy road or driveway, that's when my bad balljoint makes noise I'd replace it if the PO hadn't broken the bolt that clamps the balljoint...

Also, Gary had suggested about taking it somewhere to get it done. It's very easy to get to the bearings (besides complications like rust and stuck bolts). But if you don't feel comfortable doing it. You could save yourself alot of money by pulling the control arm/hub yourself. Once you get the drum and axle shaft off, its 4 bolts and a brake line to remove. Then you could take it almost anywhere that has a press to remove the old outer bearing race and install the new one. I got lucky though (for once during this job) and was able to drift out the old race.

Gary, I wanted to say thanks for your advice on the wheel bearings on my car. I do know where there are a whole mess of hub/control arms within 10 minutes of me if you need one. I picked mine up on saturday from a local place, and just had them pull it because I didn't feel like doing it twice. I got everything for $30, hub,control arm, and drum assembly. A word of advice though, if your going to do them yourself, buy the special socket for removing the ring nut Don't be like me.

Hell, if you need a hand, you can't be too far away from me. I'd be more than happy to help you out.