cj7135

I'm having a real dilemma here. My OBW rides very nicely, and is cosmetically in very decent shape (considering it has 392,000 on it). One job i've never tried is changing the gas tank. It's been leaking for a while now when i fill it over 1/2, and I've done some tests to figure out where from. it's leaking from the seam halfway down the tank. I was fine with that, since I picked this car up for 100$ (needed a headgasket but I threw an EJ22 in there and away she went). I was under there trying to change my wheel bearing in a very difficult manner (since the lateral links are seized tight) and noticed one of the straps have fallen off I've been able to hide the gas leak from the authorities so far, but I don't need my gas tank falling out while I'm driving. I need to know this: 1. How to change the tank (I've searched the forums for hours but found nothing that tells me which parts to remove, what order to remove them in, etc). I'm hoping somebody will tell me that it's not that bad of a job, since I have just basic tools (impact, socket set, screw drivers, etc). 2. Can the rear differential be removed without removing the CV axles first? (As i said, my lateral link bolts are seized, and will probably remain that way). 3. If, upon further investigation, the fuel lines are rotten, how hard are they to change? I noticed all 3 fuel lines are held on with little clamps, so I am wondering if it's too hard to replace the lines can I just put a long hose with a clamp to where the lines are good? I'm hoping somebody will be able to help me out, as I'm currently working with a very tight budget and very little tools/space. Thanks!

Are you kidding me? You have some kinda shares in this engine design? The EJ25D is the worst engine for reliability in Subaru has ever made. Also, any Subaru mechanic (and I mean a mechanic that works on Subarus, not the dealership mechanics as I've seen a lot of them that dont know $hit) would tell you that those are symptoms of INTERNAL HG failure. That's why you're leaking oil, and that's also why you can't see the coolant leaking (internally). If my wheel is vibrating, then i get a flat tire, then i notice the tire's bald, then i notice a bulge in it, I'm not going to say to the tire people "How can you condemn a tire so quickly?" They'd tell you to get out of their shop, and I think I would tell you the same on this topic. Agreed and Agreed. Hard to believe all this madness wasn't stopped earlier. What General Disorder is saying is the right answer, go with that.

Can anybody tell me why the TC is so hard to deal with? I've never touched one (too afraid to), but probably will have to in the near future. I just can't understand why it wouldn't go in without issue, is there not a master spline? And if there is then how come you can't just spin and push until it slips in? I know that's what GD said to do, but why would it take 10 mins?

I just use a socket on a breaker bar or big ratchet to hold the crank from the bolt that holds on the pulley. Just take out a bolt, spin the crank clockwise, take out another bolt, etc. Should be easy enough, especially since you should take out the rad to pull the motor anyways. As said before, you don't want to drop any of the flexplate bolts but I've done more than a few of these, and as long as you're not the kinda person that rushes and fumbles with everything you wont have a problem. I also just used a normal ratchet and socket to remove the flexplate bolts.

Hey, I'm running 215/70/15 on my 97 OBW right now. Not sure about 2000, but I run them fine with no rubbing and extra clearance to spare.

Yes, I would say timing belt tensioner is your first stop to check. If you remove the timing belt cover (fairly easy job), and run the engine, check if the belt is "jumping." Also try pushing down on the belt when the engine is not running, look at the tensioner and see if it's moving, if it is it's probably bad. I believe most of the 99 Outbacks had the EJ25D, and since you said the headgaskets were done i'm assuming they probably went, which may have overheated the engine (since people tend to continue driving them). If this happened it's quite possible it's a rod. If you're mechanically inclined, I would check the timing belt tensioner. If you can confirm (either yourself or by another mechanic) that it's NOT a rod, then like was said before do a complete timing belt job, and replace the idlers, tensioner, and water pump. If the gaskets were done and the rods aren't knocking, this would be a worthwhile investment. Finally, if it is a rod, just let it blow up. When you need a new engine, swap an EJ22 in there which you can find pretty cheap, it will plug and play without issue, and it will go forever.

For anybody else that comes across this and reads it, I can confirm (that's 2 confirmed cases now) that these tires are fine. I got a lot more ground clearance, and it does seem to be geared better. I was a little worried because mine were new, but no rubbing issues whatsoever. Anybody that's wanting new tires for their OBW, i'd say go ahead with this size, GREAT investment!

10-4 on that. Always good to clarify. Knowledge is power! Thanks

Not really, fluid goes black from being used. It does mean that it's time to change the fluid, but the colour of the fluid has nothing to do with the health of the differential. I agree with Nickolai, U-Joints make the whole car feel like it's about to explode. The only way to tell for sure if your differential is good is to open it up and have a poke around in there. Even then you need a pretty good idea of what you're looking for. IMHO, I think you should change the u-joints and do an oil change on your diffs. If you still have problems then you can start worrying. But unless it's howling extremely loud or making a loud whining noise, I would suggest its good for a lest the foreseeable future.

So would it be safe to say that a failed coolant temperature sensor can be diagnosed with the temperature gauge?

Lol, a bad pump will sometimes still pump fuel, but lose pressure. Fuel pump problems are usually diagnosed audibly. I'd still try the lucas fuel treatment and see if it fixes the problem. If you're good for a month or two, look into a new fuel pump/filter.

If u have an extended powertrain warranty, then just tell the dealership and let them do whatever they figure they have to (for free of course). If not, I would wait and see if it happens again. Another remedy that is free is to do 5 tight circles to the right, and five tight circles to the left immediately afterward (on dry pavement). That flushes the fluid between the clutch packs. If it happens again, I would suggest a tranny service from the dealer. The duty C is in the rear of the transmission, and is accessible without removing the entire trans, but still a pretty lengthy job as the tail has to be disassembled. The good news is it's a known issue, and it won't kill the vehicle. Absolute worst case scenario the Duty C is an easier and cheaper job than a tranny, but I'd say you have at least another 200,000 before you have trouble as long as the tires are the same size. ALWAYS make sure the tires are the same, that's what causes this problem.

Haha agreed there. Our 2010 Impreza 2.5i is Auto trans. My 96 Legacy and 99 Forester (winter beater and bush buggy) are quite fun manual tho. I like the older MT's, I don't have any experience with the new ones other than a test drive. I liked it, but we decided on the auto for comfort, and like you said, lack of clutch changes since its primarily an in-town car.

Good to know, next time I need one I'll be going with ebay. They're only 100-150$ on there, not a bad deal.

Hey, i've got almost 400,000km on my outback, which is about the same mileage as yours. The things I would check for are the same as above (timing belt, clutch, etc). Check for overheating and make sure the heater transfers heat (not for your pleasure but thats a test for the water pump and head gasket). My bet is that there are a lot more sensors throwing codes than the exhaust. When you're shifting the tranny make sure the synchros aren't worn (that you can pull it into gear quick enough without completely grinding it.) But a small *Click* or *Clunk* is normal. Listen to the rear end at highway speed and make sure there's no howls (either diff or wheel bearing). Bottom line is this: If you want to buy a high-mileage car, plan on buying parts. You can plan on doing the rear wheel bearings, the gas tank (especially if they salt your roads), differential and transmission oil changes, and exhaust work. Listen to the engine and make sure there's no knocking or very loud clicking (a little tick is ok). I would suggest fixing your exhaust, as it's a pretty simple pipe repair, not worth waiting for it to get worse. I wouldn't invest in it if you don't want to do some maintenance. Mine is in very good condition, but all the wheel bearings, struts, brakes, stabilizer links and bushings, and front end has all been changed. That's an easy 3,000$ right there at a shop, and that's if you dont have any engine troubles. I did all my own work, and I just rung in at a little over 1000$ for a full maintenance. Also, i'm running an auto in my OBW, the manual trannys usually go before 300,000 miles so I would ask if it's been changed, and if not ask yourself if you're willing to change it. A test drive should tell you, make sure theres' no clunks or bangs and the steering doesn't shake. As long as it takes the bumps ok, and the underbody isn't completely rusted, and the engine and tranny run smooth, I would say 1300$ if adequate, maybe 1800 in good shape. Then i would plan on doing all fluids for about another 100$ on your own or 200$ at a shop.