crazyeric

so the other day i accidently broke in half the only key in existance to my 90 legacy sedan. Whats more is that when the key broke the other half was lost somewhere, i dont think its in the ignition because the other half of the key wont go in. so im guessing that its on the ground somewhere. ANYWAY today i went out there and busted open the steering collumn and tried to see if i could just pull the ignition and replace it with a boneyard one. Unfortunately i have insufficient tools and cant get to some of those hard to reach screws. Its just my pizza delivery beater car so i was thinking of rigging up some starter button, but the steering wheel is locked so i think ill need to break the pins. How hard is it to replace the igniton, or is it just easier to hotwire it and bust the collumn? is there some kind of trick to unlock the steering collum or should i be asking this question on the car stealing message board? This car is strictly my beater car, its got almost 200k and if it makes it to next summer i will be very surprised, so cosmetically i dont care if im driving around with no plastic on the collum and a pushbutton starter. Thanks alot, Eric.

most major gas stations have at least ONE diesel pump

i also tried both OEM and aftermarket stats, but neither worked.

i had a similar problem with my 90 legacy. does it only overheat when your driving it? if so try taking the thermostat out, it'll take a while to heat up but it wont overheat!

oh well, it was worth a shot!

my 99 OBW has the big ridiculous non-functional hood scoop. I was looking at the hood, and theres a plasic plate with screws that could be removed, opening up the scoop. Then i got to thinking how i could either modify my airbox or find a different airbox thats more or less open at the top allowing air to be forced into the throttle body. Has anyone tried this out? I know id have to relocate my MAF sensor. and someone on another board told me that the 99 model MAF is kind of flimsy. I think i would gain a few horses by doing this mod, also it would allow cooler air to be forced in, rather than warm engine-compartment air just being sucked in by the TB. Has anyone tried this or know how i might be able to go about it or am i just wasting my time? Thanks alot, Eric.

bump

taking it for a pressure test and exhaust gas test monday, it has a 2 month\2500 mile warranty, but the dealer is 75 miles away so i could be in for some driving\begging\bus taking. At this point all i can do is hope. Also, does anyone know the full details of a lemon law? The state i purchased it in does have a lemon law, i just dont know the stipulations. how much do pressure\compression tests usually run?

just got my 99 outback sport today, after about a 75 mile drive home i pop the hood and notice some coolant on the plastic piece under the engine, then i notice little bubbles in the reservior. not enough to make it foam but a steady stream of bubbles. I checked the lower rad hose because that seems to be where its coming from and it looked alright, could it just be a bad clamp or hose or does my new car likely have a headgasket issue. Its a 2.2 with 74k, i didnt notice any sludge in the tank, and the res tank was almost completely full as well the temp guage was fine the whole ride, its just that leaking coolant on my "new" car thats making me scratch my head.

autozone has generic mufflers you can just weld onto your pipes for like 40 bucks.

Tomorrow im going to look at a 99 imprezza outback sport. this wil be my third subaru, but my first subaru made after 1990. Its got 74k 5-spd 2.2 i wanted something with a 2.5 but after reading some of the posts about problems with the 2.5 i decided to stay away. Currently i have a (tired) 90 legacy with a 2.2 and 175k, i assume the outback will have some more kick than my 14 year old legacy. Anything i should look for in particular, this is going to be my first experiance buying from a dealer, the price is right and the dealer claims to do a 35-point inspection to all their pre-owneds, and its under warranty, though i dont know the stipulations of the warranty. Any good advice would be appreciated, and wish me luck.

so did the moose walk away? hes probably got a few hundred pounds or so on your wrx

i tried with both thermostats, the stock one that was in there and the cheap one from napa, both overheated, been driving it with no therm for 5 days or so and it doesnt give many problems except for a check engine light every now and then, ill just run it till i really need heat.

removed the thermostat today and left the rubber gasket as a seal. Temp guage doesnt get any more than a little under halfway. The check engine light came on but went off after a few minutes. There were a few bubbles in the reservior but they went away when i loosened the vent screw. Also coolant bubbles out of the vent screw when i loosen it. How long would it be safe to go without a thermostat for?

i tried to reply on the old board but it wouldnt let me, anyway.. i drove it like 5 miles and when i got to where i was going smoke was pouring out of the hood and when i popped it there was lots of steam coming out of a 4 inch crack in the plastic side of the radiator. I was thinking of running it without a thermostat to see if that would work but i dont have time right now to try it out, well thanks again, Eric.

i have a 1990 subaru legacy and if I start it up and just let it run it will be fine, but when I start driving it, after about a half mile the temp guage will start to go up and if i pull over and pop the hood, the rad. hose is rock-hard from pressure which led me to believe a problem with the thermostat. I put a new thermostat in and im having the same problem, i tried burping the radiator with the vent plug on the passanger side and just ended up getting hot coolant sprayed all over me. Has anyone had this problem or maybe know whats going wrong, it just seems like when i start driving none of the coolant is getting through the engine. Thanks alot, Eric.