lostinthe202

Ha, if a tree falls in the woods and no hipsters are around to hear it fall, does it still sound cool?

egads, that's quite the write up. I'm not getting too fancy with this. If I break down, I break down, I get towed, i fix it. Won't do a 2.2 swap, no need, the 2.5 single cam is a good engine if treated right and having driven both, I like the extra power of the 2.5. I appreciate you taking the time to type all that out, and it's good info for the kids learning how to wrench, whether or not you're right, still some data for the database. Part of why I love this board, I've learned tons here.

Yeah, always seemed to me that impact wrenches are really "impacting" in both directions, loose and knocking about are kind of their thing. That said, i've never used one regularly, I'm pretty much analog when it comes to the tools. Wow that was an obnoxiously hipster thing to say, eh?

Yeah, i've struggled with this in the past. Once while job searching several years ago, I came across a job ad on Craig's List looking for people to write Yelp reviews. I reported it to you Yelp's customer service email and got a reply back that basically said, "yeah, we know, we try to weed those out." Kind of opened my eyes and reminded me not to believe everything I read on the internet. That said, not ALL reviews are BS. I try to look for language that any given review was written by a human giving their honest opinion on a product, but it can be tough to pick those out. On the cooling issue, exchanged the stat i got from Napa for a Wix one (thx for reminding me about that brand rocketman!) and I've ziptied the overflow tube and put some silicone around the tube where it enters the overflow tank. The cap has a nice, positive click when closing so I'm calling that good. Again, haven't driven it enough to know if any of those things made a difference. But might not matter any way, looks like Rick (General Disorder) and I are going to do some horse-trading which will leave me with a rebuilt 2.5 and something neat for all the performance builder kids out there.

Huh, hadn't thought about reviews for products, sorta assumed that's a game that's rigged. On the brands, that's hard to tell also as any given brand will shift around their production, so who really knows where it's being made and under what tolerances. It's totally possible I have a coolant leak. I've zip-tied the overflow tank hose, but haven't driven it enough to know if it made a difference. I'll look into the UV die, don't know anything about that Will-

Yeah, Rockauto stuff gets to me in a couple of days, but I have a hard time distinguishing quality parts from expensive parts. I subscribe to the "you get what you pay for rule" but I don't really know how to tell the difference

I'll check it out, thanks! Will- bowie fan? Er, wait, Costello?

Phone up a dealer and ask, it's possible the wiring is there, just needs some bits, then do it yourself.

I'll check it when I next head out. It's got green coolant in there now, no idea what kind, or the last time it was changed, so probably due. So the subaru stuff eh? On the heater core, I'm not sure what to think, I get immediate heat and it drops the engine temp immediately if I turn it on full blast, does that tell me that it's not clogged? As for the stat, I'll return this one I got from Napa, no jiggle pin, and just get one from the dealer which I was hoping to avoid since it's 80 miles round trip to get it, maybe just get one online and wait it out. On the avatar, yep, cracks me up too. As a machinist, I do trig all the time and I sometimes soooo want to give that answer!

I do have an infrared heat gun, maybe I'll let the soob idle while I work on the bike and see what temp the exhaust manifold gets up to

Hmm. I'm not sure on the history of the thermostat, I know the HGs were done at around 150-175k or so and that the system hasn't been cracked for about two years. But the fans come on at idle and low speeds all the time, my '96 OBW was like that, so was my '99 forester, just figured that was normal. Well, the thermostat is a cheap fix, so I'll do that first. I guess also bleed the system to make sure air isn't a factor. What's that procedure again? Park on a slope, run until the fans cycle with the rad cap off? Something along those lines.

I wouldn't bother going to the dealer. They had to get all the lugs off to rotate your tires, if there was more than two damaged, they would have told you so. FYI, it seems you've posted this twice, might want to delete the other one Will-

Good info on the temp range, I figured it had something like that behavior since it normally never moves once warmed up, at least not under casual perception, dame as any car/truck I've ever owned. I know the fan replacement is easy, just if I can replace the brushes and dust the commutator with some scotch-brite, cheaper solution, keeps from buying something I wouldn't have to, etc. When I get replacements, I"ll tear the old ones apart, see what they look like, cause that what kids that used to take apart VCRs for fun do, Thanks!

I'll see if I can get my hands on a scanner and take a peak. Zero bubbles in the overflow tank, no black sludge, no exhaust smell. The gauge usually sits at about eight o'clock. When it starts to overheat it creeps up to about 9:30. I haven't waited to see if it would keep going, I turn on the heater full blast to bring it back down. I tried this, but I didn't hear anything, but the wind was howling pretty good so I could have easily missed it. I'll try again when things quiet down This is my strongest suspicion. Today, I saw the gauge going up, but I'm not sure for how long it had been rising. I was on a 25mph road and I pulled over as soon as I saw it and killed the radio to listen for the fans. They were running, but immediately the temp dropped to normal, so I don't know if they were slow to come on and I just happened to come on before I was able to pull over and listen or if they were running the whole time and it's something else. Are the motors serviceable? Can I just get new brushes and put them in like I do on my router? Thanks for the help everyone!

@1LuckyTexan The temp has crept up at highway speed and 25mph speeds. The overflow level drops along with the tank level, that is, I have to add to both when I add. But again, this last time it overheated, levels in both the overflow and the tank were fine. I didn't check for an air bubble at the bleeder, but again the system hasn't been cracked open for a couple of years The cap is fairly recent, but good idea on the zip ties @DaveT I never check the level by the coolant tank, I always pull the rad cap and add if I don't see anything. I did squeeze the upper and lower hoses to see if I got/heard bubbles to no effect. Not sure what you mean by "the jiggle pin" Thanks fellas!

Heya Fairtax! How ya been? That's just it tho, I'm overheating, but this time the coolant level was fine. But the other two times this happened, the coolant was low. So can the coolant appear full, but still be low? I can't imagine an air bubble as the system hasn't been cracked by anyone in over a year

2000 Legacy wagon 224k Hiya folks! How's everybody's evening? So, I've been slightly overheating every so often, like about every two months. I'll check coolant and it's about a quart low, so I add, no more overheating. Did this twice. In prep for taking into the shop for an unrelated reason I thought I'd have my cooling system pressure tested to see if a leak could be identified. The HGs were done around 150k with the updated gaskets and coolant additive so I don't really suspect them, but to be safe, I bought a new coolant overflow and checked for black sludge and exhaust smell after about a few days (this was just a few days ago) and it's free and clear. So today on my way home today, driving residential speeds, I saw the gauge start to creep up again. I had topped off the coolant when I changed the bottle so my first thought is that wherever the leak is, it's gotten worse. But when I get home and let the car cool, the level is still at the top, so not a leak, something else. I know the thermostat is opening and the water pump is pumping because I was able to bring the temp back to normal by turning on the heat full blast, so coolant is flowing through the system. This suggests to me something with the fans. I know they work because I got them to cycle on, but I've had intermittent fan behavior in the past with different vehicles, so I know it's possible. Question, Can the fans themselves be intermittent? My thought is that the fan is just an electric motor, it either works or it doesn't. I know there's a relay involved somewhere and that could be intermittent. I don't know what tells the relay to relay, some temp sensor someplace, could that be intermittent? Thanks! Will-

I checked and that appears to still be correct. I suppose these latches might work on historic models, dunno, never owned one

Wow, the EA81s are 'historic' now? Damn, I feel old. I have't been active on the board the last few years, things do change. Thanks for the tip I75eya

Greetings! Several years ago I was approached about making a replacement for the rear window latches on EA81 hatches. I made a couple of batches while I had access to the equipment to do so. They worked out well and I've been approached about whipping up another batch. So, here's a call out to see who is interested. How it works, You ship me your busted latches as a core, all the steel bits have to be there. I take your metal bits and mount them in the aluminum (6061-t6) handle that I'll be making. I assemble it, I can sandblast the steel hardware for those that want to repaint, then send it back to you. Shipping overseas is fine, but maybe cost you a bit extra depending. Price is $65 for a pair. Assembly is pretty straight forward, so an alternative is that I just ship you the handles and you put it together yourself, up to you. Here's a pic of the handle with hardware installed. Also a link to the Vendor forum where you should place your order. Cheers, Will- https://www.slickpic.com/users/WillMorton/albums/Port/photo?view=10933303&fullsize#10933303 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/161862-replacement-rear-window-latches-for-ea81-hatch-and-justy/?p=1346518

Bummed because your 30 some-odd year old plastic window latch broke and you can't find a replacement? Look no further! How it works, You ship me your busted latches as a core, all the steel bits have to be there. I take your metal bits and mount them in the aluminum (6061-t6) handle that I'll be making. I assemble it, I can sandblast the steel hardware for those that want to repaint, then send it back to you. Shipping overseas is fine, but maybe cost you a bit extra depending. Price is $65 (includes shipping) for a pair. Assembly is pretty straight forward, so an alternative is that I just ship you the handles and you put it together yourself, up to you. Here's a pic of the handle with hardware installed. Cheers, Will- https://www.slickpic.com/users/WillMorton/albums/Port/photo?view=10933303&fullsize#10933303

peet and repeat are in a boat, peet falls out, who's left?

hehe, to the swear editing software, sorry to the mods, forgot about the potty-mouth filter

Fairtax, still haven't read the codes, I suck. I'm a one-legged man at an rump roast kicking contest. I 'll report back.

Good advice, thanks. I really should do this as all the rubber under the hood is original and I'm sure is ready to be replaced. I'm kind of running on the "it was fine before I fucked with it" principle, but it could easily be something I tweaked/cracked that I didn't notice during the process. I can say that all the grounds I cleaned off on both ends while I was doing the trans swap, I'm hip to that one.