xt6_4_life

hmm.... maybe i'd be better off tryin to find an xt6 one. anybody have a good source where i could pick up a new one? or a used one in really good shape?

is the a/c pump on a xt6 the same as a xt. mine just so happened to get dropped (long story) and busted it up internally. drove all last summer in the desert with no a/c. would really like to get one for this year. i know of a xt i can get a pump off of but i dont know if it will be compatable or not.

thats perfect. i can understand having the step too. ill see if some ppl i know at a machine shop can make one for me. they usually do pretty good at most everything. if they cant though i'll email you.

i think my only option now is to try to remove it while the exhaust is still on. We've been getting snow almost everyday now and its making it a little bit harder than normal to work on. As it turns out the car slid on the compacted snow and ice right off the jackstands. nothing was damaged though. my only other option, which aint gona happen, is to wait till warmer weather. Ive already put this project off long enough. Skip, if you can show me a pic of what your custom wrench looks like ill try and make one. No subaru dealers for 170mi, only dodge, ford, and chevy

pretty simple(once its already busted that is) theres a screw on the front side of the grip. unscrew that. then there is a pin near the bottom that runs perpindicular to the screw. (driver side to passenger side) it can be popped out with a fine screwdriver, thin nail, ect. (at least thats what i used) Then it should pull off. it may help to give a slight twist.

Hey some kids shattered my driver side fog light. if theres one there in good shape???? let me know of costs The only other thing i really want is the pistol shifter. would give my left arm for another one.(only one not needed for driving. hehe) mine was broken when i got it and made driving really hard. had to put on a aftermarket junker nob. i have a 5spd

Man i hate the snow. not for driving tho. then i love it. if i still had my camera i would take pics of what i have to go thru. its ridiculous what we do for our cars.

they've already been broken off before. didnt lose any studs. i also antisiezed them before putting back together. shouldnt be that bad. ill go on ahead and drop it and switch it over. i still wouldnt mind seein what the custom wrench looks like tho.

"If you want I'll see if I can dig out the home made wrench and get some pictures of it." that would be awesome. just picked up the o2 sensor. $19 and some change. i wouldve never thot about that. "I would not attempt it without heating the nuts to cherry red with a brazing tip on an oxyacetylene torch." which nuts were u talkin about. the exhaust ones?? i was gona use the impact on them. unless thats a bad idea

Yes. the heat shielding does a pretty good job of not letting me take it out with ease. i'll take two seconds and go re-evaluate the situation. Dont want to drop the exhaust if i dont have to.

"I know it's a pain in the butt to get at, I made a special wrench to get it out." So do you mean that a regular wrench/socket won't fit on the sensor to remove it? I was just getting ready to jack up the car and drop the exhaust system. I won't do it if if needs a special wrench though. I'll wait till i can find a wrench first. Thanks for info on the universal o2 sensor. ill get one of those for the time being and once i get back on my feet again ill drop in oem or similar.

hey. im kinda short on cash right now. as i dont have a job. (no car cant get to work) if it turns out that my cat is clogged or damaged, would it be a good idea to run my 6 without a cat on it. if i were to just remove it and drop a piece of pipe to fill the gap for the time. Or would it damage the engine in any way?? i know a couple of guys who did it to their rides. One was a neon and the other an older nissan 280z. just kind of curious.

It helped alot. Only bad thing is now im gona have to dig out the carharts and get ready to "play" in some snow to take it off to look at it. we've been getting snow like crazy and its driving me mad that i cant be tearin' it up... I did what you said and warmed up the car and then checked the light with no connectors attached. No blinking whatsoever. i think what might be a culprit is all the sediment from when we cleaned out the bellhousing in preps for the new clutch. All of that engine degreaser and dust is probably doing a number on that poor o2 sensor and wires. wouldnt be too surprised if its just dirty connections or damaged wires. I also found that one of the connectors is really worn out and will barely stay together. Normally i would just electrical tape it together. Instead im gona go pick up some new connectors and some wire. Theres no way, with being this close to having it running, i am willing to "shortcut" it now. Ill do a backflow test on it too. might as well since the o2 sensor will be pulled out... i'm kinda short on cash right now. if my cat is plugged, is it a good idea to put a used one. or could i possible just strait pipe it until i get another job w/ some $$. I need this car to be able to work. no car no work. kinda sucks that way.

im confused about the location of the air control valve. i read a lillte on how to test it. better to test it when first starting up the car so it'll have the most change. I'm just a little unsure as to where exactly it is...

i didnt do it by chiltons. never having done timing before i asked my friend. a mech of 12+ yrs to help me out. he did it for me. i double checked the work and everything seems legit.

ok ill try to fill u in. Back in october the clutch finally went out. I pulled the motor myself doing a routine clutch swap. Dropped in a nice Exeddy clutch kit. I figured while it was out might as well get other things out of the way. I had purchased oem hydraulic lash adjusters to go all the way around, so id be garaunteed to have a little more life in the car. High performance fuel injectors put in. replaced the rocker cover gaskets and the seal between the rocker housing and heads. brand new t belts. new serpentine. custom made intake, which actually got put on before the car broke down so i know its not one of the problems cause the car ran great once i put it on. brand new disty cap and rotor. did not remove the entire disty setup. just replaced the cap and rotor. New spark plugs and lastly a battery. Got everything reassembled in the car. New oil change. New coolant. New fuel filter. Got the timing belts timed. then i had to go purchase a timing light to "fine tune it" through the disty. So now the car, once its fired up, runs awesome in an idle state. i can give it gas and max out the rpms no prob. When i put it into gear is where it gets tricky. as soon as i start moving, in theory when its floored it should get right up and go. But it doesnt. Instead it chokes and sputters and wont even hit 2K rpms. I can drive it so long as i barely gas it when the gas peddle hits a "sweet spot". if i try to accelerate too quickly it just looses power on me. thats what im trying to figure out. Is why is it loosing power period and especially when i floor it. I went on ahead and replaced my pcv valve. checked all vaccuum lines for wear and cracks. they all checked out. i checked out the temp sensor, o2 sensor and tps sensor to see what kind of shape the wires and connectors are in. i cleaned all the connectors with an electric connector cleaner just to make sure and all the wires seem to be in good order. After seeing the Air control valve code pop up on my ecu, it started to make a little sense as to why it would not respond correctly. i figured it had to do with either the mixture that was running in or having to do with the throttle. where can i pick up FSMs. not tryin to sound ignorant but what does fsm stand for?? Thanks

Is there any way to test and see if its bad or not... I'm not quite sure as to where its located. Chiltons is starting to majorly suck. does anyone know where to buy a air control valve fairly cheap? anyone have an extra one floating around willing to sell? I feel like after 3 months im getting somewhere.

First off i just want to thank everyone who has been helping me these past few days. As many a time that i have wanted to give up, or simply blow up the motor and trash the car, i havent. That i owe to everyone here at usmb. I sometimes have a hard time tryin to do this all by myself. So anyways, i just ran outside to try to do a code check. surprisingly it flashed a 24 and a 32. I'm tryin to find out what codes those stand for so I know where to start the real repairs. Anyone know what these codes are?? I cant wait to get back behind the wheel of my 6....

not a moment too soon... already had the intake torn apart and ready to go. gona go pick up some electrical part cleaner right now....

is it a good idea to use carb cleaner to clean out a maf. or is there something thats better for the job? any special ways it has to be done?

just a few questions to ask. Does it do just fine when idleing? And as soon as you engage it in gear it starts chocking and sputtering? This may sound strange but it helped me a lil bit. See 3 tips of my fuel injectors were shattered. and 2 were blown out. What i did and this actually worked for bout 8 months was take a pair of vice grips. by the fuel rail where all the fuel lines run in/out. find the return fuel line. if standind on the driver side of the engine it should be the farthest line of the 3 on the left. crimp the return fuel line almost completley off. if you do this while the engine is idleing you should hear a change. rpms should increase slightly. then try to drive it again. you might have to adjust it tighter or looser. people may think im crazy and yes that may be. or if you wanna take a different route at it pull apart your injectors and inspect them. never hurts

that never really crossed my mind either... same thing happened to buddy of mine. had a bug stuck to his. i should be able to use carb cleaner, or brake parts cleaner to clean it right. ill try that in the morning.

Im sorry. i dont mean to sound ignorant, but what do you mean by what you said. Im a "self taught" mech and im always eager to learn something new. if you wouldnt mind explaining what it is you said i'd greatly appreciate it. What is the idle switch and where do i find it. What are the green connectors. What should they be connected to. Is there a way to adjust the throttle??

... Well i would put back the originals, but seeing how 3 of the injectors had shattered tips and 2 were completley blown out that doesnt seem to be very likely... Secondly, due to me being "cheap" on occasion, ran the car on regular oil and not synthetic. it sounded much like a bunch of kids pounding on metal trash cans as i drove places. they were worn out and 3 of them ceased up. ill find out which brands the injectors/lifters are. i was reffered to them by someone on a diff site. I'm also going to revert the intake back to stock. and recheck the timing to make sure its right on.

i own an 89 xt6 with a 2.7 flat 6. i just get that out of the way cause some people like to gripe about it. Anyways. I recently did some reconstruction to it. New exeddy racing clutch, high performance injectors and lifters, fuel filter, pcv valve replacement, spark plugs, distributor and rotor, timing belts, and lastly a custom made intake. I got the engine running but its not getting me power. in an idle state i can gas it and it responds well. when i floor it, while still parked, instead of peaking out the rpms it starts to choke and sputter and wont pass 2000rpms. i can drive it downhill and on level ground so long as i can hit a "sweet spot" on the gas peddle. when it comes to driving uphill i have to fight it to make it do 20mph. which usually consists of me leaving it in first gear and almost flooring it. its not responding and ive tried everything i know. not even my friend, whos been a mech for 12+ yrs knows what to do anymore. if anybodys ever faced this problem or might have any ideas as to what might be causing this your help would be greatly appreciated. the only thing left that i think it could have to do with is the throttle. but i dont know what part/parts it would involve fixing or replacing. anything at all will help.