kilgore

I froze new bearings and drifted them in with a brass punch, worked very nicely, thanks! Still getting clunking on both accel/deceleration and in neutral. a new axle didn't help. so far i have replaced the balljoints, bearings, seals, strut, cone washer and axle - i've torqued and retorqued the castle nut to 145-150 ft-lb to no effect. The spring washer's correctly oriented. Could the hub splines have been damaged - the wheel bearings were quite bad?

Has there been any resolution on this problem?

Recently did the front, passenger side wheel bearings and seals on my Loyale. After, I was getting popping sounds from that corner when gearing down. Took the hub apart and found that the inner seal was mangled. I looked at Nugs' post:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491 There appears to be a difference in the orientation of the new and old outer seals. (Or are they different seals?) 1. Which side of the outer seal is supposed to face the bearings? The flat side or the lip side? 2. Somebody else pressed the bearings in for me, if they were pressed by the centre race could this damage the bearings enough to get this popping sound? Thank you.

Popped off the inspection caps, loosened then retightened the tensioner bolts one at a time and it appears to have worked for now. Now to debug that EGR code...

Indeed. No bearings... The whine is the oil pump though, I did the belts the Haynes way and I think they are too tight, felt odd snugging them up... Checked the service records that came with the car, the pulleys were done only 2 years ago. Off to relieve the belts. Thanks.

I have a whine coming from my oil pump now only since the t-belts were replaced I suspect it's bearing related. The Haynes manual tensioning method required 18 ft-lbs applied to the camshaft sprocket bolts in a c-clockwise direction... doesn't this just unthread the bolts??!? Belt tensioning is not really addressed in the USMB repair manual (timing belt check and replacement). I think I have them too tight now, but how do you get the right tension?

Yes, I reset the timing. I didn't think it would do any damage, but... The problem was the idle air control, as you had mentioned. When I did the head gaskets I flipped the intake mani back over the tire storage. I guess over a couple of days of being upside down and open, any condensed moisture dried and the sediment gummed up the mechanism. A squirt of carb cleaner and 15 minutes later it cleared up and the car ran good... Thanks again for the help!

Thank you, hopefully it's that simple! It was too late to check the codes last night, will something like this show up? Initially I reinstalled the distributor TDC for exhaust stroke, needless to say it didn't turn over. Could this have damaged any of the throttle assembly?

After hours of researching on this forum I'm happy to say I successfully (for the most part) did the head gaskets in my Loyale. Did them in the car, so my back is aching. Thanks to all the subaru pros out there for all their postings over the years. I fired her up last night and a strange issue popped up. The revs were normal idling first. Then when I gave her some gas the rpm's went up to about 1500 but not back down... More gas and same issue, rpm's went higher to about 2000, but didn't return to idle. I turned the ignition off and restarted but the rpm's went right to 2000 again. They keep climbing... Any ideas would be hugely appreciated!!

You may want to try a Peugeot forum. There's a lot of guys on there with them sitting in their sheds. try: http://www.505turbo.com/forum/

Thanks for the replies. After further searching I was able to locate this post from a while back which was also really helpful. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63765 After more research (work was slow today...) I will go with the felpro set except for a few gaskets where OEM have been recommended.

Looking for recommendations of what to replace while in there doing the head gaskets. I will be ordering an Ishino engine seal set, so a lot of the gaskets and orings will be included there. Tbelts and tensioner bearings are on the list, what else would you recommend? thank you.

Nice weather finally gave a chance to poke around. Have a visual on the HG leak. External leak (lower rear corner driver's side), plugs are fair. Now just need to give the heads a go! Thanks for all the help.

Okay, a pressure test shows the head gasket is leaking externally. Only under pressure, so it was diff to pinpoint the location. thanks all for the help.

Thanks for the responses. - The engine has 150k miles. - PCV valve is three months old and cleaned the hoses out last night. Runs much better, the engine runs well when accelerating, but kind of limps when cruising along (new plugs and wires). Could a vacuum leak be drawing moisture in? - Will look into compression and pressure tests. - Dipstick oil is clean. - No steam or odour in exhaust. Could be leaking at pressure when driving I suppose. The rad was just replaced, and there's no distinct evidence of a leak that I can see. I will check around some more and update. Thanks again for the help! (I hope its not 'epic', MXTC!)

Hi, I have a 92 Loyale. Just noticed today that the vacuum lines are nearly clogged with mayonnaise and she's started going through a lot of coolant. Sounds like I may need a new head gasket? I am dreading what is lurking beneath the valve covers... Any help would be great! Thanks.

Hi, changed the radiator and coolant the other day in my EA82. When we opened the second block plug (the one located above the crossmember) no coolant came out. Flushed it out with a garden hose and it wasn't draining here either. She only took 3 litres of coolant as well and is not running hot. Sounds plugged somewhere to me. Any recommendations? Thanks.

Hi all. Bits and Bites on zinc coatings as I have experienced: Zinc-rich primer products work using the same theory behind marine anodic corrosion prevention (ie. the 'zincs' on a saltwater outboard motor). The zinc is sacrificial. In hot and humid applications, surfaces between aluminum and galvanized components should be painted to avoid accelerated oxidation. If you want a skookum cold galvanizing product, check out zinc rich epoxy products (Zinga, Devoe Cathacote, or Cloverdale Clovazinc). The higher the % solids, the better. You will also see better results with spray applied cold galv. if the steel is super clean and a rust converter is applied first.

MBI: Mechanical Breakdown Insurance I bought an older toyota pickup once and found a credit card style card with the original owner's name and the VIN embossed all professional like. cool.

Changed the alternator, no more whining. Snugged up the clutch cable within tolerance, much less stick vibration. Changed the drive belts as they were old, checked all the pulleys. The P/S pump pulley has a tiny bit of play, will keep an eye on it. Changed the trannie fluid, it was ugly. Next up, pan gasket... Thanks for the help!

Excellent advice! I will check both of those and let you know. I measured the voltage at the battery terminals with a voltmeter as gauges are dubious. Mileage 225000 km, 140k miles in mountain country. Yes there is the whining noise in neutral... good point. that would eliminate the transmission bearing completely. The timing belt pulleys were replaced with the belts. Luckily i bought the car off a bud and i have every receipt from day one. Thanks, this service rocks!

Hey all. I've had my first Sube now for 3 months and love it! 1. I recently noticed a low whining noise once my loyale heats up. The pitch matches the engine rpm's. I can also feel a high frequency vibration in the stick shift, leading me to believe it may be a transmission bearing. (???) Initially i thought it was the p/s pump or alternator bearing, but a screwdriver stethoscope found only normal noises from them both. Is there a Trans replacement in my future and how far off? 2. Is it normal to see the battery voltage rise to 17V when the engine is revved? Thanks.