RonVee

Seems every zip I type in for NAPA shows the axle, even ones I've been to on Monday around here but they all say when they look on their computer is Discontinued? If they could get it from another NAPA store don't why do they tell me they can't?

Well actually the axle I had replaced 3 years ago Had a 2 year parts/labor warantee. It's been 3 years so no more warantee. I have checked with all O'Reilly's, Napa's, Autozone, Adavance and some local part stores. Nobody has a place to order them from. Everyone around this area says the part is DIScontinued. I have had this problem around this neck of the woods for along time....that's why after calling all of them I usually wind up here as I am at the end of the line. This is not Subaru country, at least for the 20-30 year old Soobs. Believe me. Thanks.............Ron

Hi, I have an 1982 Subaru GL Wagon , Dual Speed Hi/Lo 4WD ,standard 4 speed trans. 1.8 L Engine. The driver side rear axle and wheel bearing was replaced around 3 years ago. Out of warantee now. The outer axle-cv joint has play up and down on axle stub (the stub that comes through the bearing and has big nut on outside). I can't find a rear axle assembly here in Shelby Nc area....I have called them all. Still shows numbers on their computers but all say no longer available. Any ideas please? Thank you in advance.........Ron

Hi and thanks to everyone with all the suggestions! BIG special thanks to turbosubarubrat for all the great pics. They helped me see what I'm up against. My lock is slightly different than yours in the pic. I did find the tiny pin you told me about on the side of the lock holder assembly. The angle is in a place that would make it hard for me to use the drill I have as the drill is pretty big. The car is a couple of hundred feet away from electric outlet and I don't have that big of extension cords. I also don't trust myself with a job like drilling out that pin. I's prob just ruin the whole shebang! I think I will try to get out the doorlock and going over a county or 2 and ask the keymakers if they can make me a key with the doorlock. As I recall a 20 years ago they did one but a few years ago they all said it was too old. There is very little supply of anything left around here as the junkyards prices for junk cars went up the last year or so and every junked every car they had. Subarus were rare in this neck of the woods to begin with. SO....before I even attempt drilling the pin out I'm going to take the doorlock out and go to every key maker within 75 miles or so. Thank you all for your help and ESPECIALLY to turbosubarubrat !!! Ron

turbosubarubrat, I just went outside and looked at the bottom of the assembly that holds the left hand plug with the soldered wires and the right side ignition key slot with the "start, ac, radio ect." From below I could not see any little pin towards the middle. Maybe the 83 is different from the 85? Mine is an EA81. Isn't 85-87 a EA82? Pic would be ok. Can't use video ...on superslow dialup. Only 2.2Kbs. Much appreciated..........Ron

Hi all and thanks for the replies. I tryed a few other Subaru keys. I lucked out and all of them came out without damage. None of them worked. Other Jap keys....I tryed along time ago.....can't risk it as I got one stuck. There are no Subaru dealers in my county and the last time I tryed to get a key from one of them they said they did not have any reference to any that old. Bratman2--- the plug at the end of those soldered wires is the side on the driver side door....the other side of the column , pass side is where the key goes in. Not following how you can get a key made. Isn't the key side the side that has tumblers for key? That's also the side I can't get out. Thanks.......................Ron

Hey All, First thanks to all who replied! I took the 6-7 screws out and removed the plastic off the steering column. I then removed the 2-small screws on the door side. The lock thingy with the wires soldered on the driver door side came out easily. The other side, where the key inserts , doesn't move at all. No rotating. I'm not sure I get the part about "use a flat tip or just about anything else to rotate the plug piece that you just removed". The key part on the passenger side of the lock assembly won't budge. What should I be using the flat tip to do? At this point the part of the lock assembly on the driver side of column is the only thing that I removed..... I'm dumb at understanding things these dayz! lol Also, do I have to remove the door lock too? Doesn't the lock have the key code also? What about the tail hatch....does it have a key code ? I'm trying to 'not' mess with a door panel as every one I have ever touched never quite worked again!!! I am not a very capable mechanic at this stage in my life....I had a hard time reading all my Sub manuals before coming here also. I've been driving Subarus since 1982 but my brain/body don't work like they used too. I hope you all understand and I appreciate all the help I get here. Thanks in advance.........Ron

Hi All, Have a 1983 Subaru GL Wagon 4WD Dual Range-1800 cc. I lost the ignition key. There are no key makers/ ignition switch business in my area. I would have to have it towed to next county as it has no tags. I am trying to get it ready for state inspection as you need it before they will issue tag. 1. Any easy way to remove switch/lock easily so I could bring switch to locksmith? 2. I have an old remote starter switch (type with button and 2 alligator clamps) and tryed to start it but it would only turn motor over- no spark.....what do I have do to get spark to start it. Just want to run it once a week in backyard to keep battery up. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks..........Ron

Thanks to all that posted up with help! Good news: Seal is in! Had to take radiator out to get new one in. Not so good news: Still have a small oil leak. I gunked engine good and the oil seams to be coming from above the lower part of the oil filter mount then running the length of the bottom of the oil filter. Guess I should have replaced the oil pump gasket. (it only comes with the whole kit with the O rings) I also was gunshy as I never have messed with a Soob oil pump in 25 years of driving the 3 that I have. I was just trying to stop the oil leak that I put up with the last 3 winters. I'll have to drive her to see exactly how much leak I have compared to before the new seal. It was really slinging it up to the hood and belts. Maybe it slowed it down enough to wait till next year to fix the pump leak!!! Anywho.....thanks for the help and good to see GD and the rest all still here and helping ********************* me out ! LOL Peace.......Ron PS: I don't know where everyone gets the philip screwdrives to fit the hole to lock the flywheel down. I tried 20 or so and could not find one that could clear all the obsticles around the timing hole. Even my punches were all too long. I had to resort to an allen key to unlock and it broke upon locking the nut back down. Lucky me ....I did manage to remove it all without dropping it down the hole.......Gettin old does suck and don't let anyone else tell ya different.

I have a 1982 GL wagon 4WD D/R 1800 engine, Hi all. Could someone please tell me the correct way to install a new front crankshaft seal. I have searched and found many ideas and methods: 1 .Coat seal inner/outer edges with clean engine oil. 2. Coat outer edge with silicon spray. http://californiavan.com/subaru/engineseals/ 3. Pack white lithium or wheel bearing grease between the two lips on the inner edge of the seal where it rides against the crank. Smear Permatex #2 gasket sealer around the outer edge of the Seal. (From HTKYSA Book) 4. Use High tack sealer [almost glue] to hold in the seal. ??? Don't know what this is. 5. Blue loc-Tight on outer edge of seal. 6. Coat the outer portion of the seal with a thin coating of silicone . Could someone please tell me what is the best way to install a new seal? Thanks in advance..........RonVee

I'm looking for a 4SP D/R. Reading the thread I see northguy's: "If you're looking for an ea81 d/r tranny (4 spd) give me a holler. I've got a spare sitting around (and a 3.9 diff to match up with it)." I get excited. Then I see: Chugiak, Alaska. Then I yell: CRAP! I'm in N.C.! Man, that is Waaaaay too north for me. Peace....Ron Happy Holidays to the Board!

I tryed all the different 'patches'. None lasted very long. If the threads are stripped the 7/16 tap fix does the job. Do the 7/16-14 plug tap, then 7/16-14 bottoming tap and install the 7/16 studs. Try to get the stainless studs/nuts/washers like mikeshoup said. This worked for me. Peace...Ron Happy Holidays to the Board!

CD45- Thanks for the check valve tip! Now after all these years I can finally...(excuse etc) Peace....Ron

Congrats on getting your Soob back! Also..... to the members who are willing to donate parts...simply FAB! Peace........Ron

I found this on eBay.I thought the opening lines of the description very sweet, positive and yet funny at the same time. Vehicle Description: MY DAD WAS A MODERN DAY PIONEER, A MOUNTAIN MAN, A NON-CONFORMIST- HE LIVED HIS ENTIRE LIFE BY HIS OWN RULES, NEVER SOLD OUT OR BOUGHT IN AND DEFIED CONFORMITY UNTIL THE VERY END. HE NEVER DROVE ANYTHING BUT SUBARUS AND THIS BRAT WAS HIS FAVORITE. Item number: 250045323929 1985 Subaru BRAT Not mine, just trying to share the words. Peace...Ron

UPdate, Got the wagon OFF the trailer today. It was the HillHolder! Thx Qman and GD. Will remember the other sand trick as well. The hillholder lever was all the way to the left position. Loosened the nut around 1 1/2 inches of thread. Lever went over to correct position-rolled right off trailer!! Now on to the tranny. When I put in to neutral, car rolls. When I put it to any gear, 4WD H/L and let out the clutch the motor starts to stall. If I really give her gas, the car will start to move very slowly but almost stalls.( In reg 2WD, it won't budge.)Then the shifter gets stuck. I have to roll the car a little to get the shifter Unstuck. Feels like the brakes are still on or something. When I get it back in neutral, it will then roll freely. When in gear with clutch in it won't roll. How would the brakes be locking up in gear but not in neutral? Guy told me tranny was prob trashed......is he correct or is there still hope? Again, thanks to all for the great suggestions to help me get it off the trailer. Much appreciated!!! Peace....Ron

Went and picked up my newest-83 Wagon GL manual trans-Dual Range. Put it on trailer, got it home and now it won't come off the trailer! Stuff: The guy I got this from said that when he got this wagon a year or so ago said the original tranny had a bad 3rd gear syncro. It got worse so when he replaced the clutch he got a used tranny from the junkyard. Put both in- said it worked OK for a few months. Then the shifter kept getting locked up and hard to get out of gear. It then proceeded to become undrivable, too many lockups. When I went to get it, he could only get it into 3rd gear with the D/R in LOW position and drove it onto my trailer. When I got it home I took it out of 3rd to back it off the trailer. It is now completely locked up and won't move at all. Sometimes if I get the shifter to move into a neutral spot, the D/R to a neutral spot, release the clutch w/ engine running...it won't budge not even by pushing the car. If I can get it into a gear, when I release the clutch the engine speed seems to be going down as to stall, the car still does not budge an inch. Help....I can't get it off the trailer and the trailer has to be returned as is not mine! LOL Any ideas on what's going on here? Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post Peace....Ron

Got it! Thanks alot GD.

Thanks GD for the Info! Peace..Ron

Cornfused here: 2WD is a 200mm clutch disc and pressure plate. 4WD is a 225mm clutch disc and pressure plate. 80-82 EA81's were all 200mm regardless of transmission. So an '82 EA81 4WD is a 200mm? Was thinking of replacing my '82 4WD and Advance + Autozone show a 225mm as the part. Thanks in advance. Peace....Ron

Hi all, I just got a 1983 GL Wagon with 4 speed manual-Dual Range. Trans is dead and funeral is pending. What year trannys are a "direct bolt in replacement"? 81-84? (the GL wagons and GL hatchbacks?) Same on front seats.....80-84? Do I have to use GL wagon front seats only or will any front buckets fit the GL Wagon? Just want the direct fit, not looking to upgrade. Thanks in advance! Peace.....Ron

Just wanted to say thanks for the Great Exhaust Stud Fix! Tryed all the other stuff...problem always came back. Did the 7/16"-14 tap with new 7/16" studs. Works great. They are in there now for sure! Big Thanks to TomRhere!!! This fix is fantastic! Peace.....Ron PS: I did a search before I posted this and alot of threads had Tom's name as the source of the fix so I hope I am correct. Real Big Thanks goes to this forum and it's members for helping me through the years keep my Subies goin!!!!!!

Well put the hose in. Ran it for an hour. Seems to work OK. Gets awfully hot but didn't leak, or explode yet! It's my winter car so I'll have to wait till then to really see if it will hold up. Thanks guys! Peace.....Ron

I checked the hose and it seems to have a small white thread in the middle of the hose-not a full braid-just a kind of spiral wrap. Not very much of it though. Can't tell if it has a 'nylon core' either. Are you sure this type of hose can take the very high temps of hot antifreeze? The hose is "very hot to the touch". Since it is so small I'm afraid with the pressure & hot coolant it might not hold up too well and burst. Any other ideas for the correct hose for this type of application? Some parts stores told me it would work, while others said no way. Thanks.....Ron

Hi All, Need some hose info for: 1982 Subaru GL 4WD Wagon, 1.8L, w/ 1 Brl Carter/Weber Carb. The 2 small 1/4" or .25 (?) coolant hoses that connect at the base of the intake manifold right below the front of the carb. 1) One goes from the intake manifold to the inlet area of the upper radiator hose/thermostat part of manifold. 2) Second goes from the intake manifold over to the larger heater bypass pipe. I guess you would call these both small diameter bypass hoses. Can't find anything in all the auto parts stores except 1/4" fuel/emmision hose that says on it: "Gates XL Fuel Line 1/4" (6.3mm) SAE 30R7 CS051506 X200 Not For Fuel Injection Systems Made in USA By Gates." Will this work OK or not? If above won't suffice, anyone have a clue to find a few feet of what will/should work? Thanks in advance Peace....Ron