
RonVee
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Factory service manual for download?
RonVee replied to leon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks VERY much for the D/L link! -
How To Keep Your Subaru Alive pdf file
RonVee replied to baccaruda's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks for the PDF file link Russ + Tin Soldier. I just want to thank everyone here @USMB for all their helpful posts and information. Without all of your help, I would have been forever lost. Peace....Ron -
Thanks for all the great info. I think I have all the Manual/4WD tranny options for the 80's sorted out. What are the Manual/4WD packages for the 89-95? I mean what wagons came with what as far as the Loyale, Legacy etc as far as manual/4WD options? I am not familiar with these as I have always been driving the 70-80's Subarus. Also when did they stop the 4WD and switch to the AWD? Thanks in advance...Ron
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Hi All, Thanks for all the great info! Forgot to say my '82 is a wagon. The next one will have to be also. What wagons where made after the Dual-Range era ending in 89? Is this when the Legacy Wagon came out? So where they just 5 speed 4WD-with no low 4WD? Anyone have the gear ratios for the years 90-94 period? Is there a big difference between 1st and second gear ratios on these years compared to the 80's. I'd hate to get a later model and have to be in first gear all the time climbing up mtn all the time, esp in summer. Rough on the engine. Guess that's why my 82 wagon stood up so much longer that the 79 Brat. Gears really count IMHO. McBrat: Thx for the link to the chart. Got one for 90-94? WJM: not understanding what you said. "the fulltime Dual Range trans had 1.196 reduction...normal D/R are 1.5xx something." What is the difference in "fulltime Dual Range and Normal Dual-Range"? Much appreciated everyone. Peace..Ron
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I am looking to replace my old 82 GL wagon which is on the way out due to rust. It is a 4 speed manual, with the Dual-Range 4WD. I live up a fairly steep dirt road and found the Low Range (in second gear)very useful when hauling in water, kerosene etc. It seems to give me the right pulling power and right speed at around 10MPH. I had a 79 Brat 4WD manual and with it in second it was too high and first was to low. I think through searching the forum that the Dual Range was produced from 82-88 (89)?. If I were to get something later than 89, what kinds of 4WD options are there? Where there any that had the lower range? Are all the later ones the pushbutton only? When did Subaru switch to AWD? I notice that the ones after 89 came with a 5 Speed manual. Would those models when in 4WD-second gear be close to the 82 I have or would the gearing be more like the Brat in 4WD -second gear ratio wise? I hope someone can understand what I am trying to ask. I just don't want to invest in a newer model if the gearing isn't pretty close to what I have in the 82. Maybe someone can explain what models had what, 4WD wise. I just never have drove one newer than the 82 in over 20 years! The older Dual-Range models are very hard to find in western N.C. . Most are rusted out like mine. Thanks in advance Ron
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Skip, Thx for buzzing in. I know the Bi-Metal spring is heated by a heating element. But should it stay heated all the time? I thought that after the engine warmed up or after a certain amount of time it stops heating? Surely it the element doesn't constantly stay on (hot) all the time, does it? I thought it "pulled off" electrically after a specified time. I drove the car on the street in the late 80's -90's and never remember the housing getting this hot. I'm currently driving an 82 wagon and the housing in not hot at all. The points are fine and it runs perfect after it warms up. The choke plate is fully closed when cold. Still confused..
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UPDATE: Tested with Ohm-meter. Got 9 ohms. Manual says 9 ohms normal. Any ideas on why the choke housing is getting so hot and why it is so hard to start? Runs fine after it has warmed up for a few minutes. (it's in the 80's here, so it will get worse when it gets colder. Thanks in advance Ron
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Hi all, I have a 1979 Brat. 1.6L, Hitachi 2-barrel carb with an electric choke. Use it off-road to get around the mtn I live on. Just started acting up with idle problems, starting probelms etc. When I was looking around the carb when it was running, I noticed the Electric Choke Housing is very hot to the touch. The carb was normal temp when touched. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Ron
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Hi All, Thanks for all your input. Got it on the 10mm-1.25 threads. Can't seem to find any around here. Will venture out to another county today. Pretty rural and no good old hardware or autoparts stores. Tryed Napa, Autozone, Advance . No go. I took a bolt (around 4") from a 79 Brat. It is the one that mounts the transaxle to the engine. The nuts from an exhaust stud thread on to it, so I assume it's the same thread. It has around 1" of thread on it. The rest is just a blank bolt. I ran the bolt up the stud holes in the head and they both appear to take the bolt. (they both screwed in OK). So maybe threads in the head are still OK? Friend of mine suggested that when I find the right stud/bolt, to put a little LOC-TITE (RED) on the new studs. Is this OK? Also what about taking the 4" bolt from above, sawing off the bolt head, and then get some new threads added to the blank 3" of the bolt (now a stud) by a machine shop? Just huntin a cheap alternative. It's a beater and taps, heli-coils etc sounds kind of expensive to me. Also, are the threads just in the head, or head AND air contraption spacer block? Again, thanks for all the feedback Peace Ron
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Hi all. I have a 1982 Subaru GL, 4WD wagon, std transmission, 1.8L, 1 barrel Carter. One of the exhaust studs fell out a few months ago, then today, the second one fell out. My fault, I should have replaced the header pipe/converter along with new studs a year ago. Just tryin to keep her going. This particular wagon has the exhaust system that has the "air thing box" or "spacer" with the hoses on it between the engine head and the exhaust header flange. There is only one of these on the passenger side. The other side the header bolts directly to the head. (gasket in between). I have some extra exhaust studs laying around from a 1979 Brat, but they are too short( only 1 3/4 inch long) to use due to that "air emission spacer box". Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the longer studs? What size in diameter ( mm), thread size (pitch) and length (mm)? I have tryed all the local auto stores, nearest dealer, hardware stores, and even a local fastener warehouse. Any hints on where to find 2 of them? Thanks for looking and Happy New Year to all here Peace...RonVee