lighthousekeeper

I am having the same problem with my 1996 outback except i have checked every fuse with a multimeter for continuity and they are all fine. I even went so far as to check every fuse besides the air bag for continuity and they are all fine! I cannot get my dash or parking/tail lights to work only the brakes. The strange thing is that the lights will all flash on like they are supposed to when i click my remote starter/alarm. Im afraid i might need a new switch. Also what is the virgin switch you spoke of? Thanks

i went to several shops including Auto Zone and Oreilly Auto Parts and they told me i needed to go to the dealer because their reader wouldnt read the brake system. i really dont want to go to the dealer and have them lock me in to something i dont need/cant afford. any suggestions on where those sensors and wires are, for instance am i looking on the calipers or on the hub itself? Is the wire clearly sticking out where i can see it or does the dash need to come off?

I just had the same problem with my 96 legacy outback but nowhere near those miles. after many hours of "friendly persuasion" trying to separate the differential with chisels, screwdrivers, a sledgehammer, and anything else that came to hand in my frustration i decided to get a used tranny from a junkyard. if you have the patience it is possible to separate it (i took it to a machine shop after the fact) but you have to ask yourself if it is really worth it.

I have an ABS light on my 96 legacy outback that only turns on when i move the car. if i just let it idle it never turns on. it does it whether i go forward, backwards, fast, or slow once i let off the brake and move a few feet. i dont want to go to the dealer just yet and the car stops no prob but im just wondering if there is some imminent doom on the horizon. oh and i checked the master cylinder, calipers, abs module etc for anything that looks out of the ordinary for a DIY'er like me and got nothing.

Well no CEL might mean the OBD 1 isn't as sensitive as 2 I agree. Any puddles of oil at the stoplight or parking space? Or does the oil on your dipstick have a "milkshake" look to it or look funny at all? I know that seafoam hits the head gasket and oil pan gasket the hardest. changing the oil pan gasket isn't so bad but changing a head gasket in a DIY setting is a pain even for those who have done it before. Look for oil loss first before jumping to any conclusions.

oh im nowhere near that time. I just put a '96 Ford Taurus with 350k out to pasture so I know all about being anal about maintenance. I also just did a tranny swap, tune up, front axle change, and I have no CEL. Im really just looking for better breathing, maybe a computer upgrade, things like that. Suggestions?

Im looking for a cheap way to upgrade my Legacy Outback. Its a 96 with 175k and i want to make it run better and sound better but im broke. I also dont want it to sound like those hondas that sound constipated. Any suggestions?

I actually use it everywhere BUT in the crankcase. Ive heard too many horror stories about broken seals. The shaking and shuddering you are talking about and then smoothing out sounds like my 96 outback with 175k on it. I only put it in the PCV inlet and the gas tank and it smoothed out. If that doesnt work then you might have a corroded gasket. Is there any CEL?