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Posts posted by Rust
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I have one that was for a 1986 GL. I think they stopped making them with the Loyales.
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follow the "red" wire if you want to continue down this rabbit hole Neo.
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The gen 3 GL/loyale era cars are definitely scarce here on the east coast, gen2 and gen1 are pretty much extinct. I do hope many old subarus "make a comeback" to the east coast so we can have more subaru soldiers to replenish our army in fighting the salt wars.
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Update: So the last 3 times I checked the radiator and overflow canister, no loss. fluid at correct level. ??????
So either some gnomes repaired my car at night......OR........a piece of crud(???) has lodged into the internal leak , blocking the leak?
Again I am stumped?
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Question: when does clicking CV absolutely need to be replaced
Answer: When it stops clicking.
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No evidence of water in the oil. I do have some white smoke on start up but it quickly clears up. I think I'm just going to keep adding coolant until the leak is so bad it becomes obvious (or I have to do something about it). I'm thinking a bad gasket somewhere causing an internal leak.
what is the lowest ratio of anti-freeze to water mix I can get away with to make it through the winter. I'm thinking 3/4 water to 1/4 antifreeze, or can I go lower?
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So I am loosing a lot of coolant, no leaks anywhere. No huge amounts of white smoke either. Where is it all going?
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so i was pulling a tape on the 2.2 the other day and its a little too
close to call. does anyone know if it would fit in the 78 gf?Keep it stock, don't frankenize it.
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Yes the Goliath and Subaru share the same DNA.
I would try thesamba.com several write-ups on vw conversions. or search for old Matadors
You will need a lot of luck finding original parts for that german antique you have. Nice score!
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Cooter approves
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https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/d/subaru-wagon-dl/6216317427.html
looks pretty dry. jackman wheels (with caps!) Factory push bar. i'll take dents over rust any day.
hope someone saves it.
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I've used Highland ladder bars (Pep Boys) and other flat lip base type bars.
The key is running some securing bolts/screws through the plastic rain gutter into the roof itself on either side of the base clamps.
The plastic rain gutter is just clipped to the car, and it needs reinforcement. Especially if you plan on tossing a canoe or kayak up there.
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I commute 500 miles per week only in EA82 subarus. I could switch to legacy/outback but In my opinion the first 3 generations are the real deal 4x4. I am not a fan of AWD.
I have also noticed over the last 5 or so years i get a lot of questions/compliments on driving my GL or Loyale era gen 3 , that I used to only get in my Brat or Gen 1 or 2 car.
Its funny how a beater car is now is now transitioning to a classic car.
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looks like it has seen a few Mardi Gras parades.
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giving this thread a lift.
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Update: Problem resolved. It was the radiator. The old one was missing/crumbling cooling fins. Replaced it and it runs cool.
Hardest part was finding a (S) shaped lower hose, instead of a (?) shaped one. I wonder why some radiators have the lower outlet straight, and others have an upturn angle?
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If you are cash poor and can't swing a new set of wires and cap, just clean and dry out everything. Then smear some dialectic grease, vasoline, or whatever you have on hand around the wire connections, to keep the moisture out. This will buy you some time until you buy the parts you need.
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I have replaced the thermostat, I also checked the hoses. The lead hose to the pump is not collapsing when I rev up the rpms.
I noticed the secondary electric fan is not switching on at high temps, but it still runs cooler on side roads/stop and go driving.
I plan to try a few different radiator caps, and fix the fan. I don't think the fan is the problem due to the high highway temps.
Anyone have similar reverse overheating symptoms?
Any hope of preventing rust in New England?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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New England = No hope
Just embrace it, as you bounce down the road peppering the blacktop with sparkling flakes of your car.
Subaru = Spread the Love