kirbykirb

Found it, subaru hid it quite well. hehehe. EGR will be an issue, more or less because the car's ECU is mated to a manual... 4EAT version had a diff P/N but I've read that it can be related to a pin being grounded or gettin +5V.... It's going into my legacy GT/ I spun a bearing which made it much worse. D: short block is GONE poor EJ25D...but I'm getting a new one w/ heads.

Ah okay... hehehe I got most of that stuff except for the crank holder; hopefully HF has something to keep that still.... MMM tricky tricky. Atleast I didn't pull it and go "why my car no workie" lololol. Def can see why manual is better for this just a clutch cable and throttle and bam done!

Proper tool? What are those?! Like.. what would be needed for this horrid job! D:

So, I hear you have to undo the torque converter BEFORE you pull the engine from the car if it's an automatic/4EAT? Is this true? Because to the fact that alot of people over in the impreza side of things, rs25 and clubwrx... lota people messed up their 4EAT. I hear that you have to turn the crank; and with the little window on the passanger side of the tranny.. you have to unbolt it? And pull up the bolt (4 bolts?) and then you're safe to pull the engine? Then swap it out, realign and then turn crank once more and reput in the bolts in?

I was.. but I needed some incentive for the guy to take the car away tomorrow. Don't need FWD 5MT! all I needed is the engine hehehehe. now I need to grab the ECU and I'm done, problem is; can't find it!

Well... wow. So I did it! HOA got pissed at me but I DID IT!

lol the lift is a couple decades old... it's quite ironic how I found it. but hey US quality was good back in the day haha.

P.s. I see you enjoy shoping at harbor freight. So Do I. tehehehe

I have a gas tank from a 95' Legacy thats in used 15yr old condish that still works, no rust PM ME. tehehe

I have thie 95' BD legacy sedan, I wana grab the engine off it.. how do you do it? I have an impact gun, soon to have engine hoist and misc tools, like a long as hell breaker bar. My idea is this: Position engine lift over engine, secure it to hold it if it drops at last second or ************. >Drain radiator, pull off rad/codensor set aside. undo misc wiring to the main harness (love how subie has a harness plug in the middle ;D OHYEH) then go under car, drop headers, exhaust, put aside. then undo transmission and let it hang off a scissor jack from the trunk. then find out where the engine mounts are, undo those and pull it out? Think it'd be that easy?

EJ25D spun a bearing. So heres my battle plan: Pull my EJ25D, get short block. Learn how to to fix it properly (2/3 weeks just working on weekends/after work.) after I got that down, i'll pull the EJ22 and reswap over my loyal EJ25D and YAY! But anyway guys, when I grab the EJ22 engine out of the car; what should I replace on it?

This is true, took it up to 70 or so and nothing. I TRIED TO SEE IF I COULD KILL IT and make the engine ASPLODE AND NOTHING. but going to switch over a different shortblock!

WOW Guess this is what I'm going to be doing then. . Where did you ordered it? used from another seller? or is it/can it be a new part? if it fixes all that, hell I'll drop some $$$ for it.

Oh gosh, I had an idea like this but completley opposite. instead of modifying the ROM, I'll keep it stock and just manipulate what the transmission sensors are thinking; and "trick" the stock rom into switching gears, and moving power to the wheels I want (4eat handy dandy that thr 5mt don't have, variable awd.). How did you reverse the code? It's all in assemble/asm....

ouch! :| it's sounding like my Legacy Automatic! What type of automatic do you have? It's written on the transmission bell housing, and on the metal plate on the driver side udner the hood... It'd be like "TZ10" and continue on with numbers... curious curious . As for rolling forward/backwards I believe that's with the parking cowl inside the transmisison: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/car-in-park1.htm Heres how it works. and what goes in in the transmisison, that piece is worn down by time and stuff, and I think it is seperate from the rear of the transmission to which you're replacing, just use the e-brake to prevent future wear/tear on it. If it breaks :| ouch.

See, that's the tricky part. The Ej22 is from a manual; so no EGR besides an airpump in the passanger side of the bay which I took out (by the horn). My Ej25D subie is an automatic TZ102Z2ABA-CH. But I'm curious about the check engine light: couldn't I just run the Ej22 ECU inplace of the EJ25D when I do the swap and ti'd take care of emissions issues? I don't really care since my state has no emissions testing, misc but would love to have a functioning check engline light besides having to go code reader and misc. I'm debating it, I'm thinking I'll may just downgrade to the EJ22... just may do it.

EJ22 came out of a 95' L. EJ25D is in a 96' GT. Since it's only 20HP difference, I may downgrade to increase car relaibility. Plus I don't have a EJ25D and I alrdy have a EJ22, so we'll see. I know it'd bolt in and such; but besides that is there anything hard? Will the harness be plug and play? Should I switch out the EJ25D ECU to match the EJ22? What about EGR b/s? The EJ22 in question. I'm debating it really.

Nah not broken flex plate. The car drives fine ironically, I took it up to 60 to see if I'll get stranded. I didn't. By fine, I mean it runs and doesn't overheat; my reasoning was: never happened to me before wanted to test engine failure complete. AND IT WOULDNT DIE LOL SUBARU!

http://tinyurl.com/sadsubie http://tinyurl.com/sadsubie2 youtube vids! D:

Less then 1500 miles/year. And a bit shy of 140K. Startup is what kills most engines; and it killed mine.

It occured after oil change, drained oil (pretty black) and filled it up w/ 5 quarts. DEADED! IT SPUN! No metal found in oil. Nothing obvious anyway. No seafoam/mmo in it. Bout an year ago (not many miles on it btw.) 10W-40 was oil put in. Previous was 5W-20. Brand was the advanced autoparts special.

Mean subie engine! :'(

Basically, nothing much besides give it gas and a new transmission. Wasn't leaking when I swapped it in, but happened some time after I popped in the transmission, didn't even think about the other seals and such, smart me. Oh and the tires too, but with just 4k on them my new tires have outer wear tear. Alignment is off by one degree (so within spec) so we'll see. Besides that though, it hasn't needed anything not even oil change since I don't drive that much. so basically just wanted to play catchup, get all the parts needed for the big time items (but not the ones that play with the cars timing, e.g. waterpump; I believe it was changed with the timing belt though in the cars past, t-belt is very new looking; NAPA belt.) But I wish to do: Thermostat (going to order this week/next.) Knock sensor (ordered.) Oil change (filter locally, oil as well.) ATF flush/filter I did with the transmission swap so not needed. 02 Sensors (front&rear.) Rear driver speed sensor (need to fix it, someone cut the damn cable!) Brakes (rotors/pads) this one I may toss off to a mechanic for sake of it being done right. typical stuff for a car reaching 140k. So it'd be nice and nice. The knock sensor is giving me the biggest issue though especially since the car pings (even on 93 gas!) if I make it rev high, over 6k+ I can hear it. Plus it retards the spark so the car no go sometimes; even if I floor the pedal it goes as fi it was at idle. Headgasket looks new, I can see a bit of it peeking out on the passanger side where the head and block mean (but eh who knows what that means.) and other misc stuff. it's all within my diy reach cept the brakes don't wana mess with it. :|

Heh, always looks like the oil pan heh... Baffle plate, hmmm.... damn.

My oil pan already has a leak I believe.. right in the back of it... so going to drop it to reseal it with RTV.. might as well clean it you know.