kirbykirb

WELL Worked on it for 2 odd hours, got the engine in, the studs are in place, it's closed. I tapped out the torque Converter bolts so YEAH. BUT; for future reference, when your torque converter is looking like this: Then replace it. I thought it was alright so I didn't go buy a new one, I don't mind doing it again (and ultimatley I'm curious) how long it'd last so I elected to use the one that expanded.

If you happen to need an exhaust I have one avail. all the way from the headers to the muffler. OEM.

Disconnect the battery; and attempt to start the car (this will drain all electricity from the car as the starter will try to engage and can't.) then reconnect it up, the first time the subie turns on; there should be no codes (no flashing AT OIL TEMP) and the instrument cluster should be normal. drive around a bit; and turn the car off. Turn it back on and see if the light will start flashing; if it reflashes then something is tripping the TCU and recording a error. Have it flash you the code and attempt to fix it. For example if it's a speed sensor; match the communication by resistor or such and see if it cancels out the error (if it does, ta-da you fixed the error)

Got the bolts, my they were quiet different then the ones that were in the car. Guess which subaru is going to be back on the road.

La la la This is the subaru flex plate, or as they call it "PLATE DRIVE" 12332AA052 '94, November — '96, June '95, December — '97, July '96, July — '98, May 12332AA071 '97, October — '99, May in case anyone else in the future may need it... As for the bolts needed.. well To save money; I'm going to pull the torque converter out, (or attempt to drill the bolts out with it still in the car.) 800208580 '94, November — '96, June '95, December — '97, July '96, July — '98, May '97, October — '99, May is the bolt; but I'm going to play at the dealers a bit; basically you know compare it to newer subaru bolts (from the H6 w/ 4EAT) and posisbly get those since they can be stronger I guess... since I don't wish for this to ever happen again (ever!) So eh, yeah basically this.

I have tons of EJ25D spare parts (basically a whole long block) if you need anything from it, pm me and we could work out a deal.

But do you think the motor is damaged? I don't believe so, but I'm no expert. I'm reordering the new bolts from the dealer; I'm not going through this BS once again; ever. Twice the flex plate broke; one time before me and another one when I owned it. I have the EJ22 I may just consider swapping in; because I believe it may be in better condition then the EJ25D, but really I don't know. the EJ25D. I thought it was a bad bearing; I really did with the Ej25, but now that I spot its the Flex plate.. I just don't know what to do.

Are you referring to me who removed the engine?

I found the flex plate at the dealer 45$ for a new one; may go that route. As for the torque converter; I found a new one for a newer model 4EAT (B12 Legacies instead of B11) but it is still a 4EAT, and the drawing looks similar so I may decide to get it. I'm not reusing the flex plate because it has failed exactly like this before in the past this time the bolts broke, which is wow cause I've heard often that the PLATE will break! So eh, confusd and stuff.

Alright, after playing with the opposedforces catalog. I've discovered the P/N for the bolt 800208580 you'd need four of them (lol) Which was used throughout the BD/BG series to 99'. Now, would anyone know if a 31100AA911 Torque Converter will fit me? No idea what my Torque Converter PN is, but I have a TZ101Z2ABA-CH transmission (outback tranny in a GT.) 12332AA052 is the P/N of the subaru Flex Plate (PLATE DRIVE) for 95-98 A/T 2.5L EJ25D engine. AGH. The problem though is; why does it keep breaking? It broke before 2 years ago... and it broke once again this time. . I think the car is just being evil.

Thanks, harbor freight in the morning. any idea what size bolts are the ones for the torque converter to the flex plate?

From behind? you mean I can't try to drill it from the front in reverse? (raaaaaaaaaaaaaaage)

Check the TPS, and the MAF. Make sure the airbox is securley tightended and all the black tubes are going into the correct places, pvc, etc.

Sadly can't, my spare part car was a 5mt. Now if you're saying a clutch plate will snap onto a 4EAT... But I think I'm going to try to tap it and see whats up, hopefully I won't have to go to a junkyard and do ALL THIS FSDKFSDFSJAF just for a Flex Plate. (Subaru funfun hour is dancing!) Ironically, I also wish right now I had a manual so I would've have to mess with this bs. :|

WELL... Remember how I said there were no bolts... WELL THEY BROKE OFF. Thats why the car didn't work and the bad bearing sound. Now I have two cars that are dyeing with the flexplate! The outback I've been using is making that sound. ;_; noooooooooooo I know I was sounding pretty stupid, I was wondering myself wtf I was saying.... :eek:so please excuse the ignorance as I give you flex plate theater. oh hay, theres no bolts. I thought someone didn't put them in and I was free! FREE! Zoom up! The carnage! The defendent! The damnd criminal! I guess when I paid someone to do the transmisison swap; they didn't put in the proper bolts needed for the job (yeah they worked; but wern't strong enough, or reused old abused bolts or cut off some, or something I don't know. So, my engine was fine. I was spinning it with a breaker bar on the front pulley clock wise and it turned, counterclockwise and the damn bolt wanted to come off! So, I did a half done engine swap (had problems alining the EJ22 up to the 4EAT TZ102Z1ABA-CH, the left middle stud. So, you know what I'm going to do. I'm going to push in there the EJ22 since I know that works (for now). And figure out a way to tap out the bolts from the torque converter (without having to remove it from the transmsiion; I am SO NOT dealing with having to realign the cooling pump.) Right now, I'm just in rage mode. oh, and if you guys are curious how I'm doing this swap. ;D Also, should I replace the flex plate? I have a feeling it did it before... and reusing it = :|. so bleh. HAPPINESS; OR SO I THOUGHT! Pic of pic of my my setup with my neighbor helping me. we live in garages. :lol: actually my HOA told me if I messed with my subie out in the open.

I'm not swapping in a transmission; but apparantly the 4 bolts and the flex plate are just a cons pricey in needing them. I'm swapping engines. And apparantly :lol:I don't have a flex plate! my car is such a wonder im surprised it hasn't blown up.

Anywho; good luck on the forester!

So, You know those bolts that go on the torque converter right, for the 4EAT's.. basically these one here.. WELL... took me a few minutes when I was turning the main pulley with a 22 socket that there were no bolts! of course I was shocked and then decided eff it and pull the motor a bit. Torque converter is still on the transmisison! no bolts holding the TC in. Now, is this bad or what? I've ran the car with about 10,000 miles with the torque converter like this, no apparent issues I guess. :| Also, flex plate. where is it? It goes on the TC right? this is what im looking for.....

yes it will work! their lego's! make sure to buy new gaskets though, don't reuse!

I like how before it was all "IT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO GET RID OF THE CEL' and now everyone is going "derp if you connect it it'd be fine" herp herp. I'm going to reconnect it so eh, I'm not taping the block/manifold though.

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/4212/img1203p.jpg This is what I mean guys.....

Here's the best DIY EVER on removing a subaru engine; I've followed it and successfully pulled an EJ22 and EJ25! IT is so simple that after the first time I did it; i didn't even have to consult the DIY to pull an engine (albeit, it's about 5 hours from car parked to get the engine out in the heat, 2-3 hours in the shade, so def find shade and don't suffer heat exhaustion/cramps. It sucks..) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t63237-diy-engine-removal.html Plus you'd fit in since you have an impreza.

SO... am I right to conclude that if an car came with EGR, it has those litle fun holes poked here and there for the EGR system. As for example those metal lines that run to the throttle? And when you swap in an non-egr system, what do you do with these possible vacumn leaks? Clog them up or what? :| From EJ25D 1996' to a 1995 EJ22!

Thanks

I figure that funny thing with the 6 bolts.. but is there anything else?