kirbykirb

Mm, alright if a few subie fans are mentioning MOO in the oil instead of seafoam, that is what I'll do then. . And yeah, 200 miles a bit much, I'll do a bit of brisk driving to get 10-20 so miles to allow the oil to flow through the entire crankcase and then drain it, clean pan, new oil and new RTV . Hehe.

I've been using 93 octane, it helps but if I put the car to the pedal max I hear it pinging, it's funny and def is knock sensor.

So, I wish to seafoam my engine, more then just putting some in the gas tank, I wish to put some in the oil, and then drop the pan within 200 or so miles and then in the intake (not directly though, don't wana hydrolocccccck) What are your opinion of seafoaming? I'm planning on using 1/3rd a bottle with less then 2/3 gallons of fuel in the tank and making it smoke smoke smoke, and then 1/3 down the oil for a few miles, to get into all the nice spots, and then the the final 1/3 into the intake.. Hehehe

Heh I wish I got good gas mileage now. I get around 18/20 city and 26/28 highway, it's about average, and I'm sure their original from 96' so time to replace . not a big deal just some extra $$$$ as always. And oil pump, alright won't mess with that. Just it's an essential part so since I'd be doing the waterpump/resetting timing, thought I'd get that clear up.. gunk, grease and 15 years of hell is never good on one of the most cruicial parts of teh car!

Mines interference, 95/96' EJ25D. Special pistons included. . Also, the 96+ 2.2L EJ22s also became interference...

Alrght, good to know... I don't wish to dive into doing resetting the timing for my subie (really scared I'll not align the heads to be TDC..and BOOM.)... But yeah oil pump is one thing I also want to replace because I know it hasn't been replaced in the life of the engine and at 140K (and we use 200K for engine life.) it's about 70% there.. :| ouchie, and most engine problems occur up in the higher 200k+ range because of lack of oil/lubricaation.

Yeah, need platinum plugs. 60$ on sparkplugs, hahaha.

96' Legacy EJ25D with the special pistons . Made in 95', sold as 96 model year, fun fun fun. I'm replacing the guage senders/temp sensor because one of them is faulty; my fans don't turn on if the AC is off; and the dummy guage in the instrument clusters goes high; but the second I turn on AC the fans kickon and the needle falls falls falls. . So since I think it could be the gauge sender; I'm going to replace the other one. Knock sensor, sometimes I hear pinging; and my timing gets retarded. Check engine light isn't on now; but here and there the one for a knock sensor comes on and retards timing and makes driving no fun. . So going to swap in one. Their expensive :|. And I think mine may be cracked from age/heat. Time for change. The other stored code I saw was cat inefficency, could be o2 sensors I guess,, may decide to change them.. prolly should since it's most likley original so yeah thats added to the list, two of them. . Waterpump; I'm not sure if it's been replaced but I assume it has for now, but you're right I should investgate it. just don't want to diy' timing belt stuff (since it runs on the belt..) as for the oil pump; is it removable behind the timing belt cover? (doesn't require engine disassembly?) since that should be replaced too (not just the seal.) As for the cam/crank seals, are those internal on the engine or are they accessible outside? oil filter- oil change was accounted for fuel filter - was in mind, not paper. need to change, it's original. air filter - eh inspected it, fine. As for pcv valve, theres a diy there?

So, my legacy is a bit from 140k, but I want to work a list of what to replace in the next week or so.... Basically just assume everything is OEM what has been done though is timing belt, oil change.. normal fluid changes, etc.. Anyway heres my list: Knock sensor Valve Cover gasket (maybe, inspected one bottom no leaking so we'll see...) Spark Plugs Spark Wires Oil change. Rotors/Pads Brakes. Thermostat... Coolant Temp sensor Temp Sender sensor (for gauge.) What else what else?

Your transmission is going to die. Duty Solenoid C is toast man..start pricing out cheap transmissions..since you have a outback you need a transmission with TZ102z2ABA-CH. This will be located on the bell housing of your transmission, you can see it right below the starter. You can do the transmissiwon work in a good afternoon, make sure you buy lots of fluid and get some lucus oil, it'd make the new transmissiion last forever. I found ebay is the best place to get a transmsision from, since every junkyard near me (bought 3 transmissions near me) decided to sell me broken transmissions (worse then mine which wouln't even at this point engage gears due to torque bind). I did this 4 times,

Oh? Where is that at? In the engine bay fusebox?

Hmm, so could it be the coolant sensor then? Since the radiator fans do come on sometimes by themselves if the AC is off, but quickly turn off again, but if I have the AC at level 4 (which I guess is the override) and AC on. Then the fans are always on and Temp gauge is then level. I think I should do a big run and replace nearly every sensor in my car, speed sensor (prolly ABS sensor as well) and eh.

Thermostat, waterpump and maybe radiator needing replacement? or headgasket?

Yeah turn off all unneeded accessories, when you get to a stop light switch to N and step off the lights, don't use headlights until you have too...etc. That way you can maximise your battery.

Internal Head Gasket leaked; 95% confirmed. Ughh I'm not sure what to do now...either fix it and throw on new cooling system components (thermostat, waterpump, radiator), new speed sensor, new tires, and other misc stuff it'd come out to nearly 2500-3000$ while the cars only worth that barley. I think I'm going to sell it..headgasket is failing and heads are getting warped..

Hehe, thats not my harness, But I'd deeply appreciate it if you could email me a copy of the manual! I found some instructions online but tey were not to descriptive :S

Hehe, wow, that really does make me wonder now.. Would you happen to know if the TCU is propgrammed per transmission? e.g. Lets say my car has an TZ102z1AAA-CH, but now the transmission is a TZ102z2ABA-CH. Would having the TCU from the AAA, and now having it to a ABA matter muchh or not much at all? (I ask because, my tranny has been swapped..and this could rectify alot of problems, if a TCU from a ABA-CH would properly work on mine. now the fun part is to find one; or reprogram my TCU (possible, just need subaru software, and some hardware diagrams.unless subaru's take a k-line connection..hehe

Prolly not But, I wouldn't mind using it to test it out. People have done this before over on NASIOC; and they've said they've gotten more HP, more torque and, no longer needed the premium fuel requirement. But, apparantly theres some knouck sensors or something which will throw the check engine code anyway so not sure about those..but still it's something I'd wana do for fun at the very least. I wonder if the imprezza's TCU is also different from a 4EAT legacy.

Read abit about this on NASIOC. I have a 96, which requires premium fuel and has less hp. If I swap in an EJ25 ECU from an imprezza..would it be a direct swap in? (As both ECU's will be Hitachi's, same pinnouts..) I'd just flash my ECU, I just don'y have subie dealer software or hidash.

My legacy does this too hehe. So I'm not th eonly one!

Pop the hood and look at the transmission bell housing, look a bit over the sticker which'd say TZ102z2...etc. There should be a few harnessses, which if they've gotten unplugged will result in that kinda issue. I've had this happen to me after having a major transmission job so i know the pain you're kinda feelng. If worse comes to worse, it could be an internal transmission issue..but until then..maker sure everything is up and tight!

Hopefully, who knows though..with my subie bleh. Heres some shots of it though :3 thought I'd share the pain that has been making me post on these boards haha. Now I just gotta figure out about this small oil leak, (always keep some oil in my trunk now!) and hopefully nothing else should happen..hmm Though, I did have for a while kinda white smoke come out of the engine bay (I don't see it as often, and not really in a while now) hahah

WTH, I Just came back form class and the bubbles are gone, I had the coolant expansion tank open, and hit the throttle and no more air bubble and the temp guage played nicly this time. Wow, my car = -,-

Will order a new cap right now!! As for the speed sensors, I can't find in the FSM where they are (except the main one in the tranny) but not the other one..I have a 4EAT tranny. Would you happen to have any idea where they would be located at? Or a link to a PDF or something detailing this!? As for the block test, I'll step by a NAPA and see what I can find out. Thanks for that suggestion, I guess this test will ultimatley tell if I have a leaking headgasket to a headgaset issue >_<. rear oil seals are going to be done after I have a final answer to this ongoing problem. hehe

Mm, I did have the problem of air in my coolant tank (e.g. I open the cap I see pretty little bubbles forming at the bottom of the tube) I checked last night about the issue, and it seems they have returned. a bit more agressivley now as well. :S instead of it jus being a lil bubble..its BABOOM in bubble world in the coolant tank (lots of misc bubbles forming). I'm going to once again drive it on a ramp and try to burb it, seeing if it'd help my cause.. otherwise I'd prolly have to get at the very minunium a coolant flush, to see if theres a leak along the system where air could be getting in, or at the very worst a headgasket leak. my subie and me = <3 relleh relleh <3 But, anyway I am just not sure to trust now...my temp sensors may have been right all along and it could've just had this there since the beginning. I just have a sigh odd feeling that it'd be a headgasket leak. Blah.