sleddogg

If you use a EA82 adapter from redline, make sure that all the parts are level. When the adapter was mocked up and held to the light you could see significant gaps in between the adapter pieces that the gasket wouldn't take up. That was the most PITA thing about mine, that and my idle circuit was plugged...but that was my bad. Jesse

I think the real problem is the cop that pulls you over. If, you discovered that it is in fact legal to drink in the bed of your brat, and you get pulled over.....the fact that there are almost no brats around anymore will throw the cop off, and he may issue a citation, thinking he is correct. You may have knowledge otherwise that you are correct, but he feels that a law has been broken. He issues citation and you go to court, prove your right...your still out the time and effort and possibly lost wages to prove yourself to the court. And that's not to say that it wouldn't happen again. Unless you found the ordinance or statute in the books, printed it out, and carried it around with you. But your chances of the cop finding another violation or something go up exponentially at that point. Most cops don't like to be proven wrong, I have discovered..... And hey, if you get too sassy with them, they may haul you off to jail...51% probable cause that your displaying behavior that warrants "disorderly conduct" is all they need.... I have found the less attention I draw from the cops, the better. Good Luck! Jesse PS..I love this post...especially those pics

I guess the use of the language kind of throws people off or on, depending on their stance on some issues. Out here in Oregon (as well as other states) this is becoming a increasingly sensitive issue. But, like all issues there are those that fall in the middle and those that go to the extremes. Unfortunately, out here those that fall on the extreme anti off roading crowd, tend to scream the loudest and make the most noise which apparently perks up the ears of those that make the legislation. Environmentalism is kind of a popular subject these days, not only by those that truly care for the environment, but by those "sheeple" who tend to jump on any bandwagon that comes around. (I refer to those types of humanoids that dont' really care about the issue, but care that their favorite celebrity cares about the issue, so of course, it must be righteous and just...enough to scream and yell about something they have no knowledge or reference of) Once they start in on us, and start depicting us as a bunch of inconsiderate "rednecks" or whatever, more and more people get to screaming too. It's real hard to paint a positive picture when there are so many uninformed people, focusing on the actions of a small percentage of idiots out there being careless. I have always been an advocate of preserving natural habitat, but also working within the boundaries to enjoy our natural wonders, whether it be 4x4 off roading, atv's, bikes, etc. I remember growing up here in Oregon, there were tons of trails and places to go out in the woods to explore, and it was ok. But a small percentage started trashing areas, trespassing and what not, of course ruining it for us all. Now, so many areas are closed, it's hard to find anywhere to get out and enjoy our off road vehicles. Until we start organizing and making as much or more positive "noise" about our hobby, I fear this will be a steady decline for us all.

Sorry I didn't respond on this stuff sooner, I've had a hell of a week. I will try to bleed her out this week, probably get some ramps or something and go for it that way. I suspect it;s and air pocket as well, just seems like a real bear to get out of there Thanks again guys Jesse

That's a sweet Vanagon. I wanted to do that swap so bad when my old Wasserboxer ate itself up from the inside out....but had to cut my losses and run at the time. I have considered doing this to my old '68 Bus, but haven't gotten brave enough yet. Take care, JEsse

Oh my, If that was near me, I would jump on it! That looks like a real find.

Odd thing is happening with my '86 EA82 wagon. I replaced the water pump a couple of weeks ago, and while I doing the job I replaced the little bypass hose and also the thermostat. I got a NAPA T stat, I think it was 195 degree, whatever the factory one is. Now, this is kind of odd. I work graveyard, so when I drive to work at night, the temp gauge will get right up to the Hot mark..not quite into it, just before, and then the Tstat will open and she's down to midway point. In the morning when I leave to go home, it won't do it. Not much temperature change the last couple nights between midnight and eight. Seems to me that the Tstat probably is defective, but wondering if anyone else has ran into that. Also, I get a strange gurgling sound in the dash when I first start it up...air bubble in cooling system maybe? Heater is kind of hit and miss too...doesn't get super warm..even maxed out. I was reading on some other posts about flushing the heater core...my fear is that something like head gaskets are going out, but it runs nice and cool normally, except for that one time in the evenings. The overflow reservoir was nearly empty the other morning. Any idears? Thanks, jesse

Hey gang, I have been lurking for a while, and posted a couple times but got ahead of myself and never said "hi" first. My name is Jesse, I live in Salem, Or. I have a '86 GL Wagon that I picked up last year for cheap and have put very little money into, and transformed (so far) into a fun reliable rig. I used to be into the VW scene pretty much, so it was a natural progression over to the Subaru camp. The more I mess with these things, the more of those old warm fuzzy VW feelings I get in my belly. Cheap, reliable, simple transportation. I have experience in the auto technician world, I used to make my living in an underbody shop doing brakes, suspension, custom exhaust and all that jazz. Now, I have a desk type job, which is the most uninteresting thing I could be doing...but in these times...I don't dare leave it. So far, the wagon is the only Sube in my yard...that will change I am sure. As a matter of fact, an EA81 swap into my '68 VW Bus sounds really interesting, so maybe a half and half in the works. I really, really like this board and love reading the posts here, I was having trouble with my Weber conversion...and got a lot of help from the folks here, of course, my troubles turned out to be something silly and simple...but I am aware of some of the troubles with the EA82 Weber conversions now, particularly the not-so-hot engineering on the adapters.. So that's pretty much it! Take care and hope to get to know all of you soon! Jesse

Right on I was just thinking about gettin one of those old Accel coils...used them for years on the old V8 Chevy's I drove as a kid. Once I get a few more bucks, I will toss one in there. Thanks! Jesse

Well, after replacing hoses, rerouting everything for the weber, and temporarily installing a manual choke (I'm broke now), I finally got to take her out for a spin. Runs great, good power, doesn't bog down, really gets up and moves when I hit the go pedal. I mean, it's not a WRX....but I'm freakin' stoked. Debating on running some advance on the timing. I know there are some posts out there about webers liking a little advance...search time. Again, thanks everyone for the input. You guys rock. Jesse

ALAS! SUCCESS!! The soob is now idling happily....and I didn't have to do half the stuff I had planned on doing today. I took out the primary idle jet and holder and the idle adjustment screw in the bottom. Took the borrowed air compressor (thanks Mike) and blew them both out. With some trepidation, set the choke and turned the key. Let her warm up a touch and blipped the throttle and I'll be damned if she didn't sit there and idle pretty. Reset the mixture, idle speed, timing and all that jazz and she happily sits there at around 750 rpm. I appreciate everyone's input on this deal, I would still be banging my head on this deal without you guys! Naru and GD had both mentioned the idle circuit, but it didn't get through my thick skull until I really read GD's post about it and starting the rusty gears in my head turning. I was sure I was chasing a vacuum leak. Thanks again guys!! Jesse

Hey GD, That would be a good if I didn't have to tear the carb down again. I checked the idle jet the last time I was messing with it. It was clear, as a matter of fact it's a new jet and holder. It had an idle cutoff solonoid when I bought it but they had cut part of it off...the carb didn't even have an idle jet in it. So I ordered a new jet and holder when I got the adapter. I live in Salem by the way. Thanks for the reply. I was gonna ask you if you had any recommended yards to gather up some FI swap goodies. This carb gig is a temporary measure. Ultimately I wanna go SPFI with this thing. Take care, Jesse

Ihscout54, I read through the post that you linked and you said there was some foamy bubbly-ness in your rad...did you ever determine if that was a head gasket? Mine was doing a bit of the same earlier. This weekend, I am tearing the carb down again, soaking, blowing through with a compressor, checking and resetting the throttle plates if needed, checking and double checking the float level, confirming jet sizes, changing the fuel filter and making sure all lines are clear. Also installing a fuel pressure regulator. THEN, I am getting some more carb cleaner, make absolutely sure there are no vacuum leaks and then if if it don't run....... After that barrage, it won't have a choice but to purr like a kitty cat. Oh, Loyale 2.7 Turbo...I noticed that bizarre little vacuum port going to the choke when I tore it down, I am gonna double check that it's sealing good when I go back into it. Thanks!! I will post back when it's all done Thanks a million guys. I can only hope someday I can help some of you with your troubles Jesse

I think you may be onto something with the throttle plates. I took the primary out when I had it apart...I need to check it to make sure that it's sealing properly in the bore. Last time I looked at it looked pretty good, but I wanna put some light above it to make sure. I wonder if the secondary is sealing correctly too....that would effect it as well I would imagine. Thanks for the links and the knowledge that the throttle plates need to be basically closed at idle. I can just see the top transition port when it's closed...but I am gonna try the light method as well. Will a fuel resistant thread sealer be ok on those screws or should I whack them as the factory did? The idle jets are definitely different sizes on this carb. I noticed that when I tore it down, it has the "Big" idle jet on the primary side. I made sure I got that when I ordered it. Webers aren't really known for play in the bores like what was discovered in the Holley 5200's are they? It's gotta be something simple New carb is sounding good...but I would love to spite this thing and get it running Thanks JEsse

After some reconsideration, I am gonna try to get this thing to work..now it's personal I will check to see what main jets it has in it. I think they are 140's already, but will double check. As far the idle jet, when I got the carb it had a Idle Cutoff Solenoid in it with the plunger cut off :-\ So, I purchased a new jet holder and primary idle jet for it. I used the size that was listed on the stock 32/36 DGV that was listed on Carbs Unlimited's website, which was 60. I am pretty sure all the jets matched what was on that site to be honest, but I will double check. I am pulling the carby off again this weekend, I have a friend that is loaning me his air compressor so I can truly blow out all the passages. Maybe some gunk hidden deep down inside. I am also gonna check out the filter back by the pump, I installed an inline filter under the hood, but maybe the other is gummed up. I sure appreciate all the help. Thanks, Jesse

Took the car for a spin after doing all this..runs real good once it's out of the idle circuit, except the throttle is now sticking :-\ The primary will stick at about 2000 rpm and you have to punch it good to get it to go back to "idle". The nut holding the linkage on is not too tight, just one flat past finger, like the manual says...so something else is going on. I really don't have the time to keep fiddling with this carb, and have recieved my wife's blessing to go ahead and get a new manual choke weber in a week or two. I am sure that this carb is usable, but it's gonna need someone with a bit more time to mess with it than me. So, the old Soob is grounded for a bit longer. It's done more sitting than driving in the last six months. Cheaper than a new car though, and cooler too If I had a little more time I would scrounge enough FI stuff to do that...that's the ultimate goal...but I need the car to drive here sooner than I could do a conversion, I'm sure...any thoughts from the FI camp? Thanks again!

I set the float level a little higher. It will now idle on it's own, but it's iffy and takes some coaxing. It won't idle below 1000 rpm and it hunts, which leads me to believe more vacuum leaks...this damn this is killing me. I don't think it's on the idle circuit, cause I can see drops of fuel dripping onto the throttle plate. It's a rough, iffy idle at best. Also, messed with the timing a bit, to help it out, but it's outta range I am sure. The idle adjustment screw helped out a bit, so it must be partly on the idle circuit, but not completely. I am gonna have to get another can of carb spray and try to hunt down whatever is leaking. It's a lean condition, I am sure, as closing the choke plates gives me a higher rpm, although, unlike last time closing them completely will kill the motor...so maybe somothing is improving. GRRR thanks again Jesse

I used a little RTV on that gasket, and no go. I was thinking the same about it would be a small leak. I will raise the float level, and see if that does the trick, approx how much should I see...just eyeballing? If the level is correct? Also, when I was blowing through the idle passages, it was hard to blow through, I mean air went through, but it took some effort. I understand they are small passages, but should it be real easy? Also, the idle jet holders for the primary and secondary both have o rings in place... I will pull the airhorn off again as soon as the rain slows down. Thanks again, Jesse

Thanks Naru, When pulling the airhorn off the top of the carb after it was running, the fuel level looks appropriate, I would say about slightly more than 1/4 full, all ports, jets, etc under fuel level. Fuel isn't getting to the gasket, it's dry. I would say it's definately a lean condition. Closing the choke butterfly manually results in a wonderfully smooth and high idle. I can actually set the choke and it runs good, albeit high rpm. As soon as the choke is opened and it's off high idle and onto the idle circuit, it dies. You mentioned ruptured power valve or choke diaphrams, I replaced the power valve actuator with the kit, and inspected since then, and looks good. The choke deal...I have converted to manual choke, but yesterday I did notice that there was a vacuum port (appeared to be anyway) to the carb to the choke unit. I removed the cover from the auto choke cover to expose the choke diaphram assy. Now, none of this stuff is operaational now, but I see a small port inside there, it looks like a vacuum port, that may be part of the circuit I mentioned a bit ago. There is the diaphram, and a gasket. The gasket is broken. Could this be my monster here? I looked at exploded views of the weber and it does not show a gasket in this housing, only the diaphram....I may be chasing down something entirely unrelated here...i don't know I won't give up, I have been into a couple carbs before, Quadrajets, Holley four barrels, hitachi, etc..and this thing is really basic...that is why I am so frustrated that I can't finger it out Thanks again for the advice and encouragement. Jesse

The saga continues..lol. Well, the adapter plates are now flat and sealing. Hooray! The carb will still not idle.... I can set the choke and it will start first time on fast idle, run smooth and sounds really good. Let her warm up real good and..fizzle. No idle..runs like garbage below 2000 rpm. Actually took it out on the road and it is a huge improvement over the hitachi, minus the no idle problem. So, I suspect that the problem lies somewhere in the carburetor. It was a used unit, that I purchased from a guy that ran it on a toyota pickup. He said it started having "problems", but didn't elaborate..so his buddy hooked him up with another Weber. I put a quality kit in it, soaked in parts cleaner and blew out everything with spray carb cleaner (I don't have an air compressor). I have a little set up that I used to check passages, where I have a small hose with a little nozzle on it that I blew through with my mouth (yuck). Every passage has air (or carb cleaner) coming out the other side when I blow through them. But, that is not as much pressure as a compressor. Alas, I also noticed today while monkeying with the throttle, a small amount of up and down play in the primary throttle shaft....should I worry? A new Weber would be my choice of paths, but my wife is ready to kill me as it is with this thing, and I'm sure she won't go for a couple hundred bucks for a new carb. I noticed that there are some vendors that sell bushings for the throttle shafts. Perhaps I should get some for the primary and maybe have it rebuilt at a shop? I am stymied, and don't have a bunch of money to burn. Any more pointers? Thanks again guys Jesse

Thanks for the reply GD, I was hoping to get some thoughts from you. I have read many of your posts, and they have always made good sense. I suspected the bottoming out bolt problem, and bought shorter bolts for the adapter. I have been careful to tighten them down in a criss-cross pattern so as not to warp or crack the adapter. I will try the sandpaper gig, because these things are not flat. I noticed it before installation, but I guess I put too much faith in the sealing properties of the gaskets. Loyale 2.7 Turbo--I am glad that you responded as well, I have read and re-read your installation and enjoyed your photo's as well. Your wagon is sweet I drilled and tapped out the mounting holes to accept the larger bolts, as I too could see that the screws they sent did not fill the space in the adapter, plus they were too long in the rear and just didn't feel sturdy. I also bought some bolts that were the same style and thread size but slightly shorter, because it felt like the rear ones were still bottoming out. One question; you recommend using shellac on the gaskets...do you mean like the "indian head" gasket shellac??? And if so, do you put it on the gasket only or the adapter as well?? One more thing, that stuff is soooo messy, how long did yours take to dry? Did you let it dry and then assemble or assemble when tacky?? I tried to use that stuff when I was a kid on some valve cover gaskets and made more of a mess than anything else Just curious on your experience on it. Your right, no problems with Power steering...don't have it Thanks for the replies folks...hoping to have another go at it tomoroww. It will be nice to have the old Soob mobile again.

Right-o. That will be the next step..thank you. Jesse

Well, tore down the carb again. I blew out all the passages, jets, emulsion tubes, etc etc etc. I made certain that the idle circuit was clear and that air flowed freely through. I reset the float level, and double and triple checked everything in the carburetor. Crossed my fingers and reinstalled. Gave her a couple of pumps and turned it over. Ran for about 3 seconds...died. Started again, kept my foot in it, runs pretty decent above 2000 rpm, with a bit of a miss. Set the choke and fast idle and was able to coax it to idle on it's own for a bit. Sprayed the carb down with carb cleaner and back down towards the adapter and it smoothed out and idled up. So, vacuum leak at adapter. This time it was very distinct. I am going to pull the adapter off...again. I guess I am going to have to get a block and some fine grit sandpaper and try to get the thing level, get some new gaskets....probably have to get some gasket paper form NAPA or something and make gaskets for it. I am not impressed at all with this adapter. I have bought carb adapters in the past for 4bbls and never, ever have had this problem. I understand it's a different design, being a two piece adapter is 90% of the problem, but the quality control at Redline or whoever makes these things seems to be awful. They shipped weird mounting hardware that is not correct for the vehicle, two of which were too long, I had to run a tap through every threaded portion of the thing. So, any suggestions? Try to make it flat? Send it back? Melt it down and make a cool hood ornament? Take care, Jesse

Hey Skip, I read through that post you just linked. Although my problem is that I have to set the idle screw almost fully in even to get it to run on it's own. However, the throttle plate discussion on that post got me to thinking. I removed the primary throttle plate because I was going to install bearings in the shafts, but changed my mind. I am curious if the plate is in backwards? Maybe covering up the idle port? I am gonna take the carb off again today and soak it in carb soak, and take a good hard look at everything again. All emissions equipment was removed from the car prior to my ownership. All but the charcoal canister, which I hope to implement in my installation. EGR has been removed and capped and I have capped every unused port on the engine I could find. I had a hitachi on it 2 weeks ago that was running real good, so i believe all ports were capped and vacuum leaks stopped. The hitachi decided to start acting up real bad last week, so i figured it was weber time, but now this mania with the weber Again, thanks for all the replies. They has given me to some more ammo to go at this thing some more.

I certainly appreciate the reply. The idle was so insanely high it was real hard to determine for sure if I was getting much difference or if I just wanted to hear a difference. I resealed the adapter again with better sealant, but still getting the same problem. A plugged idle circuit is not out of the realm of possibility. Should I tear it down again and give the carb a good soak in a parts cleaner? "Cause I am willing to do just about anything at this point Also, it seems that when I do get it running, it seems to be spraying a lot of fuel in the primaries. Now, I don't really have a frame of reference, but it seems like a lot. Anyone know what symptoms a car that needs a fuel pressure regulator will exhibit? Again, I appreciate people taking the time to read and reply. I just wanna drive my Soob again Jesse