Olnick

+1 ^. Try the simple approach before you go tearing into the heads!

HLAs = Hydraulic Lash Adjusters. The MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) treatment is worth a try, sometimes the oil flow gets plugged and the HLAs lose their prime.

Ultra Grey is not the anaerobic sealant but it is an approved substitute. Be sure to apply it very carefully--you do not want it to glop out into the oil chamber (and the oil!) Pulling the radiator & fans is an excellent idea, especially for the first time. Makes working on the front end much more comfortable. There are two cam o-rings, one at the rear of the passenger side head and one at the front of the driver side head--behind the cam sprocket. Good luck and enjoy!

Huh? Gotta' disagree with you on that one, davebugs. The screws can loosen on a 2.2 so while you have the pump in your hand you'd best check them and loctite 'em if necessary.

Welcome Bryan, nice looking car. Gosh it makes me miss my old GL and DL. Great license plate too, "XKE!" The Older Gen Forum should be a great deal of help for you. And be sure to learn how to use Advanced Search--that's a goldmine of information. Good luck with the car. Enjoy.

Welcome aboard, Kiwi! My family and I have fond memories of your beautiful country and lovely people. Congrats on your Subie. You'll find lots of good help and info here, but of course regular servicing and preventive maintenance are the keys to a happy life. Aloha!

Tell 'em exactly what you want and tell 'em you want the best price they can give you. They owe you one!

Right you are. There's a Springfield in each of 35 states!

Just be aware that '97 and newer EJ22s are interference engines. '96 and older are not.

How many miles on the car? How do the tires look--old and worn? If you have alloy wheels there may be some corrosion inside the lips, allowing air to escape. You may need to have the tires demounted and sanded smooth . . . and you may need new tires all around. I doubt that nitrogen would help you at all. Re the brakes: After a bit of driving feel around the hub area of each wheel (carefully!) and see if one feels hotter than the others. That would be a sign of brake dragging. Probably not the flex lines. If you find one hot wheel check the pads & rotor. Make sure the caliper piston is not stuck and (most likely source of the problem) make sure the slides are smooth, clean and well greased. Use high-temp caliper grease on them, of course. Hope that's your problem and not torque bind. Good luck. [Edit: Just re-read your original post and saw that you've already changed one caliper. Oh well, consider what I said as "confirmation"!!!]

Sorry you had to go through that bad experience, Fairtax. Let us know how your chat with TIE goes. And if necessary let them know there are a number of us following this story!

You might not have ruined it. You'll need to go back in, pop the piston out and inspect it carefully. If it's scratched or gouged or if there is pitting due to rust/corrosion you will need to replace the caliper. If it's smooth and shiny you can get a very inexpensive caliper rebuild kit that includes a new rubber seal. You will need to bleed the brake lines afterwards. Good luck.

Call Jason, Parts Manager at Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn WA--866-528-5282. Good guy, very knowledgable, always seems to have the best prices. Mention USMB.

It's not a Mitsubishi belt. It's MitsubOshi!

I'm certainly no expert but I find the statement hard to believe. I'm sure it would have been discussed on here long ago if true. My $0.02!

Hi snowdrift, welcome aboard. If you post your question in the "Older Gen" forum you'll get more response. And if you try the "search" function I'd bet there's tons of info from the past. Good luck & enjoy!

Uh-oh, that's not good. The TIE kit we bought last September had a Mitsuboshi belt IIRC. Working like a charm so far. Get in touch with them and let 'em know the problem--maybe they'll offer some relief.

Interesting. When you say "overall poor quality parts" do you mean the idlers and tensioner? Or the belt? May I ask what kit you used? Anyway, glad you were able to "fix" the problem, hope she runs well for you. At least until you're ready to try again!

Love your Li'l Red Wagon! Looks good. Welcome to USMB, old scooby.

Very good! The two most important things at this point are: 1) Make sure the Thermostat is Subaru OEM. No substitutes or "simlar to!" 2) Properly burp the coolant system and add a bottle of Subaru Coolant. And let's hope that solves the problem. Good luck.

Welcome jtrigger. Sorry to hear about your problems. I know little about the newer engines but am sure others who do will chime in tomorrow. Couple of questions--you said radiator was steaming when you took it in, how long had that been going on? Had you noticed the temp gauge climbing or spiking before the car was in the shop? Coolant level okay? How did the coolant look in the overflow--any bits or gunk in it? Hang in there, I'm sure some helpful input will be coming.

Sheesh, you Milwaukee guys are too much! Nice offer, MilesFox.

I seem to recall hearing good reviews of Mizumoauto. Suggest you get in touch with them and ask what gives? Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

'Tis truly a puzzlement. You've done all the right things to make for a happy engine. Frustrating! :-\ I can only hope that you're able to track down the source of the problem . . . and that it's a ridiculously simple fix! Good luck.

Yes, one o-ring for the oil pump. Be sure to remove the pump and check the rotor for loose screws. Remount with new o-ring and anaerobic or ultra-grey sealant. There is also one o-ring on each camshaft--left front and right rear. I think it's wise to replace them since you're so far into the engine at that point! Good luck.