Olnick

My friend, if you can r&r a tranny then replacing the timing belt and resealing the front end is just light recreation!!! Go for it. And welcome to USMB.

I plugged your numbers in--looks like they should fit just fine.

Don't know what is standard or what you have on it now, but you can compare sizes on this site: http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp?item=Wheel-Tire size comparer&sw1=185&ar1=65&bd1=14&rw1=6.0&et1=48&sw2=195&ar2=60&bd2=15&rw2=6.5&et2=40&text1=&text2=

Yeah, it's undoubtedly worn out bushings in the shifter linkage. Can be a real PITA job but definitely worth the effort. Try a search for "shifter bushings"--lotsa' posts over the years. Good luck.

Man, what a bummer. That's even worse than my lump of coal.

Welcome aboard soobies, and Merry Christmas too! You'll probably get more response if you post your question in the Old Gen Forum. Good luck.

If I may stray off topic for just a moment--congrats Cougar on your 5000th post! Merry Christmas!

Mele Kalikimaka to all! Me Ka Hauoli Makahiki Hou!

That's great, Hush. Now you're ready for another 350k+!!! Go ahead and do the knock sensor--it's easy and you'll have a "new car!"

My first thought, like yours, is that it's old axle grease that's been flung around. If so it should burn off in a few days/weeks of driving. If it's fresh oil that's leaking it is most likely the baffle (separator) plate that, unfortunately, requires separating the engine and transmission to replace. Best bet is to get under your car yourself and try to figure out which it is. In either case your shop's explanation sounds a bit fishy to me (and way too expensive!) Where is Vancouver--BC or WA? If you're in WA you have some excellent resources just across the river in Portland. General Disorder (GD) and richierich, both board members who can give you an honest estimate. Good luck.

Here's the writeup by edrach, our resident axle guru. No pix but it's pretty clear what you have to do. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75739&highlight=early+ej+axle Good luck.

Bonjour, mimouss--welcome aboard! Wow, yours is a true Subaru family! I think you'll appreciate USMB, it's a great family too. And please don't worry about your English. You are communicating just as well as anyone else on the board. Tell me, are Subarus popular in France?

Congrats, that sounds great! Sounds like you got the CEL cleared--but if it comes back on during your trip try some parts stores to see if you can get it read. Then post here what it is (by P0xxx number, not by verbal description.) Good luck.

KBB will always be unrealistically high--it's designed as a tool for dealers. Check out Edmunds TMV (True Market Value.) Enter the pertinent facts and you'll get something closer to real-world pricing. Good luck.

Welcome aboard, fearlane. You've found a good place here--lotsa' great information and good people willing to share. Good luck with the project.

Have you tried a local Subaru dealership?

Way to go, Larry!

Here's a pretty good writeup that still exists: http://www.scoobymods.com/legacy-hvac-bulb-replacement-t91.html?threadid=91 Be sure to read the responses about disconnecting the cable.

Just to clarify, EJ22 engines from '95 and '96 were OBD-2 AND non-interference. The interference factor (as I understand it) was due to a head redesign for the '97 and later models. Thus any EJ22 short block should work. Someone correct me if I'm wrong!

Looks good! What size wheels/tires are you running?

Well, you're both close. It's actually pawl.

Welcome aboard, ericjames. Check out Amazon--I got a knock sensor on there within the last year for about $45. If you find one in a Pull n Pay inspect it carefully to make sure it's not cracked. Best of luck to you.

Seth, try a search for "coolant temp sensor" or "ECTS." There are some helpful threads, one with pix as I recall.

Try an extremely fine steel wool lubricated with WD40. Worked well for me.

+1 on replacing the PCV. Be sure to replace the hose that connects it to the engine block too--it can have virtually invisible splits at the base. You can re-seal the front end without pulling the engine. But to get to the separator plate you'd have to pull it or drop the tranny. Good luck.