supradan2001

Mine is identical to it (albeit in much better shape), and it's a two wheel drive. Dan

Yeah, timing on a EA82 SPFI is 20 btdc, according to the underhood sticker. Mine was about 24-25 or so, but I only checked after I could not make it to a 5PM appointment yesterday, because the beast overheated several times. Granted, it was the first time I drove it on the freeway, and apparently the higher speed got the best of the engine. I went home and retarded the timing to about 16, and the thing would barely run, and it was tapping louder. I set it back to 20 btdc. Will have to try freeway driving agai, to see if timing is what caused it to overheat. Outside temperature was about 65F, and radiator level was full, and the aux. fan works as expected. So it's seating at home, while I decide what to try next. The loud tapping underneath continues. It always starts up front (driver side), and it moves to the back of the car. Sometimes it's not too loud, and it doesn't "travel", it dies soon. Then, next time it's loud, the tapping goes to the back. It does it while cruising, decelerating, accelerating, idling, etc. This car is possessed. supradan2001

Being new to Subarus, I can't tell you what Subaru struts or springs to use, but I'm pretty sure that lowering as much as you'd like is purely a cosmetic enhancement. You'll get much better handling by installing KYB or Tokico shocks (or struts, as the case may be) on stock springs, and see how you like the handling. The next step is to get a matching set of stabilizer bars. If you can get an adjustable set, you'll be able to adjust them to your liking. Check with an aligment shop before dropping the car that much, as that kind of drop can often make the car impossible to align. That is definitely bad for handling. Note I'm not saying don't drop it, I'm saying drop less for looks, and get better shocks/struts. My $0.02 Dan

It definitely doesn't have the blue air cleaner on top. It's got the small black boot and the hose coming from the air cleaner. FI'd car? I had forgotten all about the 02 sensor. Just called the store, and it's only $40. I'll have to take a look at it, make sure the connector matches. The oil pressure goes very high (near the 80, or 85 psi, iirc), but it comes down some after the engine warms up. Is this high oil pressure dangerous to the engine? The engine oil is fresh, less than 100 miles on it, and I always keep a close eye on the level. The motor doesn't shake much anymore, but the tapping continues. It taps louder when it's cold, and when the engine is under heavy load. The tapping is definitely coming from the engine, perhaps louder from around the back of the block (towards the tranny). Any comments on the tapping sounds that move under the car? I have ordered a new fuel filter, and I'll run the Chevron FI cleaner soon. I never though this old Sube would be so interesting. Thanks to all who have replied, Dan

Yeah, I realize a zippy car is a very subjective thing. But it seems I'm always slowing other people down (perhaps I can find a GL that runs perfectly, and compare to mine). That's their problem, but I want to get my lil' beast running properly, to its full potential. By the way, above the carb it says PG-FI. Isn't that a fuel injected car? If so, there's no carb to rebuild, right? As for emissions, I got the failing results right here (the applicable standard value in parenthesis). It passed Hydrocarbons with 0.32 (1.60), Carbon Monoxide with 6.11 (15), and it failed Nitrogen Oxides with 3.21 (2.50). By the way, oil pressure is very high, always near the 80 psi mark. Comments, anyone?

Hello there. About 3 years ago I came across this 86 GL SW, for which I paid $300. It was running rough and shaking a lot, and it sat in my garage until I turned my attention to it very recently. It only has 70K miles, automatic, fwd, non turbo. Although the paint was faded by the sun, it has no rust at all, and the interior is almost like new. It even has the original Subaru radio and Subaru floor mats, plus all the original glass (even the "Inexpensive and built to stay that way" stickers are there). A friend of mine got it timed right for me after the distribuitor went bad, and it runs much, much better now. Here are the issues, as I remember them, plus what I have done to correct them: A)Blinkers and hazzard lights don't flash. Fuses under the driver side dashboard are all good. Where are the flasher relays at? B)Timing is set about 20 btdc. Car is still very sluggish, and goes tap-tap-tap a lot, specially when cold. I realize it's no sports car, but it should be able to stay with most traffic. It loses power when it shifts into second gear. It still gets to 50 mph, after a while. If pushed hard it will start to run hot. I've flushed the coolant, installed new t-stat, adjusted drive belts. Maybe related to.. C) After if failed emissions, I replaced the PVC valve, plugs, plug wires, EGR valve. What else should I check? A shop told me the car has two cats, I only see one. Who is right? What else should I do before spending $$ on new cat(s)? D) There's the strangest rapping noise coming from under the driver's feet. Imagine a pipe full of water, and the pipe starts to repeatedy slam against the car. The sound then quickly moves to the back of the car. I have not determined what triggers this event. Of course, this only happens with engine running. I've crawled under the car, and have heard the noise loud and clear, but can't see what's causing it. Anyone ever heard of this? Sorry about the long post, and feel free to take a stab at any of these 4 issues. Great board, and thanks to all who reply.

I wrote: "Turbo lag is a function of turbo size and exhaust resistance. Less resistance=less lag. Your turbo outlet elbow is too restrictive, I'm sure, judging by what I've seen on other stock turbo cars." That's what I meant. I don't think I implied that increasing boost (by use of a manual or electronic boost controller) will reduce lag. :-)

I know exactly what you're talking about. Yes, delaying the pressure signal to the wastegate will increase your boost pressure. More boost--->lots more power (You describe a manual boost controler. I recommend an electronic one). Before you do that, tho', get yourself a freer flowing exaust. 2.5" is good, 3" is excellent. Install a boost gauge. Is your Subaru intercooled? If it's not, don't add over 4-5 psi of boost, or you'll only be introducing heat to your intake. If your car is intercooled, it'll probably take more boost (I don't know what's safe for your car). Make sure your cooling and oiling systems are up to par, new spark plugs, decent octane gas, etc. You might want to check the torque on your head bolts. If the head gaskets are old, you might want to replace them, and install new head bolts, at higher than normal torque. Check the turbo bypass valve. Replace if it's defective. Fuel injector size is a limiting factor. Check out rcengineering.com for that. A pyrometer is a great thing to have. install on at the manifold collector tubo, and don't turn up the boost untill you're sure what the normal value is. Turbo lag is a function of turbo size and exhaust resistance. Less resistance=less lag. Your turbo outlet elbow is too restrictive, I'm sure, judging by what I've seen on other stock turbo cars.

You have Power Windows? You are living in the lap of luxury! My 86 GL wagon has power nothin'. No PW, PDL, PS, turbo, or 4wd, etc. Wait, it's an automatic, so it shifts for me. The only concession to luxury is AC, and a radio (which is the original factory unit). Seriously now, being so new to Subaru, I didn't realize my wagon is pretty much a stripped machine. I like it just as well. Now, if I could just have the luxury of all my 90 hp... Dan