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NinjaTech

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Posts posted by NinjaTech

  1. I understand that if your car looks like it might be worth more than $500 the crowd can vote to have it destroyed. Awesome.

     

    This is true, but the last few races I was in no one got enough votes to get crushed. It's mostly you being a idiot and pissing people off that gets you voted for the crusher.

  2. well if it's in august again I would go with something that can take running in the heat. With our festiva we put in a radiator that was twice as big and had the fan on constantly so it wouldn't overheat. We were running altamont and thunderhill though, I'm not familiar with the omaha track.

  3. Too bad I sold my old lemons Festiva to someone else. I've done 4 races so far. I've been fixing up my old GTI I bought back from a friend for $100. I'm hoping to do buttonwillow in december if I can get enough drivers and the cage done.

     

    With that said I would just go for a legacy since you said you want the awd and an EJ. It won't be as light as an EA car but it will be much easier for you. Just gut it as much as you can. A lot of weight can be saved from removing everything from the doors and just welding them shut. you will also have much better suspension and braking options for a legacy too. An Impreza would be the best but it's very hard to find one for under $500.

  4. Well see...

    My SJR lift isn't 5" just because the suspension is 1" over, it's a 4. All that means is that you'll have an additional inch of ground clearance, with 4" more for tires.

     

    So for a lift like that you'll need 4" strut blocks, and 3" for all the cross members.

     

    If its 4" strut blocks and 3" at the cross members that would be more like a 4" lift. since it's a total of 4". It's just all in how you think about it or word it. You could all it a 3"+1 or some crap. As you can see now what he was saying what exactly what I said he meant.

  5. I'm pretty sure what he means is that it's going to be 5" because he's lifting the body 4" and the suspension will be an additional inch over that making it 5". It's not hard to figure out.

  6. If I were doing it, I would cut the stub, then center punch and drill the head off the bolt and pull the stub out. Once you do that the bolt should just turn out without any tension on it from the stub.

     

    Aluminium isn't going to work - you can't weld Aluminium to steel even with TIG. Just weld a proper sized nut to the stud if you go that route. Then put an impact on it set to a low setting and just hammer on it for a while to loosen it. Should turn out relatively easily though I've had to weld nuts to broken studs anywhere from 1 to 10 times before I got the broken bit to spin out rather than just break the weld.

     

    I would drill the head off first though.

     

    GD

     

    I thought they were aluminum since it broke so easy and is about the same color. I could weld on it whatever metal it is though.

  7. I was starting to take apart my open diff on my wagon to swap my LSD in. I drained the gear oil and then went to break the stub bolts loose and the head on one of them sheared in half. I'm not sure what to do to get the stubs out so I can swap my LSD in there. Am I screwed and have to buy a new open diff?

     

    Also are the stubs the same in the LSD and on the open diff? Just wondering in case I need to break out the angle grinder.

     

    edit: as a side note, if I can't get the diff out. would it be possible to weld it while still in the housing? I could either use my friends 110v mig or his tig machine. The tig is able to do stick as well. what do you guys think would be the best choice in this situation?

  8. You could look around at what guys putting EA81 engines into aircraft are doing. It really depends on how much power you're after too.

     

    Also ACVW engines have dual intake and exhaust ports so they have more potential to flow more air. They also bore them out to pretty big displacements upwards of 2.5L.

  9. Hey, nice looking Wagon, I just got started on mine and haven't even posted on the off road yet. Where did you get you information for DIY 2" lift?

    I am thinking of starting out with a mild lift. Keep up the cool pictures also.

    Here is what I have so far:

    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112653

     

    I just used the search function and end up finding this:

    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103951&highlight=2+inch+lift&page=2

     

    It was really easy to make but I redid the front the other day since I had some positive camber. I haven't had a chance to install them yet. I'll post up pics when I do.

     

    CIMG0847.jpg

     

    CIMG0848.jpg

     

     

    Also, progress on the LSD removal. I rounded off one of the stub bolts since I didn't know it was a recessed torx. So now I have to go get some 1/4 drive torx sockets since I only have 3/8 drive ones.

     

    CIMG0850.jpg

     

    CIMG0849.jpg

     

     

    I forgot to post these pics of what I did to that stubborn busted axle.

     

    CIMG0843.jpg

     

    CIMG0844.jpg

     

    CIMG0845.jpg

     

    CIMG0846.jpg

     

    The splines were rusted pretty good and the PB didn't even get in there at all.

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