killshot_kustom
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Posts posted by killshot_kustom
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What size socket do I need for the rear hub nut?
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I am finally got around to finish machining my hubs for honda rims. I ran into a problem with thne rear drums. The pin that goes through the axle to prevent the nut from backing out, has rusted in. It will not budge, and in my many attempts of removal, I have seemed to snap off most of the head and tails of the pin. Not enough to be able to unscrew the nut though.
The only thing I can think of to do is dremel the pin down enough so I can unscrew the nut.
any suggestions?
oh and its an 87 GL wagon
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I had the heads re-built and surfaced, re-sealed everything, new water pump, new timing belts. Used perma-torque head gaskets. Emisions and EGR stuff gone, webber installed.
heres the compression i'm getting
____Driver_
115 155
125 155
It's smoking white after it heats up, comes up through the engine bay, seems to be comming from the y pipe before the Cat so i assume I have an exhaust leak too. I'm gonna pull my cat and see if it's just residual crap burning off.
Engine got warm pretty fast, I shut her off before she got past half way. I still have to adjust my webber, and thin out my coolant. Grabed the concentrated solution not realizing it and filled up the radiator.
So should I be looking at anything else for the smoke?
What are the factory specs for compresion and the variation?
Thanks,
Dan
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Saw your rig at tinseltown today, looks even better in person, that wet spot on the hood was my drool. How big of lift is that?, and what size tires are those? Any chance I could come by and look at your rig? I'm still figuring out exactly what I want to do to mine.
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I only really did it for clearence for the alternator, I'm hapy with it venting, good enough for me. Lift is on my plate down the road, I have a spare hood for when I get a lift.
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yea I thought of that, I'm not done yet with them, I'm gonna run a baffle down the underneath of the passengar scoop so that the air dumps down by the transmission, the drivers scoop will be for "looks only since it is clearenced for the alternator. It will be plugged off, but look functional. I'm making an intake that is going to pull fresh air from the hole that the stock aribox pulled from. Thanks for the heads up though
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I put the finishing touches on my fresh ea82 install and decided to put a 100w Gm alternator, too much beer and me not paying atention, I made the new bracket too tall and the alternator sticks above the hood line about 2 in.
I could have just taken an hr or so and re-done the bracket and gone back to napa for different belts, but I decided to make a hood scoop
sry for the crappy pics, there from my cell phone. I still have to grind the weld down, bondo, and paint. but it turned out beter than I thought. Plus the alternator sticking up into the driverside scoop looks like a big turbo....
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I never knew such a thing existed (new to soobs), Now I know what that extra cable does.
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Its an 87GL wagon. I live in medford, my soob is at my shop in white city. I filled the coolant passage way where the carb mounts with some metal putty, hopefully it holds. If your in town tommorow I wouldn't mind an experienced subaru eye, but I don't want you to make a trip just for me. Thanks for the help
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need help with some odds and ends. It has a weber. labeled everything well but I missed a few things aparently:
This is obviously a ground, but what does it connect to as I can't find any bolt hole it will reach:
The bottom one I think is the return line for the fuel tank as it smells like fuel, and I can blow into it. The top one I am not shure:
I got rid of my egr. Do I just plug these (in red):
In the above photo there is a little plastic valve coming out of the intake that looks like a "F" that has fittings coming out of it do I plug those or is that needed?
(below photo): The left circle comes out of the coollant tube going to the heater core, does that need to go anywhere or can it be plugged? Can right circle be plugged?:
Thanks for your help guys hope to get her running tommorow.
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I decided to do a lift like yours (87 wagon), I couldn't get any 2x2, unless I wanted to pay $57 for a 5 foot piece of new, so I found a 3x3 piece .250 dom.
I am new to subs, what else (other that the front struts and rear shocks) am I going have to lift/drop, I apologize for my noobness. I am pretty good at figuring stuff out, just want an idea before I tear into the suspension.
thanks,
Dan
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I need to know what torque for Cam seal retainer, I spilled oil on the page in my haynes manual and can't read them. I think is says like 80, but that seems too high? also could I get the cam housing, and valve cover too.
Ea82,
Cam seal retainer:
Cams housing:
Valve cover:
thanks,
Dan
oh, and by chance does anyone know what the threads are for the cam seal retainer (helicoil time)?
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ok. so lets just say, hypatheticly
that I did use the wire wheel on the block carfully (before I asked earlier), short of seperating the case and having the surface machined, what could I do to fix my tard moment..... hypatheticly of course.guess thats what I get for working on my engine when I'm on painkillers.
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unknown. speedo shows 180 ish, but doesn't work.
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I guess it was dark when I tore her apart, but didn't see these till sunlight hit them today when I was putting the heads back on, there seems to be two round impressions at the top of the cylinders from the rings. their smooth, and can't feel any bumps but here is a pic:
All 4 cylinders have this. Is this a problem?
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Ok. just found an old thread that said to put them on dry.
thanks,
Dan
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throwing my heads back on the block. I searched but cannot find info on this: Do I put any form of silicone on their along with the gaskets? my Haynes manual is really vague. Is it ok to use a wire wheel (on a die grinder) on the block and carefully remove the old gasket material? This is my first aluminum engine I have rebuilt...... used to big cast iron V-8's
thanks,
Dan.
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thanks guys, I'v decided to replace it all
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I have my Ea82 out and on my engine stand cleaning her up to put the rebuilt heads back on. I know it is common practice to replace water pump and belts. The mileage on this engine is unknown. It is COVERED in oil though. The inside of the water pump looks like it is brand new, and the belts look brand new also. Should I just replace them anyway since I already have the engine tore apart? Don't want to spend too much money on it, but also don't want to have to do the pump and belts down the road because I was too cheap to do it now.
Thanks,
Dan
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(this is coming from diesel experience), I know that all of my turbo rigs, that after a certain point it did not matter how big of an exhaust I went, it did not increase, or decrease performance. It was explained to me buy the guys at banks, that the turbo alone creates enough back pressure, and the exhaust size is merly going to make the car/truck louder.
not shure how relevent this is for a gas powered subaru turbo though.
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This is my first subaru engine that I have torn into (EA82). I am a SBC guy and a Cummins guy. I searched but have not seen anyone with a painted block. Does this design of engine cause too much heat for the paint, or is it simply just not done (taboo)?
just woundering
Dan
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Thanks for all your help guys. It ended up selling for $250. the engine was way overfilled, and compression was so bad I could turn the engine over almost by hand. passed on it
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It has a wrecked title, but has no body damage. It does not start. It is from a towing service, and the driver got a DWS, so I assume it runs, and the battery is just dead.
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I am looking at purchasing a wrecked (not really wrecked, just doesn't start). 92 subaru legacy. I am only really interested in the engine and harness. (its an automatic and no LSD), to swap into my 87 GL. I would part it out for a few weeks than just scrap it. How much do you guys think I should pay for it considering it doesn't start, and no way of really checking why it doesn't start. (Like playing Blackjack in vegas:lol:).
oh and what yrs were the EJ22's non interference?
Rear hub/drum removal help
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I know it sounds funny, can build a plastic injection mold to tolerances of .0002, but can't get the damn pin to come out. I'm just gonna dremel the end of the pin off then get the hubs apart and take everything inside to my shop and use my 40 ton press to get the pin out. I appreciate your guys help.
Dan