fleming442

So here's the scoop.... I don't need no stinking catalytic converters! 2 weeks ago, I cleaned the MAP/ITS, put a new PCV valve in, and cleared the code. The CEL has been out for the past 2 weeks, and, today, I passed MD's Vehicle Emissions Inspection Program! The state got their $14, and I get to drive the Outback for another 2 years.

I get that; it's just that I figured Fuji would have optimized the volume for max efficiency. I think my pipe may actually be smaller in diameter than factory, just straighter and smoother. Venturi effect anyone?

In a typical RWD vehicle, that would descibe a pinion bearing on the way out. Would it be possible to pull the rear d/s and see if it still makes noise, or would all the fluid pump out of the transfercase?

As if you don't have enough going on in a crash, you want your belts to explode too? I don't get it. Airbags are bad enough. sheesh:D

loose battery terminal- make sure it is TIGHT. only speaking from experience........

So, Saturday night at about 1am, the drunken hotrodder in me came out. I have an 02 OB 2.5 and had heard tell of making cold air intakes out of PVC. Basically, all I did was remove the baffles in the tract between the snorkel on top of the rad. support and the airbox, and replace them with a straighter pipe. Now, I know the baffles are there to trap/drain water and quiet the intake. I'm a gearhead, so a little intake noise actually makes me happy. Also, I doubt that much water will actually get into the airbox, as the snorkel is above the grille opening. The odd thing is; it seems to have more mid-range power (2-3000 rpm) and it improved mileage by a mile or two per gallon. Go figure. Am I suffering from "an oil change/ car wash makes my car run better" syndrome?

Awesome. You may want to plumb for the wet system while it's apart........ just a thought.

FWIW, I cleaned my MAP/ ITS, IAC, replaced my PCV valve, and the hose leading to it. It smoothed the idle out and (knock on wood) the CEL that had a cat code has been out for 4 days.

Could be, but I cranked it in there pretty good. I'm sure the hole was small enough to get clogged with rust fairly quickly.

I am here to confirm that thinner/ synthetic oil reduces piston slap noise dramatically. I switched from Castrol 10w-30 to Q Horsepower 5w-30, and the noise went from "a rod coming through the block" to "exhaust leak" levels. actually I just wanted to use the banana

I would............ BUT, when I changed the rear one last time, it pulled the threads out with it. Then, I cross threaded the tap back in...... Oh the humanity!

Get a 4'x4' piece of 1/4" Masonite from Home Depot. Trace floor onto it. Cut out. Coat both with Weldwood contact cement. Press together- wallah! Reinforced and repaired!

nipper, don't get me wrong. I value your advice as you seem to post good info. I'm guessing you are a dealer tech, no? However, I find it extremely hard to believe that a product that is so near indestructible is going to be so finicky about whether its parts come across the dealer counter, but I have been wrong before. I am also a cheap bastid! I got a code scanner that displays the freeze frame of what caused the code. It said it happened at 2825 rpm with a MAP of 65kps, blah, blah, blah. I found what Subaru calls a drive cycle- damn near impossible unless you have a test track in your back yard where you can sustain 60mph for 20 min., idle for 10, get to 60 in less than 20 sec., then start, stop, etc! Asinine! I guess I'm buying $800 worth of exhaust ***************.

Yes, the SeaFoam was drizzled in the vac. line. nipper, the O2's were Bosch (non-dealer purchase). No, I haven't checked the system for leaks. I'm thinkin' I may just buy the NAPA converter for $350 and get the ebay headers if I do anything with the exhaust. I'm going out to the garage now to put the PCV valve I got from the dealer for $17, clear the code, clean the IAC, and change the oil. I really need to know what the Subaru ECU considers a "drive cycle". I need to take it through MD emission testing, but they won't even look at it if the CEL is on. The last time I took it through, I was being crafty, cleared the code, and drove it in. They told me there wasn't enough data to test. So, I need to get it in there when it has enough data for testing, but hasn't triggered the CEL yet.

I'm going to throw this out there as a n00b here. I tried the search with little to no avail- I'm semi-'puter illiterate. I have an 02 OBW 2.5 that has received all the usual tuneup parts recently. That includes: O2 sensors,plugs, wires, PCV, SeaFoam upper engine treatment, and 3m throttle plate cleaner. I refuse to believe that the cats are bad at 142k. It just doesn't seem right. Now, I've seen on another board, many people fork out the cash for new cats, and they claim it fixes the problem. I've also noticed that there can be many causes for this code popping up. I suppose I could throw enough money and parts at it to make myself feel better,but I would like to fix the problem correctly.:-\ Also, what is the body/ engine designation for this model (i.e.- EJ22, etc)? It is so I can make better use of the information already here.

I think I have finally found my people! I recently bought my 02 OBW and am looking for low-buck hop ups/ tech advice. I work on my own stuff- not some pansy that runs to the dealer for an oil change (you know who you are!). Looking forward to some good times:headbang: