fleming442

Just throwin' darts in the dark, but..... wouldn't an over-rich condition throw an EGR malfunction? I was just thinking that a valve stuck shut would be rich and one stuck open would be lean. So, if something else caused the mixture problem, but it wasn't enough change to trigger P0420...... Just thinking out loud; don't hang me yet!

It's just a piezo transducer. I can't imagine the factory part being any better, and for 1/2 price- how can you go wrong. They are listed under "emissions" on rockauto.com.

AAAH! Ya got me. $43. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php I was thinking of my truck; where I got BOTH for $22 ($11 ea.).

Someone asked if anyone used Max Life. I put about 4qts. of it in when I did the precautionary " I just bought a car with 100+k mi.- I'm changing ALL the fluids" change. So far, in my '02, it slips a little in forward engagement. It looks like another change, filter, and some Trans X are in my future.

What research? A knock sensor is about $20 and takes 5 min. to change. Have fun!

Just wondering what the popular consensus is for water repellant latch lube........ The wife aborted mission on our 02 OBW because the door wouldn't latch. I was just going to squirt some WD-40/ JB-80 followed be some GM Lubri-Plate. Any suggestions?

The plug on the left is more than likely the changer.

That kinda defeats the purpose of digital music, no? Why not get the aftermarket with a changer? Then you could have like 210 CDs ripped to MP3! Or, if you're hellbent on keeping the factory, get the in-dash 6 disc changer like I have in my '02. Heck, if the price is right, I'll sell you mine!

A reputable stereo shop should be able to point you in the right direction. Peripheral Products makes the adapters that would let the fact. unit talk to the consumer model. However, you may be out of luck considering the vintage.

Also try cleaning the ITS/MAP with throttle plate cleaner. I'm 90% sure it was either that, or the pcv that kept mine off. Similar car/ miles

Put some thinner oil in it. It worked for me!

As far as the rattle/click/ whatever goes, check the little rubber grommet that holds the hood prop rod to the rad. support. Mine was driving me nuts because it squeaked intermittently! $3 @ the dealer.

The 5 parking light flashes are probably some sort of trouble code. You have yet to tell anyone what brand of r/s you have. The two hood beeps could be a 'hood ajar' code for the factory system. I would love to help, as I installed mobile electronics for 8 yrs. previously, and enjoy a good challenge. However, these things are hard to diagnose over the 'net. If you want to research it yourself, punch the make/ model of the staretr into google. Once you get to a manufacturer page, look for an owner's/ installation guide. It should have the 5 flashes as a trouble code in the troubleshooting guide. Or, you could just look in the manual the dealer gave you.......

Just to clarify for those that may actually help, did you get a vehicle speed sensor or a speedometer?

Check to see if they installed a switch on/ near the hood. It could be making the remote start think the hood is open in extreme cold. Or, (I'm not sure if 09 Subies have one) the passive anti-theft system may not be getting bypassed correctly. My suggestion- move. What the hell are you living in -30* temps for?!?!?

I called bad ground! Glad you got it straight, crash! For what all you got done at the dealer, a G doesn't sound too bad. Tip: dryer sheets repel mice in stored cars. Maybe wire tie a couple under the hood?

OK, as soon as I posted, a bunch came up at the bottom. I'm still open to suggestions........

I saw somewhere that the fuel rails on an EJ25 (?) tend to leak. First of all, I have an 02 OBW 2.5/auto. Is that the EJ25? I did a search, and came up empty. Can someone point me to a thread or TSB#? I'm concerned about gas fumes+ hot exhaust = FIRE. I have AAA, but would prefer not to use it on a Car-B-Q.

grossgary, I do most of my own work. I was thinking more for parts than any thing. Subyrally, PM sent.

Subyrally, do you own/ work at the shop near/on Franklin or East St.? I was seeing the signs on East, but I believe a bodyshop moved in, but I think the sign moved over to Franklin.

Sorry guys, I stopped checking this thread after about 2 weeks- no replies. I'm actually smack dab between ya in Mt.Airy (across from Black Ankle vineyards if you fancy the dead grapes). Is there anywhere to go 'wheelin around here? We used to invade the quarry in Mt. Airy, but it doesn't look like you can get in anymore. I have an 02 2.5/auto (wintergreen?) that I picked up as a commuter. When the tax check comes, I'm planning on sway bars, rotors, timing belts, tensioners, and seals. I bought it @ the Manheim auction as a commuter, as I work in B'more. Is IAG on rte. 140 in Finksburg any good. A friend had a 2.5 SB dropped in his WRX there, but I don't have $5k to spend.......

Yeah, they're called roller cams.... Actually, I use Justice Brother's 'heavy duty vehicle' oil additive in my Oldsmobile. Thanks for the Subie info!

n00b alert! Does the Subie setup classify itself as a 'flat tappet' type arrangement, or has the cam follower got some sort of roller deal on it? The reason I ask is: The American Iron crowd (myself included) has been up in arms about the decrease in ZDDp in oils lately (which flat tappet arrangements benefit from). I have been considering a drop to 5w-20. Does the above OP mean this is actually a factory recommendation?

I just went through this on my Chev. truck last year. First, might I add that shorts are highly unlikely unless the car has a history of an accident. Given your harsh climate I am going to suggest the same problem I found on my truck. It was a loose ground on the engine block, corroded from salt. Get a wiring digram, and trace out your grounds on the affected circuits. Give them a good tug/ wiggle at their attachment points. If one comes off (like what happened to me- took me 2 weeks to figure it out and find it!), replace the ring terminal, and your problem is solved. My other suggestion would be a blown bulb, maybe the DRL. If a bulb blows on a normally closed circuit (DRL), it can draw another ground from some strange places (turn signal/ brake). I also do not discount the battery or alternator suggestions. They are very plausible. The bottom line is: you need to go over it with a fine tooth comb, wiring diagram, and a good VOM. Hope this helps.......

I'll take my chances...... If mine does get a blown HG, it's an excuse for a rebuild. How much overbore can one of these take? Anybody got a rod/ piston combo for a stroker figured out? More power!