drew440

I did that test and could not get it to make the vibration. I will go back to the tire store on Saturday and have them double check the balance of the tires. Thanks.

I will check that this weekend. Thanks.

Had the tires checked and the alignment checked as well. The CV joints are in like new condition along with the struts. It definitely appears to feel like a mechanical or drive train deal. The thing feels like its shaking apart along with the feeling that the drive train is faltering. Could torque converter give that kind of impression?

What would cause the car to shutter at precisely 35 mph? The car just turned 38, 000 miles. It does stutter or bog a bit when cold when first starting out in the morning, but do not notice it at any other time. The shuttering can be felt through the gas pedal, like it is either the automatic transmission or possibly a fuel starvation issue or? I am not a mechanic and do not play one on TV so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I use 15w40 Shell Rotella. It seems to do well and I change oil every 3k. I run that oil in everything and have not had any issues. I agree with the keep it clean theory. I had a diesel rabbit that I ran Mobil 1 in and changed it every 3K along with the fuel filter and air filter. It had 31K on it when I got it and it had 131K when I sold it. Never an issue but it was overkill. At that time I also bought in to the theory that if it costs more, then it should be better. I have a serious drag car with 957HP (Dyno) and it burns E85. I run 15w40 Shell Rotella in it. It has around 25 passes on the engine. I've changed oil in that engine 5 times (9 quarts) and have looked everything over to find no wear issues. If you keep the oil from breaking down, I think you could use any quality oil and be fine. Just my 2 cents worth.

Mine is only 2 wd in the front, and it handled great in the snow. Only thing I don't really like is that it is a 3 speed and has no real overdrive and the fact it really doesn't like 87 octane gas so I use premium fuel and it seems not to ping using it but the cost is greater. Other than that it functions properly. The guy I got it from said that the a/c works fine but it will shut off and you have to turn it back on intermitenly. What do you think that could be? Thanks.

You would not believe how much crap I had to eat over this one. I sold my 1991 toyota corolla all-trac wagon with 52,000 original miles and kept this subaru as we are down-sizing the vehicle situation around my place. That car was perfect as well. I always heard that subaru was a good car and it was in near new condition with only 28,000 miles so I took the leap and kept it. I hope to have many miles and good memories with this one. I really appreciate this website and all of its members for helping me with this situation as I have gotten to know the vehicle better. I have been offered more than I paid for it several times, but I hate to get rid of it as I really don't know what I would get to replace it. Thanks again for all of your help!

I think I have it! I was under the dash and saw these two clear plastic conectors that looked like they belonged together and plugged them together and whala it fired right up! I have absoltely no idea how they came apart. What are these connectors called? They are kinda long or wide and clear or opaque. I really appreciate everybodies help! I hope this fixes the problem!

I'll try it! Thanks.

It is a 1993 Subaru Loyale 1.8, automatic, with a/c, power windows and locks, tilt wheel, rear window defogger and clock. Pretty nice car with 28,000 on the odometer. That is why I purchased the car because of its condition and miles. Not one spec of rust anywhere underneath or on top. Interior is perfect as well. It was as close to a (new) used car as I could find for the money.

I'll do it. I noticed that when the key is in the on position I can push in the button on the auto shifter and it clicks at the ignition cylinder where the key goes in. Is this normal? And the shifter will not move unless I push in the shift over-ride button. Could this be a neutral safety switch problem?

I'll start checking that in the morning, thanks.

I know. It is just totally crazy. Do you think it could be a ground?

I checked them with a volt meter. I have 13.48 volts at the fusible link and 13.44 at fusees 11 and 12. I replaced the ignition relay and I have power going to it. I will check, recheck power at the ignition switch. I guess I'll try and find some more grounds to check. Thanks.

I checked the link and it is fine. Can anyone tell me if anybody in my area can help with this? I'm in Muncie. IN.

I'll double check that link. thanks.

What could it be? I really need this car in service!

I will keep checking grounds and anything else I can find. Just tried the used ECU and that did not work. Back to the drawing board. I will try to post pics soon. Any more ideas on what to check? Thanks.

I do not have a white wire in the fusible link area located in the engine area. I replaced the ignition relay and the coil. I am going to go and get a used ECU today so I can rule out the ECU. I hope this will work. Thanks.

I am out of time for this day. I will test that relay in the morning. Thanks again Gloyale and all others for your help. I cannot think of having this car out of service any longer as I am taking quite a lot of you no what from my toyota pals over this. They are relentless in geers and jabbing fun at my little falty car. It is quite sad to be honest. Of course all they can say is that I should have kept my All-Trac Corolla Wagon and I would be driving it instead of working on it. I'll let you guys know what I find out in the morning. Thanks again.

Ok. It is the brown looking small box on top of the steering wheel bracket correct? And thank you very much for all of your insight on this deal.

Is this relay a dealer item as I have contacted the parts store and they do not list one for this model?

Come to think of it I do not hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the on position. Is it already primed as I have tried to start it several times? I did the little test with putting a little fuel in the throttle body and then trying to fire the engine. I then moved to the spark tester and concluded that there was no spark. I am not getting any power to the coil period. I did the ohm test and it is within spec according to the manual. What is this amplifier (transistor) thing mounted to the bracket below the coil. I didn't get any juice at this thing either. I keep trying to eliminate things and I'm still in the tracking mode. To tell you honestly the car is like brand new! It is originally from Florida and now is in Indiana. I tried to locate all of the grounds and took them apart and sprayed PB Blaster on them for added insurance, but they all looked perfect as well.

I went to every fuse in the block and made sure the voltage was perfect. I even took every fuse out and replaced them with new ones even though they were perfect. I took all of the fusible links out one at a time and inspected them and they were perfect as well. Horn and flashers work perfectly. How do I test the ECU? Could it just go bad? I'm beginning to look in that direction as everything else I've tried to test is perfect. Could someone tell me what is up with the little screw in the rotor button! Who the heck designed that little jewel! A complete blind set up in that! I ended up stripping the screw trying to put it back in and when I called the parts store they said the new rotor doesn't come with a new little screw! I guess I need to walk away from this for a little while and do some brain storming on what could be the cause of this malfunction on an otherwise perfect little car.

Yes it is the TBI or throttle body type fuel system. I thank you. I will concentrate my efforts on these systems.