soobcollektor

I've never heard of that before, Should I do it to the connectors inside the car or under the hood as well? Could it really be in limp mode and what if I disconnected the battery, would that reset anything? Tim

I checked everything on the interior, everything is clean absolutely no signs of water, and really no sings of anyone covering it or cleaning it up, Car has that LL Bean leather smell and everything. The OBD2 connector looked fine also. Im just clueless, I always seem to get the impossible ones to diagnose, granted the car was cheap but still.. Thanks for everyones help and keep those suggestions/ideas comming. Also, it seems to be DRINKING gas, it had a complete full tank when I brought it home and just from some idling and a few illegal trips for test runs its gone down like below 3/4...that seems alot to me unless its got the typical subaru gas guage problems Tim

Just got back from reading the codes, or at least attempting to. I tried probably 20 times and got an error message every time. I cant get it to link with the scanner, I know the scanner works because I linked up my 99 Outback and it worked no problems. Could I possibly have a bad computer. There is power at the cars connector because it turns on the scanner but just gives me an error messageafter trying to connect to the car for liek 5-10 secs., I wiggled and jiggled the plug and still nothing, yet when hooked up to the 99 it was fine. I have gotten somewhat of a history on the car, the car was a flood recovery vehicle, but I see absolutley NO signs of water in the interior at all, could it possibly have fried the computer since they are on the floor? I have pulled trim pieces and smelled sound insulation NOTHING as far as damp or water, but maybe just enough got on the inside of the car and hit the computer I dunno. Car absolutely will not start until I hold the gas 1/4 way down and keep it there or it will stall until the temp guage is at 1/2 then it idles roughly at 400 or so RPM and dies when you rev it up (rpms go up and instead of settling back at 400 it just dies) Any Ideas?

Update: I borrowed an OBD2 code reader reader, I'll check the engine for its code(s) and post back what I find out. Thanks

Yeah the car will start without me pressing the gas pedal but it immediately dies after that unless I give it gas and keep the rpms up (+/- 2000 rpm). I have to do this until the car reaches operting temp or it will stall again. ~tim

Seems to run fine when driven, just a bit sliggish sometimes others it accelerates fine, 90,000 miles No service history And nothing under the oil filler cap or even in the oil as I just changed it. ~Tim

I really couldnt tell you the history of the car, the car is in good condition and as far as I know there has been no major repair work done to it. No modifications have been done to the car either. The problem has been happeneing ever since I bought it, thats why I got it cheap. I filled the gas tank with 93 octane when I brought the car home but that gas is still in there. Subeman, The Subaru guy in Meadville i'd prefer not to deal with, hes flat out a con artist, not to bash him on here but you should see what he sells and how much he sells it for, plus my mom's b/f used to know him and could tell you some crazy stories about stuff hes done. I also work with an ex-mechanic of his...trust me, abslutely unbelievable. Anyways, the car is at my dads, its where I store most of my vehicles because my appartment here in Meadville doesnt have the parkign accomodations for more than a few cars. I found a code reader at wal-mart, I think im goin to buy it and use it then return it when i'm done with it:grin: That way i'll have some idea of codes to post on here and a little more info to work with. Thanks tim

Awesome thanks so much I really appreciate it... my e-mail is soobcollektor@hotmail.com Would the ecu temp sensor cause a fluctuating idle also, before this started happening the car start right up and stay in high idle no matter how warm the enine was, then after you took it for a run and shifted into park the idle would go up to around 1700 then down to 750 then back up again very rapidly, Then one day I started it and this happened no start and extremely low idle once warmed up. Thanks again Tim

What is an AMM? ANd where is it located on the engine, Is there any way to test it other than reading the codes? ~Tim

I asked autozone if they rented them and the store around here said no unfortunately. Once its warmed up it runs ok but still only at 500 rpm or so and if you rev it up sometimes it will stall once settled back to idle. If you drive it (unregistered, uninsured, etc on back country road) it drives ok but isnt very responsive. Any ideas on what could it be? Thanks for the help, i'm a total newbie to these 3.0 H-6's Really is an amazing engine though and sounds alot like the 3.3 in my opinion. Tim

My 02 Outback with the 3.0 has a hard time starting when the engine is cold, if you stay on the gas it'll stay running but as soon as you let off it dies. Once you get the engine warm it'll idle but very roughly at about 500 rpm. But wont stall (usually)....sometimes turning on the A/c helps keep it running also. The CEL is on but I have no way of getting it tested because its not registered on the road yet and i'd like to get it fixed before I start driving it. Any ideas? Thanks..Tim

I took the Plastic cover off of the top of the engine trying to locate the IAC. There are 2 sensors located on the throttle body is it one of these? I also noticed that when it is at idle and the A/C cycles on the idle stops going up and down and levels out but stays in high idle...Around 1300 rpm or so. Anything else I should look into?

Rcoaster could you tell me where the IAC is? Please help i'm clueless when it comes to this engine Thanks in advance...

IAC, yeah thats what I was thinking, the idle is so rapid up down up down quite fast whether the A/C is on or not. One more thing, where is the IAC located on this engine, as I said i'm extremely new to these 3.0's and dont have any service manuals on them (yet) Any other possibilities that could cause this idle problem that I should look into? Thanks

I just picked up a perfect, minus a few quirks, 02 Outback LL Bean Anyways it has around 90,000 miles on it and the Check engine light is on. It starts up fine but idles at 1200+ rpm no matter how warm the engine is and you can't get it to "kick down" I you drive it it seems to run fine just lacks a little power, and usually when you drive it and park it the idle starts to fluctuate up and down really fast almost as if your sitting in the seat and reving it up, then letting off, then revving it up, then letting off and it does this until you either put it in drive again or shut it off. What could be causeing this, possibly an idle air control vavle maybe? I dunno. Any help on this is certainly appreciated because I am very new to this 3.0 engine. Thanks,

I know this may sound wierd but ive used brake cleaner, like Brake Kleen or whatever brand you prefer on spots on my interior all the time, works great in removing grease from floor mats and etc. Just test a small spot that you cant see first, and spray some onto a rag and it'll clean it right off. Tim

Thats what I was thinking, they originally wanted 11,000 for the car, But I offered to buy it as is to get a cheaper price and pin pointed out all its lil problems and they only came down to 8500 AFTER the headgaskets went. Should this be something I should look for in the 00 and up, I know that they leak EXTERNALLY but I didnt think that they would be internal and cause overheating like that? I guess I'll definetly pass on this one, Like a97obw said, who knows how long its been overheating and stuff.....Oh well If anyone knows anyone that has a nice 00 or up Outback Limited, I really only want the limited, feel free to shoot me a PM or let me know, i'd really like to find one thats in good shape, dont care how many miles are on it. Thanks Tim

My 95 Legacy LSi might be totalled, (elderly lady drove right into it when parked) So I test drove a 00 Outback limited today....... The first part of the drive was smooth, car is AUTO, AWD with 98,000 miles. Seemed to start hard maybe a low battery I dunno, but everything checked out okay, then when I started driving it hard it overheated immedietly. Temp guage was pegged, didnt think that happened on the phase 2's. Guess I was wrong........ Anyways the salesman was with me and this was after I explained to him that I was a tech's assistant at the dealership right up the road and I explained to him all the problems of the Phase 1 and Phase 2, 2.5. Then it overheated....LOL ironic. They want 8500 for the car as is as it sits with the over heating problem? I dont know to much about ricing on these vehicles but does that seem high? It does to me but I really wanted some differnt peoples opinion. Thanks

I just had that happen to my 99 Impreza, tunred out to be the spring bolts rusted away then fell off, easy fix, dont know if this is your case or not but worth a look. Tim

Interesting, I will take a look at that pump unit itself tomorrow and see about that relay, as for now she is driving it with the fusable link out so it wont run.....I'll post back what i find... Thanks

My mom called me today all frantic to tell me that there is a motor humming sound comming from under her hood whether the car is running or not (95 Legacy L Sedan AWD 173,000) Well trying to explain to her what to do over the phone didnt work, so 2 hours later I get there to look at it myself, The ABS motor is running non stop, doesnt matter whether the key is on or off.....what gives? The brakes still function completely normal and the ABS light is on, what in the world is causing this, I pulled the fusable link under the hood to shut the motor off, It was the red on in the front of the box and the ABS motor shut off. It was a little warm after running for 2 hours, but i'm completely stumped, I thought most everything got its power shut off when the key is switched off so what in the world would cause the ABS pump motor to run like that? Confused as hell, Tim

Yeah sometimes it idles a bit lower when you pull up to a stoplight but it seems to correct itself. The last tank of gas I got much better mileage and the CEL light is still off, so maybe your problem is a bit different? What other symptoms are you having?

My 95 EJ22 slaps when realy cold only for a short time though- 173,000 miles My 99 EJ22 slaps quite loudly until warmed up- 146,000 miles My 91 EJ22 never slaps regardless of temperature, 180,000 miles -Tim

Thanks everyone for your help, I thought i'd post back and let everyone who was following this thread that I am pretty sure that I have the problem fixed. I bought a new MAF sensor at the dealer 44 bucks, which suprised the hell out of me, expecting to pay WAY more than that. Installed it and all seems well, It also seems to have fixed a slight transmission shifting problem that I was having, (having no idea that the MAF affected this) Thanks again to everyone who offered their insight on this, what an awesome place for Subaru owners, Tim

I just finished installing the guage pack in my 99 Impreza, the one that shows the compass, altimeter, barometer, etc, etc. Anyways, I got the stuff from a junkyard but didnt get the temp sensor that mounts behind the grille. My question is, I have an almost complete XT-6 parts car (anyone need parts?) and was wondering if the temp sensor in it, the one for the trip computer, would work for my guage pack? Anyone ever done anything with these sensors before? Thanks