soobcollektor

I think that they both have the same carb. They look the exact same when you take the air filter cover off. So I shouldnt have to worry about swapping the manifold will I? All this carb stuff is new to me as everything I own is fuel injection. Thanks ~Tim

Very well could be, i'll try seafoam in it when I get it all changed out. Is there any tips/tricks anyone would recommend when I pull the clutch off and put it on the new engine? ~Thanks

Really, thats cool. I did notice that even though they are the same engine they sound entirely different when they idle, the 82 is extremely quiet and the 86 has much more valvetrain noise (its not ticking, just louder). This seems odd cause I would think it would be the total opposite... This is my first job in swapping out a clutch, ive removed lots of engines but never had to deal with any clutches and i'm really not sure what all is involved. Are theyre any electronical differences I have to deal with since the 86 is 4 years newer? Thanks ~Tim

Quick question, I'm changing the motor in my 82 GLF 1.8 EA-81 5 speed, I have a donor out of an 86 Hatch auto which is also an EA-81? Will they swap out, if not what needs to be changed or altered? Thanks ~Tim

Well there is vacuum comming from the pcv valve so I dont think it is plugged, th smoke is actually very light almost sometimes like steam that hangs in the air for a long time, sometimes its more of a bluish tinit thoguh it just varies, the car always seems to be low on antifreeze also, but if it were a bad headgasket I dont understand how the PCV hoses would be blowing so much smoke, because there is no sign of water in the antifreeze. Still dazed and confused ~Tim

So weve narrowed it down, is it possible that the rings would go that fast, it was fine until the trip on the highway trip, I also sprayed carb cleaner in it before we took it on the highway....could that have anythign to do with it. Anyways what do you all suggest that I do, should I pull the head? If I pull the head how will I be able to tell if the rings or the vavles are bad? Thanks everyone for all the help, it figures my journey back into old gen soobs turns bad quickly :-(

Ok so heres the official compression test update. I borrowed a compression gauage and checked it out last night, The number 3 cylinder has about 57-60 psi. I checked it warm, the number 1 had about 120. So does this help to indicate what the problem is? Could it really be the rings? The smoke isnt completely blue and sometimes it looks almost white when it comes from the exhaust. Car doesnt overheat but it is definetly blowing by into the PCV system and also somehow getting into the exhaust and smoking badly. Thanks in advance. ~Tim

Stuck rign ey? That may be it but would it be fine for a while then after an extended highway trip it start doing it, thats what caused it, I got off the highway and it started smoking and hasnt stopped since. Any ideas?

I originally was thinking that it was PCV also but it smokes forever right out of the pass side valve cover, its puffing just like an exhaust pipe and does it continuiously. If i take the line off of the PCV it has a vacuum comming from it. But whenever you take anything off the engine like the dipstick or oil fill cap it smokes out of them like crazy in a steady puff for as long as its running. I'm going to try to check the compression on it today and we'l see where that leads. Thanks ~Tim

Hi Nipper, Sorry about the mileage, it has around 160,000 on it. If in fact the engine is bad does anyone have a good EA-81 laying around? I'll do a compression test and post the results. Thanks ~tim

Hey everyone, its been a while since ive done anythign with an old school soob but just recently I bought an 82 GLF hardtop and absolutely love it. It ran fine for a while but more recently has started to smoke out the exhaust pipe. I also pulled the air cleaner cover to find the air filter completely soaked in oil and the inside of the housing also covered in oil. When I start it with the air cleaner cover off I can see that the oil is comming in the passenger side head's PCV pipe because its puffing smoke when the car is running, and when I pull the dipstick out it also puffs smoke and when I take the oil fill cap off it puffs smoke about as bad as the exhaust. The car doesnt over heat and runs pretty good but it seems that the PCV system is blasting smokey oil into my air filter and the car seems to be burning oil really badly. When reved up the exhaust could is so thick you cant see behind the car. I disconnected the PCV pipes from the air cleaner housing in hopes that the smoke from the exhaust was just the oil being sucked up and burnt off but it still smokes from the exhaust pipe really badly (bluish/white smoke) that hangs in the air. I drove it for a while also with that hose off to see if that would help but that didnt help either it still is burnign oil out the exhaust BAD. Pulled plugs and number 3 cylinder was oil soaked, could it be that the rings have gone south? Ive never heard of an ea81 having this happen to it before....but maybe. The symptoms of this smoking happened after getting off the highway one day. I havent gotten aroudnt o checking compression but is there something i'm missing thats simple or is my engine toast? Thanks for any help in advance, oh and its a 5 speed if that makes any differece. ~Tim

Hi, I just bought an 82 Glf hardtop with the EA-81 engine in it, It ran fine for a while, but recently has started to smoke out the tail pipe and engine bay area. LOTS of smoke. It seems ot be burning oil, I took the Air cleaner cover off only to find the air filter and surrounding areas completely covered in oil. What the heck does this mean, its comming up from the passengers side valve cover (PCV) hose, and when its running its puffing out smoke from the hose. When I take the dipstick out it also has smoke comming out of it and when I take off the oil fill cap it puffs out smoke almost as bad as the exhaust. Its been a loooong time since Ive played with an old school soob, main reason why I bought it. My dad seems to think the rings are bad, but I beg to differ. Ive never heard of an EA-81 with bad rings. I took the plugs out and they seemed dirty, and number 3 was oil soaked. I havent done a compression test but i'm hoping the engine isnt toast. It doesant smoke at first but after its run for 20-30 seconds it starts to out the exhaust and when you rev it up it is so bad you can see the rump roast end of the car. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Hey, my e-mail is soobcollektor@hotmail.com, I hope we can figure this outit is so annoying when you drive this thing. Thanks

I have pulled and cleaned the TPS with no change in behavior as far as shifting goes. I was thinking if the TPS was bad it would throw a code, i'm getting none and the tranny shifts perfectly smooth just isnt responsive. If I shift the car manually it runs right up to 6500 when the rev limiter kicks in, If im lagging it in 2nd expecting it to downshift into 1st (it never does) I shift it into 1 and it picks up 1st and takes off. What gives?

Hi, I've been having this problem, with my 02 LL Bean now since I got it, it doesnt like to downshift into a lower gear when you floor it unless you do it extremely fast almost instant flooring of the gas pedal and it'll pick up a lower gear, it will NEVER shift down into 1st after it shifts out of it no matter how hard/fast you floor it. You could be going 10 mph and it absolutely will not pick up first no matter what, just lags in second. I dont intend to drive it like speed racer but I do like to have the power there when its needed and it just isnt, I've also noticed that from a light if you hold the pedal to the floor it will not go above 5500 rpm no matter what, if you shift it manually it will go right to 6500. This is also a bit frustrating especially when trying to pass someone and that high end torque of that 3.0 is needed. I used to work at a stealership and I would PDI these things all the time and on the road test every single one of them when floored with right to 6500 without skipping a beat, Any ideas on what is wrong with mine? 91,000 miles, no codes or anything. Thanks

I looked at a few electrical connectors under the hood while I was in there and they all appeared to be as good as new looking, the contacts looked fine and I saw no corrosion on any of them. So hopefully that means the car didnt get very wet...never will be 100% sure though As far as the rough running, it just seems to be idling a bit rough, It runs/drives fine, and starts up fine, just is slightly rough at idle but does seem to somewhat correct itself when it does it? Could it just need a simple tune up, Plugs (cant wait to change them,they just look so easy to change on an H-6) Maybe some fuel injector cleaner and a throttle bod/top end clean, maybe some seafoam? What else should I change or tune up while Im under there? ~Tim

I GOT IT!!!! I disassembled the IACV, actually removing the entire unit from the throttle body then seperating the IAC from the valve body and cleaned it all up, It was actually frozen in place and wouldnt move. Car runs 100% better now, I will say that it is running somewhat rough but maybe the TPS and other sensors need cleaning also. Thanks everyone for the help on this long post....I greatly appreciate it. ~Tim

Ok so I just got back from playing with the H-6 I managed to locate the IACV but I have no idea what bit it takes to remove it, I tried torx but that didnt seem to work, is it allen, torx, star or what? Maybe I just had the wrong size I dunno, But Id really like to know what size/type they are before I go stripping the heads off, Also just for fun I disconnected the sensor completely and tried to start it and it acted the same way....could this really be it, just a simple cleaning of the IAC? Thanks---Tim

Thanks, i'll go check it out today and post what I find, what should I use to clean them with? Brake Cleaner? Carb Cleaner? Thanks.... Tim

Thanks I'll get under the hood today and poke around, Noone has any servie manuals or diagrams for the H-6 3.0? Thanks Tim

I hope it gets running better, it drives absolutley amazing......i'll look for it (the IAC) but the H-6 is soooo different than the 4. Anyone have any diagrams or information on the EZ30? ~tim

Im thinking IAC motor or Valve also..... Ive really gone over this car and I dont see any signs of water in the interior so I really dont know, I got the car cheap so I expect it to be somewhat troublesome but I really don't see signs of water and I've checked EVERYWHERE. Any other ideas....where is the IAC located on these things? Thanks for all the help everyone I really appreciate it....Tim

Ok so I bought the scanner at Autozone and heres what I got, It actually pulled the codes, But I dont have the numbers cause I had no paper or pen and I was locked out of my dads house (where the car is) because I left my house key there the last time I was there...my luck sucks There were 7 codes!!! 1...Some REALLY long code....Vehicle speed sensor and idle control curcuit something It was reaaaaly long though had alot of commas in it...sorry im going by memory it was a wierd number to like PO1325 or something it was longer.....maybe my mind has left me I dunno, if I heard it i'd know it 2- Idle to low 3 - Idle to high 4- Cylinder 1 Misfire 5- Cylinder 2 Misfire 6- Cylinder 3 Misfire 7- Cylinder 5 Misfire I cleared them all and started the car and took it on a long Illegal test run and the light stayed off, the idle was somewhat stable at or around 650 or so but continued to die if you reved it up, (just gas it in park and let off and it doesnt settle back down it just stalls.) Still No CEL though. The other thing I noticed when I was driving it I cant get it to redline when I floor it, even from a dead stop If I hold it to the floor it shifts at 5400 rpm no matter what, It will redline though if I shift it manually.... :confused: Any ideas.....

I am leading to believe that it is the scanner that is causing my no read codes problem, I'm taking it back and buying one somewhere else to see if that does anything.....I'm also going to start checking sensors and connectors to see if that helps anything. I'm going to disconnect the battery and see if reseting the ECU does anything also. I'll see what I can do if I get a different scan tool and post back. Thanks ~Tim

I have no way of borrowing a good ecu, I looked into that and there are no H-6's in ANY junkyards around here and unofortunately I don't know anyone with an H-6 that I could try. If anyone has one to sell or knows where to get a good one let me know It has never run correctly, when I bought it it would run in high idle as I said in one of the first posts that as it warmed up the idle would rapidly go up and down but it would drive fine, then one day when I went to start it it just wouldnt unless I gace it some gas and held it there so it would run, and thats where I am now. It has a timing chain and it runs extremely smoothly when you rev it up so I doubt that theres anything internally wrong, its mainly an idle issue. :confused: ~ Tim