soobcollektor

The car does not have a K&N air filter, but I don't know if the previous owner had one or not. One thing I did notice this morning is that there is paint marker and numbers all over the MAF sensor housing on the bottom almost as if it has come from a junkyard but the question is why would the previous owner replace the already replaced MAF? Unless he just replaced the housing but I doubt thats likely. Would a bad MAF throw a po170 code after driving for a while? I would assume that if the MAF is bad it would just be bad not "almost" bad. This would definetly explain the chugging and surging and no power right? Also If I were to get it and replace the MAF, should the light go out after I start the car or will it stay on until I reset the ECU? How much do scan tools that can monitor sensors and check codes cost, I just always assumed that they were hundreds of dollars.

Sorry I know this thread is getting long, but i'll try to make it short. Update. After installing the new O2 sensor today all seemed well and the light stayed off. I drove her about 150 miles today and the only problem was some sluggishness that seemed to clear itself up after about 20 miles or so. But the CEL remained off. Just when I thought that I finally nailed it and fixed it, on my way home (on the interstate) the light came back on, had it checked at Autozone same PO170 code. I cleared it with their scan tool, I just took the tool and did it, they apparently trusted me and cleared the light and now once again, the light is off but the car is running like crap, has no power at all from a take off. It seems to do this to varying degrees everytime I clear or reset the ECUAre we possibly looking at a bad ECU? The tech that I worked with suggested either a O2 sensor or possibly MAF bad.....Guess the O2 sensor is ruled out. I really would like to fix this and not have to pay the dealer to do it, the tech would do it for me for free but they will nail his rump roast and get him in trouble, they were cracking down on this big time when I quit working there. What else, I'm at my witts end, I really cant afford a scan tool, arent they pricey and it would seem wasteful just to buy it to diagnose and fix this. I dunno Comments/Suggestions/Tips/anything Thanks everyoen for helping me on this tim

Well I purchased and installed an O2 sensor this morning and cleared the ECU. So far the light is out but we'll see. It stayed out for a while the last time I reset the computer to so who knows. I plan on hitting the highway for a drive in a little bit to see if it comes back on. And i'll post back, if this doesnt fix it I dont know what will besides swapping out the ECU or injectors. Could it be possible that the MAF is bad even though the recall had been performed?

Not for this one I had one dealer quote me at 190.00 for it and another dealer at 120.00 Yikes. Thats why i'd like to be almost positive thats whats wrong with it. Anybody else thinking thats what it is. Just would like some input before I go spending that much $$ on something that may not be bad.

Well I checked everything out today, there are no vacuum leaks, all hoses are intact and in very good condition, actually the entire engine is VERY clean. could it be a knock sensor, Im starting to think that it is the front O2 sensor, any input? It controls the fuel trim right?, which is what I'm getting a code for. And since when I unplugged it today and drove it 10-15 miles noticing no difference its leading me to believe it has failed or is on its way out. The light is still on though and I can feel the VERY slight power surging at wide open throttle. Does this sound like this could be it or should I be checking other things, even though it seems as if I exhausted all other options except injectors and the computer and with owning as many soobs as I have i've never had either of these fail on me.

Update.....I unplugged the O2 sensor and drove it and really noticed no difference. It might have had a tiny bit less power but it was so small I couldnt realy even notice it. It was still pinging but seemed to run the same. Could it really be that simple just an O2 sensor? Im going to go check the exhaust with the paper and check fro vacuum leaks that was mentioned and report back. Thanks

haha yeah I drive ALOT. I work with special education/mentally handicapped teens and adults (quite a change in nature of jobs from working at the Subie dealer to this) but yes we do a ton of driving around from various activities to shopping etc etc. Always good to see them excited when I roll in to pick them up in the SVX or Xt-6. I didn't get a chance to check the timing today but I will definetly check that and the other stuff tomorrow. I did however listen to the exhaust when it was idleing, didnt hold the paper up to it though, and it sounds very steady and even, so hopefuly it hasnt jumped time. I am going to unplug the front O2 sensor also and see what that does. I hope thats what it is and that it isnt a computer problem, that would definetly suck. The previous owner said it always ran great (miles are mostly highway miles) and it has run great for me today just that dang light is still on. Thanks for all the advise here, it truly has been a tremendous help. I would have gotten so mad and given up if it wasnt for this board. Im used to OBD1 Soobs so im learning. At the dealer believe it or not we never really got to many CEL services for Soobs, seems people dont want to pay and would rather go to Autozone and get it doene for free. I'll post back the results of all the tests tomorrow. Thanks again, Tim

The car has 146,000 miles on it, I looked under the car and the O2 sensor appears to be the original (doesnt look new or anything) its kinda rusty colored so I assume its the original. Anyways, the surging and no power issue seemd to fix itself this morning but about after an hours worth of driving later the CEL was back on again. It seesm to come back on after driving on the highway. I don't know why but thats when it came back on after the AutoZone guy shut it off and after I reset the ECU yesterday. I'll check the timing, and try the tailpipe trick....I'll post back Thanks

The tank of gas that came with the car is long burnt out of it, Ive gotten gas probably 4 times in the past week, so I dont think its the issue, I have also sweitched gas stations thinking that may be the problem. I am currently running an entire bottel of Redline Fuel System Cleaner. I was told that this was the best you can buy for fuel injection cleaner ands it was like 7 bucks for the bottle. The fuel filter has been changed, as well as the plugs, the old ones looked fine when I pilled them but I still replaced just to be aon the safe side, I used OEM plugs. It doesnt seem to matter whether the car is warm or cold it still seems to run the same, its fine on moderate acceleration, but when you get into the throttle it just surges and bogs down. I'll check all the connectors today after work for bad connections, The CEL still remains off after the ECU reset but its running like crap.

As far as when it began, I could'nt tell you, I bought it just about a week ago and the light has been on since, It is always just the one code PO170 and thats it. The previous owner didnt know what was causing it either, but never told me how long the light had been on Anywas, after posting, I went back down and re-attached the battery cable and started it up, No check engine light, So I went to drive it and it is powerless. If you accelerate gently your fine, but if you get on it, over 1/2 throttle, it surges and has no power. After that drive I took it back home and replaced the spark plugs then drove it again and still powerless. The light has remained off which leaves me even more perplexed because when the light was on the car ran awesome except for the extremely severe pinging, now that the light is off it runs like crap. What gives? Anybody got any ideas. I was so happy to see that the light had turned off only to be dissapointed 2 minutes later on the test run.

I have this same problem on my 90 Legacy Sedan, Only I have'nt replaced the transmission I have had to replace the engine due to cracked block 3 times. Anyways I have also had to replace the flex plate 2 times and now that I finally have a newer model 2.2 in there (no cracking of block) its broken again, it makes that loud squeek/hammering sound when you start the car and when you rev it up, The only thing that I have been able to figure out with these is that they are very sensative to the torque of the bolts on the rear crank, I just have impacted them on in the past, and they always seem to crack right in that area, also pay close attenion to the alignment of the transmission/engine maybe if its off, even a hair, it would be putting stress on the plate and causing it to crack over time. Hope this provides some insight........

Just got done cleaning the throttle body with the Subaru Spray in stuff, it was pretty dirty, changed the fuel filter and ran some SeaFoam through the PCV valve (man what a smoke screen) i've never used that stuff before but what a difference it makes. Started car let it idle for a while runs awesome but now its pinging worse than ever, moderate pining on light acceleration and HEAVY pinging on WOT. I currently have the Negative battery terminal disconnected and am waiting to see if the light comes back on, i'm going to put new plugs in it tomorrow but if that doesnt fix it i'm out of ideas :-( I'm desperately trying to get this CEL turned out because I really don't want to pay the dealer to diagnose it and repair it. I talked to the mechanic that I used to work with today at the dealer and he said it could be anything with that code....some help he was, but they were busy so I did'nt take the time to go in depth with him on it.

Update: I just checked the Knock Sensor, it has a white connector where it plugs into the other wire, The housing around it looks fine with no cracks. I got a price and the dealer wants 70+ dollars for a new one so i'd like to be sure its bad before I replace it. The Mass Air Flow recall has been performed on my car and it currently has no open recalls according to Subaru, I called SOA to verify. I picked up a set of plugs and a new fuel filter at the dealer today, also got a can of Seafoam to run through it to see if that helps. Checked the code today to verify when the light came back on last night that it was still the same code PO170 Fuel Trim On bank 1...... What else should I do/check/replace to get this light turned off, that thing is annoying and at night its bright as hell. Thanks

Would that be causing my check engine light with the P0170 code? I'l check out that knock sensor today and post back what I fnd. thanks

Well as the saga continues on my newly aquired 99 Impreza L with the 2.2, The check engine light has been on since I bought it so I decided to head up to Autozone and have it checked out today. Well the Autozone here in town is located on a very long rather steep 2 lane hill, heading up the hill, I gave it some gas to get up the hill and it downshifted I was going about 50-55 mph, it started pinging REALLY badly and the check engine light started flashing. It flashed for maybe 20 seconds and then stopped flashing but remained on, I pulled into Autozone and had them read the code and it was PO170 Fuel Trim Malfunction on Bank 1. What in the heck does that mean? And why did the CEL start flashing? After having him read the code I convinced him to clear it (even though they're not allowed to he said) and I started the car and left. The light stayed out for a majority of the rest of the day. Then tonight I was driving real easy in traffic and it came back on again. What gives? The engine is still pinging, not as bad but its an occasional thing, sometimes when you gas it you get none and sometimes when you run it hard it pings so bad it seriously sounds like the engine is going to come apart. Other than that the car is running fine and i'm getting excellent gas mileage. What should I do to get rid of this CEL scary sounding pinging? Thanks

Im really leaning towards the car NOT being pre wired for fogs, I've desperately been trying to get information regarding these things, I have the lights already installed on my car but I need to know how to wire them. I have a harness but I think its from a 95 Impreza's fogs and the car it came off of was wired totally differenly than the 99. Anyone out there know anything about these? Also does anyone know what year Legacy had drum brakes in the rear and is compatible with my impreza? Thanks

I couldnt manage to see any wires under the hood near the fog lights, and there arent any pre wired harnesses near the fog light holes so im assuming that they arent pre wired but im not sure.....Does anybody know for sure if the 99 Impreza is prewired for fog lights? The reason why I thought that it possibly could be is that there are 2 connectors at the switch area on the drivers side, I assumed one was for fogs and the other was for cruise but I don't know. Can anyone verify this and if it is prewired what all do we need to know as far as fuses, wiring and relays to get these things hooked up?

Yeah I have the wiring harness but I think the harness I have is from an earlier set of fogs that Subaru put on the Impreza, the larger ones with the rounded edge, I need to know if I can make this harness work or if someone has a wiring diagram or install info for 99 impreza fogs.

I had this in my last post about my trip meter but since that was fixed I thought I'd start a new thread. I have a bad rear bearing on my 99 Impreza with rear drum brakes and no ABS. I remember reading somewhere that I can install a Legacy hub onto my car since the legacy used better bearings. What year Legacy should I pull a hub from and did the legacys even come with drum brakes. Also by any chance does anyone have a installation/wiring diagram for the fog lights. I have a set of fogs to install they are the square/rectangle ones from a 97-98 impreza I think. I bought them from Subaru a long time ago but cant find the instructions as I need them to wire the harness into my car. Since I am installing them on a 99 impreza is there any chance that my car is prewired for them? Thanks in advance Tim

What year Legacy should I pull the hubs from to assure good bearing quailty? Did Legacys even come with rear drums? What all is involved in swapping over to rear discs? Also by any chance does anyone have a installation/wiring diagram for the fog lights. I have a set of fogs to install they are the square/rectangle ones from 97-98 I think. I bought them from Subaru but cant find the instructions as I need them to wire the harness in. Since I am installing them on a 99 is there any chance that my car is prewired for them? Thanks... Tim

Update, Problem fixed it seems that the button was stuck down or something, I was pressing it rather hard because of my increasing aggrivation and it popped back out and all is well now. Another quick question, I have a bad wheel bearing in the back on this thing, 99 Impreza Auto, No ABS, and I'm not paying the dealer to press in a new bearing. I want to just get a junkyard hub assembly because theres tons of them around here cheap, but I remember reading somewhere that I can use a Legacy Hub and the bearing should be fine. Is this true, My other question is I have drum brakes on the back so Im assuming that I have to get a hub that had drum opposed to disc right? Thanks

I know it tis definetly strange, The owners manual states that any information in the trip meter will be lost when replacing the battery and thats it. I think im am going to try to disconnect the battery for a little bit and see what happens. Maybe something just needs reset, although I can't imagine why is was'nt reset WHEN I changed the battery.....who knows

I just got done changing the battery in my 99 Impreza and when I got in to drive it I noticed that the trip meter was'nt on, instead it was showing the mileage. Thinking nothing of it I pressed the button and the trip meter did'nt come up. I decided to drive it to see if the Odometer was working and it was but when I press the button the trip meter wil not come up, nothing happens just the odo stays there. What could have possibly caused this? Do I need to disconnect the battery to 'reset' it? The was a little arcing when I connected the terminals to the battery but that couldnt have hurt anything right? Thanks in advance, I need my trip due to inaccurate gas gauge. makes it easier just reset it when I fill up and when it approaches 300 or so I fill up. Tim

Yeah the light does work, I checked that. I'm just out of ideas here. It only seems to hesitate when it is fully warmed up if that helps any and it is'nt a constant thing only at some take offs do I notice or hear it. :-\

The car had a tune up not that long ago....less than 10k ago. I didn't replace the wires because they seemed ok. I get the hesitation when I first take off at a stop light it just seesm to hesitate for a split second then goes fine, as far as top end power it doesnt seem to have lost any. The car itself seems to have a ton of power almost more than normal.