WeezWagon

I would try flushing the heater core if you have checked all of the other obvious things (bubble in the system, stuck thermostat, bad water pump etc) and the car is not overheating. Do you know if anyone has ever used that coolant stop leak stuff in this one? That stuff is nasty and can clog things up. I flushed the core in my '87 and it brought the heater back to life really well. Just go easy on it at first, you don't wanna break anything with a bunch of pressure from the garden hose right away, first flush one way through the core, then swap the hoses and flush back the other way. Repeat if necessary. I have done this to several older cars and am always amazed and the amount of stuff that comes out.

Ended up being a restriction in the fuel filter, changed filters and good to go. Thanks for all the help, I never have worked on many of the carbed models.

Ah Sorry, I mistyped, the secondary vacuum diaphram line is hooked up to the middle section of the carb, above the throttle plates, under the jets. Its hooked to a small port on the carb that goes to two holes, one in each barrel. Seems to make sense where it's hooked up, but it's just acting like its not getting that secondary open when it needs it. Eventually it does seem to open as power returns from about 3k-5k rpm.

I've got it hooked up right then I guess, the diaphragm is good, and the hose is new, its connected to the venturis on the right side of the carburetor to a line that goes to little holes in both barrels below the throttle plates,as more air flows through the barrels it pulls more air to open the secondary plate more, must be something else that's causing it to bog at low RPMs. Any other advice would be helpful. Maybe some vacuum leak I am missing, thanks for the confirmation on the hookup.

Hi All, Working on a 1987 GL wagon carbureted (hitachi DCZ-328) ea82 Longtime lurker here but have been searching tons and not found a great answer to this. Can someone send a photo of where the secondary gets its vacuum from? I have rebuilt the carb, cleaned and cleaned and reinstalled but having the same issues I have always had, no low end power, and bogging when you punch the gas. Accelerator pump was missing the check ball and had a tear in the diaphragm so I was assuming that would be it for sure but after a new pump and ball I still have the same issues, now I am switching my focus to the secondary as it doesn't seem to open until very high RPMs, however I can only test this when I am standing over the engine and not during actual driving. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. P.S. Someone has clearly been into this thing before so I'm not sure if it's even really hooked up right, car is drivable but just barely.

Cylinder #2 plug wire was bad. Replaced and no more hesitation.

I have heard of the valve cover gaskets leaking to make misfires, but from what I have seen these gaskets are not that bad yet. These plugs are brand new, maybe I will check the wires on them. Thanks for the info. Were you getting any CEL when this was happening?

Seems like it's an "under load" situation that causes the issue that's why I am leaning toward A/F sensors. If I catch it doing it while driving around and downshift the transmission into 3rd it goes away. Throttle position stays the same, but RPM increases because of the shift. Timing is dead on, checked and tripple checked that, I really don't think it's a mechanical problem. Valves are adjusted correctly. If I understand the car correctly the MAF takes over once the TPS tells the idle air control solenoid that the car is no longer idling? And the TPS should 'learn' idle position after a few drive cycles. In park it revs through the range just fine, but does a little studder at the beginnning if you jam on the gas really fast.

Forgot to put that in the original post. Its a 2004. Also it idles great. Just like it should, the only time I notice the noises and hesitation are when driving it. Unplugging sensors does not seem to help....

Good to know the TPS related noise is not out of the norm. Pretty sure there is not a vacuum leak, but testing further is always good. Unfortunately I don't really have access to the tools needed to get freeze frame data. If the MAP is bad is there a way to test voltage on it, trims would help a lot here but again I don't have the tool to get those. Just trying to take the best guess here. Thanks for the help.

Hi All, I have a question about a buddies 2004 Outback I am doing some work on, it seems to be hesitating, and backfiring? when you get on it. I notice it mostly after 1st gear (it's an auto). Also cruising along at 40-50 it will act like its cutting out but pick right back up again. To me it feels like a precat O2 sensor has gone bad. I pulled the plugs and they are pretty white, like it is maybe running lean? They are brand new, so a little hard to tell yet. No check engine light has come on. A little history on the car (this is where it gets interesting). Someone had driven it into a bog and it sucked in a bunch of water, they sent the motor to a fella for a "rebuild" which looks like he just did the heads on. They put the motor back in, ran it for a few months and it got terrible rod knock, and wouldn't stay running clouds of blue smoke etc. Enter me. We were able to squeeze a junkyard motor out of the guy who did the "rebuild" so we swapped that motor in, and hooked it all up, runs great at idle after a new idle air control valve, crankshaft position sensor, and some tinkering. I have a few theories, the first being that the previous motor spewed so much oil down into the exhaust that the O2 sensor is fouled up and is giving bad readings, causing the motor to cut out/backfire when loaded. The second is that the TPS is bad, I did the voltage test on it and was reading around 5v instead of .5v. Also if I move the TPS all the way to either end of the slots, I can hear a solenoid in the transmission start to buzz. Which makes me wonder if the issue could be in the transmission. Car has 38,000 on it. But it lives up in a rural Alaskan village, and sees -40 in the winter and dirt roads all year. My general rule on calculating wear up here is times mileage by 3. Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks for the time.

I think this is the same thing you are talking about. Mine is about 15 teeth from the sprocket mark. But I am sure that changes batch to batch. It looks like some kind of spiral weave and looks almost like dental floss or something. I bet they both have the same markings. Thanks very much for your help.

The dealership is quite a ways away so I was hoping someone on here who had done a lot of these could tell me if this was something normal or not. Looks like its away from the area the outside of the belt joins but this could be the area that the inside rubber joins?

Hi all, Am doing my first ej25 head gaskets timing belt waterpump etc on an 03 Outback. I am installing the new timing belt from Subaru and noticed a tooth on the belt that has some metal belting-like material showing on the sides, the old belt seems to have 2 such teeth but is in otherwise good shape for a belt with 150k on it. I am wondering if this metal showing on a brand new belt should warrant a return of the new belt or is just part of the manufacturing of the belt and is ok. Attached is a photo of the tooth. Thanks.

So I replaced the alternator, no changes there. Then I started looking at the illumination control module, replaced that guy and the dash lights all work like a charm. That must have been at least part of the issue. Not sure if the warning lights still glow as It hasn't been dark enough while I am working on it to tell yet. Thanks for all the help guys.