WeezWagon

I would try flushing the heater core if you have checked all of the other obvious things (bubble in the system, stuck thermostat, bad water pump etc) and the car is not overheating. Do you know if anyone has ever used that coolant stop leak stuff in this one? That stuff is nasty and can clog things up. I flushed the core in my '87 and it brought the heater back to life really well. Just go easy on it at first, you don't wanna break anything with a bunch of pressure from the garden hose right away, first flush one way through the core, then swap the hoses and flush back the other way. Repeat if necessary. I have done this to several older cars and am always amazed and the amount of stuff that comes out.

Ended up being a restriction in the fuel filter, changed filters and good to go. Thanks for all the help, I never have worked on many of the carbed models.

Ah Sorry, I mistyped, the secondary vacuum diaphram line is hooked up to the middle section of the carb, above the throttle plates, under the jets. Its hooked to a small port on the carb that goes to two holes, one in each barrel. Seems to make sense where it's hooked up, but it's just acting like its not getting that secondary open when it needs it. Eventually it does seem to open as power returns from about 3k-5k rpm.

I've got it hooked up right then I guess, the diaphragm is good, and the hose is new, its connected to the venturis on the right side of the carburetor to a line that goes to little holes in both barrels below the throttle plates,as more air flows through the barrels it pulls more air to open the secondary plate more, must be something else that's causing it to bog at low RPMs. Any other advice would be helpful. Maybe some vacuum leak I am missing, thanks for the confirmation on the hookup.

Hi All, Working on a 1987 GL wagon carbureted (hitachi DCZ-328) ea82 Longtime lurker here but have been searching tons and not found a great answer to this. Can someone send a photo of where the secondary gets its vacuum from? I have rebuilt the carb, cleaned and cleaned and reinstalled but having the same issues I have always had, no low end power, and bogging when you punch the gas. Accelerator pump was missing the check ball and had a tear in the diaphragm so I was assuming that would be it for sure but after a new pump and ball I still have the same issues, now I am switching my focus to the secondary as it doesn't seem to open until very high RPMs, however I can only test this when I am standing over the engine and not during actual driving. Any help here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. P.S. Someone has clearly been into this thing before so I'm not sure if it's even really hooked up right, car is drivable but just barely.

Cylinder #2 plug wire was bad. Replaced and no more hesitation.

I have heard of the valve cover gaskets leaking to make misfires, but from what I have seen these gaskets are not that bad yet. These plugs are brand new, maybe I will check the wires on them. Thanks for the info. Were you getting any CEL when this was happening?

Seems like it's an "under load" situation that causes the issue that's why I am leaning toward A/F sensors. If I catch it doing it while driving around and downshift the transmission into 3rd it goes away. Throttle position stays the same, but RPM increases because of the shift. Timing is dead on, checked and tripple checked that, I really don't think it's a mechanical problem. Valves are adjusted correctly. If I understand the car correctly the MAF takes over once the TPS tells the idle air control solenoid that the car is no longer idling? And the TPS should 'learn' idle position after a few drive cycles. In park it revs through the range just fine, but does a little studder at the beginnning if you jam on the gas really fast.

Forgot to put that in the original post. Its a 2004. Also it idles great. Just like it should, the only time I notice the noises and hesitation are when driving it. Unplugging sensors does not seem to help....

Good to know the TPS related noise is not out of the norm. Pretty sure there is not a vacuum leak, but testing further is always good. Unfortunately I don't really have access to the tools needed to get freeze frame data. If the MAP is bad is there a way to test voltage on it, trims would help a lot here but again I don't have the tool to get those. Just trying to take the best guess here. Thanks for the help.

Hi All, I have a question about a buddies 2004 Outback I am doing some work on, it seems to be hesitating, and backfiring? when you get on it. I notice it mostly after 1st gear (it's an auto). Also cruising along at 40-50 it will act like its cutting out but pick right back up again. To me it feels like a precat O2 sensor has gone bad. I pulled the plugs and they are pretty white, like it is maybe running lean? They are brand new, so a little hard to tell yet. No check engine light has come on. A little history on the car (this is where it gets interesting). Someone had driven it into a bog and it sucked in a bunch of water, they sent the motor to a fella for a "rebuild" which looks like he just did the heads on. They put the motor back in, ran it for a few months and it got terrible rod knock, and wouldn't stay running clouds of blue smoke etc. Enter me. We were able to squeeze a junkyard motor out of the guy who did the "rebuild" so we swapped that motor in, and hooked it all up, runs great at idle after a new idle air control valve, crankshaft position sensor, and some tinkering. I have a few theories, the first being that the previous motor spewed so much oil down into the exhaust that the O2 sensor is fouled up and is giving bad readings, causing the motor to cut out/backfire when loaded. The second is that the TPS is bad, I did the voltage test on it and was reading around 5v instead of .5v. Also if I move the TPS all the way to either end of the slots, I can hear a solenoid in the transmission start to buzz. Which makes me wonder if the issue could be in the transmission. Car has 38,000 on it. But it lives up in a rural Alaskan village, and sees -40 in the winter and dirt roads all year. My general rule on calculating wear up here is times mileage by 3. Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks for the time.

I think this is the same thing you are talking about. Mine is about 15 teeth from the sprocket mark. But I am sure that changes batch to batch. It looks like some kind of spiral weave and looks almost like dental floss or something. I bet they both have the same markings. Thanks very much for your help.

The dealership is quite a ways away so I was hoping someone on here who had done a lot of these could tell me if this was something normal or not. Looks like its away from the area the outside of the belt joins but this could be the area that the inside rubber joins?

Hi all, Am doing my first ej25 head gaskets timing belt waterpump etc on an 03 Outback. I am installing the new timing belt from Subaru and noticed a tooth on the belt that has some metal belting-like material showing on the sides, the old belt seems to have 2 such teeth but is in otherwise good shape for a belt with 150k on it. I am wondering if this metal showing on a brand new belt should warrant a return of the new belt or is just part of the manufacturing of the belt and is ok. Attached is a photo of the tooth. Thanks.

So I replaced the alternator, no changes there. Then I started looking at the illumination control module, replaced that guy and the dash lights all work like a charm. That must have been at least part of the issue. Not sure if the warning lights still glow as It hasn't been dark enough while I am working on it to tell yet. Thanks for all the help guys.

Yea mice are right up there with salt water as far as wreaking havoc on wires goes.... Guess I'll start pluging away.

Hi guys, I am in the process of trying to get an old 87 DL back on the road, I have it mostly running good but was out on a test drive yesterday and noticed that the clock and dash illumination had stopped working. Checked the fuses and the dimmer everything was ok, finished the drive with the lights not working (hvac and all other lights work). Started it today and everything worked great. Drove it around a bit (10-15 miles) and it all was good to go. Started it this evening and the gauge illumination wouldn't work again and clock is being weird. Everything else works though, Radio lights, hvac lights, dimmer lights, hi beam indicators, parking break light etc. just no illumination behind gauges. Also I noticed that the break fluid light EGR and check engine light were sort of glowing ever so slightly with the idle, this seems to go away when you rev it up a bit but comes back when idle comes back down. I tried smacking the side of the dash and that brought everything back for a few minutes but then the illumination lights quit working again. I haven't checked anything with a multimeter yet, that will be for tomorrow. For now I am just trying to see what some others think the issues could be, I will be at the junkyard tomorrow and want to add as many parts to my list as I can. I am thinking I could have 2 issues, maybe the alternator and the illumination control module? its also worth mentioning here that the electrical in this car was pretty messed up due to some mice living in it for a few years as it sat. I have already soldered a few connections back together in order to get the gauges to work correctly, and everything was working right for a while which makes me think it could be a failing component not just a chewed wire... Any help would be awesome. Thanks guys.

Right on Thanks guys. I will keep looking for the source of my miss. Car was infested with mice for years while it sat under a tree so maybe some wiring issues or something I haven't yet found.

When I unplug the one of the two vacuum lines it doesn't effect how the motor runs, but the other one (one of the green male ends) is broken off so I cant get a reliable test. Messing with it doesn't seem to effect the car while running. But if I stop the motor and unplug the line running to it it wont even start.... Maybe its the bowl drain for the carb?

86 DL missing when idling. Seems like this could be the culprit but what is it? Thanks much

That's almost exactly what I told them. I think hes going to try to use a insert so I am crossing my fingers for the best. I would post pics but its at the shop now. I think the main issue is that when I was drilling the hole got off a bit and I actually drilled a bit of the block out. So if you look down it at the end the holes are about 1/4 inch off centers at the ends. Maybe with an enlarged bit and insert he can make something work, like a larger bolt or something like that. Thanks a bunch for all your guys input.

I am lookin at one here that has already been split I am assuming, the guy said I would need to put the pistons back in it so I am assuming it will be split. I am thinking about just swapping out the half that got buggered up. If things fit together nice and close I will just put a little extra sealant on there and hope for the best. Thanks for the input guys

That's kinda what I was thinking too. In any case, swapping out both halves wouldn't be too bad considering how far into it I already am. Plus might learn something.

I was doing the head gaskets on a EA82 yesterday and one of the headbolts snapped off down in the block.... So without really thinking I tried to drill it out, of course I didn't do it exactly straight so now I have an even bigger problem, long story short I took it to a machine shop but the guy there wasn't too optimistic about getting it all straightened out and the threads fixed etc. So I have begun researching what I am going to do next. In theory I could just put a different(junkyard or whatever) half of the block on, and swap out pistons and be good to go right? Has anyone else had this happen and what did you end up doing? Thanks in advance for any help.

520$ is totally within range for me. So youre saying keep stock headers? Wouldn't UEL headers give more rumble tho?