WeezWagon

Hey guys I've been doing some research on how to get a little of that boxer rumble out of my 2002 outback sport. I'm not looking for anything crazy loud, just enough to sound a little more aggressive. But I defiantly don't want it to sound cheap or rattly or like a Honda with a fart can... from my research it looks mostly like I should invest in some UEL headers and then a new exhaust system. does anyone have some suggestions about brands/types of headers and exhaust combos? I've been seeing mixed reviews about Borla but it seems like a lot of guys have those headers. Also has anyone done this to an '02 obs with any luck? Any suggestions or tips for this would be awesome. Thanks... Also looking for some good sites/dealers to buy my supplies at.

Awesome that makes me feel better about putting an EA one in there. I drive pretty easy on cars generally so I'm not too worried. Thanks guys.

Thanks for the reply's guys. I have been thinking about the transmission options and I think a straight forward EA one will do the trick for me. Plus the gas mileage will be a nice bonus. I also like having the ability to manually switch in and out of 4wd in the snow/mud and what not, dunno why but I just like it that way. My question is will that transmission hold up to the increase in horse power? or do things start prematurely failing if an EA transmission is bolted to an EJ? Numbchux I have downloaded your PDF for the swap and am reading it a bit each day, also looked at your site for the wiring harnesses, I really like how your loyale turned out. That's a very nice ride... Should this come to fruition I am only in need of space I think, donor cars shouldn't be too hard to come by out here. I'm gonna keep doing research and hopefully get this thing moving this summer. Thanks again.

Hey guys I'm just doing a little research on revamping my 92 Loyale. It's got a EA82 with a 3spd auto, both with 230k on them. It still runs well but is progressively leaking more oil and is having a hard time staying cool when I have to drive over passes (2 or 3 times a week). I am just kinda testing the waters for suggestions on what would be the best course of action to swap an EJ22 into the car, and while I'm at it put a 5 speed transmission in there too. The thing is I love the car, and its about the perfect vehicle for me, I just want a little more power and some more modern engineering. I have been looking at a lot of the write up's on the subject and have almost convinced myself I can do the motor swap. The transmission is another story as I am not seeing too many people go from autos to manuals (most people seem to have manuals already at the time of the swap) is it as straight forward as the motor? Is a donor car the way to go for this type of thing? Or would I be better off buying parts separately? Also what 5 speed transmissions would be good candidates for this? Will there need to be custom drive shafts made or would there be a way to avoid that? Any tips/tricks on part gatherings would be great. Also if anyone knows good spots to look for EJ's in the Seattle area that would be awesome. Thanks for the help.

Thanks guys, I did drive for a while with the noise, it seemed to come and go, so I wasnt too worried about it for a while. Only time will tell I suppose.

Hey guys, Getting ready to do my wheel bearings here and I've been doing a little homework as it is my first try. My front drivers side wheel is making a grinding sort of noise especially at low speeds, hard cornering seems to make it go away. On the free way I can feel a sort of pulsation in the pedal and it just feels like something is wrong. I'm thinking it might be the wheel bearings due to the 217,xxx miles on the car. Today I tightened up the castle nut just to be sure, drove it around a bit and the noise was gone..... the cotter pin was intact, so I know the nut couldn't have been too loose. My question is could a castle nut be responsible for all of the noises I was hearing? Will this be a permanent fix or temporary? I have all the wheel bearings and am gonna hang onto them until I've driven a couple hundred miles just to see. Your guy's questions comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

thanks gary, i got one at the junkyard today for 25 bucks, just in case, and it does the same thing. never hurt to have a spare part laying around.

Hey guys, quick question, I have pulled the belts, done the water pump and cam towers, and pulled the oil pump to reseal it. I noticed that the pully is kind of loose feeling when the pump is out of the car, like the whole shaft slides back and forth about a quarter of an inch, is this normal? It doesnt seem normal to me, and would hate to put a bad oil pump back into the car after being right here. thanks.

Cool thanks! I've gone from nervous to excited about this. I have an impact wrench at my disposal so I'll use that if the bolts give me any guff. Its an auto, so sounds like I'm in the clear for that as well. Thank you very much, I'm sure I'll have at least one more last minute question but I'm feeling pretty good at this point. Thanks again.

wow guys thanks for the reply's. I'm starting to feel a little bit better about the repair and I think I'll do it on my Saturday, get a good start and take my time, should be pretty straight forward like you all have said. Radiator is defiantly coming out. Some other questions though, my Hayes manual mentions a "drive plate stopper tool", I don't see this mentioned in the writeups I've found. Necessary? It sounds like a good idea to me. Also depending on the shape of my belt covers I may run coverless as well, this seems like a bad idea at first but seeing that almost everyone on here does it gives me some confidence. I have the kit on the way from ebay and am getting a water pump and oil pump seal kit from the local napa. Thanks again. One other thing, Gary, when you say that the marks are 180 off what do you mean? I.E. The drivers side cam alignment marks would point up while the passenger side would point down? Just a little clarification please. Thanks again for all your help guys.

Hey all, I have a 1992 Loyale wagon, and its pretty much been a great car for the last 3 years I've owned it. 216k on original motor and tranny. Of course it leaks oil like a sieve. Anyway it is time to do the timing belts on it, they are quite a bit over the recommended mileage. I believe I have close to 75k on them. oops. I just cant justify taking it to a shop to get them done so I am going to attempt it myself. I have read up on this for the last few days and found some pretty good write ups with pictures and everything on the site but decided to make a post to get any last minute tips/tricks while I compile my parts. While I am doing these belts I have read that most of you guys do the water pump and reseal the oil pump, also I am wondering if anyone has a link to a cam tower o-ring tutorial, as I see that these are a pretty common repair while doing the timing belts and mine certainly need attention. I've never done a timing belt before and am a little nervous, any and all advice would be appreciated. Thanks.