shortskoolbus

I've had this chatter that i have coming from the rear passenger side. Today I was swapping the diff with a new (used) one.. once i had it off of the front diff member i noticed this: Passenger side bracket is pushed up into the bushing and front member pushed right up against the stopper on top This is the drivers side. You can see the even spacing between the bracket, member/bushing, and the stopper on top Looks like the previous owner ran into something pretty hard... What do you think has happened here and what do i need to replace? To me it almost looks as if that entire bolt got pushed right up into the car.. that would mean the threads inside there are hosed and the bolt is probably stripped in there pretty bad. What do you guys think?

one of the screws are a different part number...

no you can't look down on the RH side of the engine where the engine meets the tranny bellhousing right above the crossmember. You should see some oil seeping through right there.

Okay need some help now. I got the diff lowered, but how do i get the rear axles out? There aren't any spring pins like the front axles..

Working on a EJ22 I have no idea how much that would be worth either, but can the cams come out without pulling the head? I'll consider pulling them out if i don't have to pull the RH head

damn. torqued down the crank bolt and everythin.g good thing i didnt put all the acc belts back on last night

but that baffle plate always leaks... i think at this point its safe to assume any car that hasn't had that done is gonna be leaking from there.

I have an old style tension adjuster (2 piece). The FSM says to install the tensioner all the way to the right first, put the belt on, then move it to the left before pulling the pin out. The thing is once you get the belt on there's quite a lot of tension in there already. the tension adjuster won't move to the left at all since the tensioner is already pressing up against it pretty tightly.. Is this gonna be okay? Does that sound right to you what i'm describing?

Well i took a cap off of my 96 Legacy which doesn't have the same issue. The problem is still there. After double checking the cap and making sure it was torqued to spec, looks more like i'm getting about .8mm of play, still well outside of the maximum allowance. What can cause this assuming the cap is OK? I haven't seen it, so i don't know what holds the cam in place. The cap obviously prevents it from moving back, but what prevents it from moving forward? Is it just a larger diameter lip on the journal that is stopped by the head from moving forward?

I just did this job yesterday. It is pretty straight forward. Definitely protect the radiator or get rid of the extension. I used a standard socket and breaker and didnt need an extension. I ended up installing the seal into the oil pump first (against Dave's advice) but it was pretty uneventful. I greased up the inside and the journal pretty well though and i did a couple of test runs without issue.

It's a PITA to replace, it's right next to the rear main. So your tranny or engine has to come out.

Yes i learned the hard way. If it's not leaking dont touch that thing. But your oil separator plate is definitely leaking if it hasn't been changed. I like to use Hondabond HT, but probably pretty similar to permatex. You can get a tube of it on Ebay for 10 bucks shipped.

single, but 97 EJ22 - its an interference motor. If i'm turning the engine by hand and the valves come in contact with the piston i'm just not going to be able to turn it anymore right? It shouldnt bend the valve if i'm just turning by hand?

was trying to tighten down the RH camshaft. This is the unloaded camshaft, i noted it had some forward backwards play in it. Well when i went to torque it down, it skipped.. a few times. The crank did not turn with it as it was being held down with a pry bar in the fly wheel.. what's happened now..?

Oh, think i found it in the FSM. I've never read of anybody having a problem with this before...

no the cam seal is in. is the cap the only thing that controls the play in the cam? the amount of travel is a bit alarming, maybe as much as .200"

no the camshaft itself is where the play is, not the cap.

Is this normal? I noticed also that after changing the RH camshaft o-ring the cap doesnt really sit as flush as it used to (torqued down to 12 lb-ft per the manual spec).. when i take the o-ring off and let the cap sit completely flush, the amount of travel is less but there's still a little of front back play I'm a little concerned about that.

Can I install this thing off the engine since i took the support off to change the o-ring anyway.

i thought the cam sprocket would be tough, i put my hand on it and gave it a really good yank... luckily i had taped cardboard to the AC condensor because it had practically no resistance and i would banged up the condensor pretty bad...

Thanks, finally got it off after about 2 hours. I was prying against the alt and PS tensioner on both side. Even once i started getting play in it it took about 30 minutes of tapping it with hammer and wiggling it before it finally came off... I just hope that sprocket is gonna come off a bit easier now.

its just a few bucks...

I saw a few threads here about getting the bolt off, but any tips to get the pulley off?

Ok so looks like only the front crankshaft seal is the one leaking... Is there anything i could have screwed up when doing the rear main that would cause the front crankshaft seal to leak?

Oh one more question, do the tires need to be free to do this job? Or can i put the back on ramps? i'm never that comfortable under jackstands..