1-3-2-4

I ended up just sticking it on top of the center vent and cutting a little notch behind the plastic cover for the wire to fit behind.

I'm pretty sure the heads are still good right? Need it for my EJ22 project.

Don't drop the bolts for the TC down in the TC!!!

You know what was funny was 2 nights ago I noticed between a certain rpm I hear a sound like you know piston slap on a cold morning but any higher or lower rpm it went away.. I did make a short video, power level was really down the motor made sharp metallic sounds, in which I could feel in the throttle pedal.. It's hard to tell if it's a piston or the bearings, because the fact that all the other cars I heard with bad spun bearings at least they still ran at idle.. mine would die as soon as I clutched in.. it squealed like a banshee..

Lol time to move to the ej22 now.. I wonder if I should tear the 25d apart

Car first stalled coming off the the off ramp I was able to get it started then move again then all hell went loose.

My bearings are GONE! Repeat GONE!

Plug wires are subaru brand and a year old.. plugs are NGK platinum and 5 months old. I will have to get a picture of the coil pack

sheeez it seems like the gauge loves to have at least one warning light lit... Not any sooner I finally fixed my 2 long year ABS light I get a CEL not too long after I filled up with fuel, The light has been off for like 2 months now.. being it's 1&2 it's on the same coil? My coil had some arc damage but that's on the connection for cly 4 As far as driveability nothing has changed. The interesting thing was it started out as only #1 at first then #2 started to show up.

I had some massive air bubbles, car is happy again

So far no more code I will know more tomorrow but I don't expect it to show up anymore.. Also this is the spot in the cable where I was having issue, every time you bend this a area my readings change from OL to 1.6K that it should be for resistance.

Ok this time he sent it off FedEx and I have it in my hand now, must of came while I was sleep.. so going out to install it now it seemed to have come off a '99 outback You know the funny thing was on my long trip back from S.C. the ABS light never came on in that 650 mile drive.. that's nuts.. But yeah I hope this fixes the issue but I did not really mind with all that snow we had early in this year.

How tight of a seal should be with the cap and the neck of the radiator? It seemed tighter then any other Subaru caps I've had in the past and always wondered if it was hurtful.

Yes they were resurfaced before being put on the car... now I did rush a little on refilling.. but the radiator is a replacement but the subaru oem cap the rubber that goes around it is a little tight

Did the head gaskets 3 months ago because I had to change the heads because of bent valves. I had to buy new head gaskets from the dealer. Tstat is about two years old Dealer brand.

No bubbles

I notice it only really happens when the car is facing uphill and at idle. As soon as the car engine speed goes up it goes back down. Now the upper radiator hose seems like it has too much pressure in the hose. Not sure if it's because of my radiator cap since a part of the rubber that goes around the spring part ripped in one area.

Why do they bother trying anymore... I've been here 7 years now.. it's bad enough last month two orders from Amazon shipped out using the post office and both never made it here which required me to contact each seller.. now this from Ebay.. If it was something I'd not really care but come on...

Still waiting on the sensor... USPS had a date of 10/4 for delivery hopefully it will show up on Monday in the past 3 weeks I've had two packages lost in the mail.. I doubt I will find a right rear abs sensor this cheap again for awhile.

I saw the wire but it was not the pin but it was reversed so I ended up finding it with my meter, yes it was brown/yellow but not in the pin slot like the manual showed or you said. I was on my way to putting parking sensors in the car but geez that stupid thick styrofoam right behind the bumper.. it's not as easy to get into the car (passenger side rear tail light) from outside the car

Hmm I can tap for ground near B99 right?

Ok I will check tomorrow I'm not going to put the camera on just yet because I have to switch out the hatch.. which btw do you have the part number for that part that always rusts out the one that the handle mounts on? both my lift supports never raise by themselves so I always have to help them but at least it stays up! I assume it's easy to swap the locks?

The reason why I ask this is because on the back of the head unit is a wire I need to tap for the unit to know when the car is backing up so it can switch to the camera.. it's not a long wire it's maybe about middle ways of the center console.. the reverse lights must get some power from a fuse box or something.. I just don't remember where the switch was when looking at the shift boot, On my other transmission I took out the neural and reverse switches but just can't remember where and what pushed on the switch to trigger it.

I might just tap the switch on the transmission I don't want to have to use more wire than I have to

I might just tap the switch on the transmission I don't want to have to use more wire than I have to