1-3-2-4

Ha I wish that would work yes I did but I got a bunch of offers over at 2.5RS.com as well.

wow guess what these ffers said.. they only warranty the head and not the stuff inside.. WTF??? So all in all I'm out of $215.. Right now I feel like going back up to the place when they are closed and just dropping the heads right at the front door and driving off.

You look at 56 miles but try being stuck in a 27 mile delay to get to the place... yeah it sucks big time..

Hmmm what the hell.. I don't remember my cams looking like this when I did my HG's

GD this is true? I always thought it was valve to piston.. Mine went and while I forgot to take a picture it was way off on the drivers side.. like 11 teeth off CW and the exhaust was maybe 7 off CCW, I never heard any sound when I lost power, when I reset the cams and started it up the idle was really rough as in everything shaking, it would idle but certain throttle inputs if you are too smooth could cause it to stall or slowing down to a stop can cause the idle to dip to low 500's then come back to 750. Having said that.. would the valve guides be ok?

Ok thanks, let me know

Or I could use my current ej25d heads on my car now but the passenger side has bent valves, not sure about the drivers side... not sure what happens with the valve guides..

The drivers side is missing 4 buckets for the exhaust, it's a 56 mile one way drive for me which is why I'm debating.. the the other places (cheaper are a little farther like RI) I've seen heads listed as high as $300 per head... and the lowest $75

I noticed that just turning the cam in my hand with the cam cap in the other one side got more oil then the other and in the end it just flicked the oil out because of the way the current cam cap is. it's worth a try anyways I'm not getting another set of heads.. I already spent $215 for this and it's missing a bunch of stuff inside...

So no one ever says but what bad could come from this? This one I have here on the stuck one is so badly messed up it seems it would do more harm then good then just using another cap off another car. Looks like something happened to it when they took the heads off.

Thanks, kinda upset since I spent at least $60 already to get the tool to remove and put back the spring and retainers and the valve oil seals. Plus $30 for the stuff to clean up the valves.

Like 1-2 weeks but the quicker the better since I'm using someone car. The head that is good with everything the damn cam cap bolt head is rounded off now because the idiots when they removed the head put everything so damn tight.. so just to get that one bolt out I have to get a extractor set.

I was wrong seems like they list for $21 each

How much do these go for? Turns out the heads I got well that's why one of the cams was hard to turn.. it's missing 4 buckets for the exhaust side. I'm going to guess $10-15 each?

Do I really need to lap the valves? from my understanding it's carbon build up.. I ask because I can't get anyone to give me a answer if lapping changes the valve clearance enough that the shim is no longer good.

Does the shim over bucket design use oil seals? From what I understand the OTC 4572 will work I need a magnet for the retainers

Anyone know how to get the valves out? I have heads with unknown mileage and since I'm going in this far I might as well clean the valve and seat and replace the oil seals, however I've never seen any oil seals go bad before.

The factory clerance is .025 for the exahust? Why does that seem to thick? Bah stupid feeler gauge tool OEM 25024 I was looking at the wrong blade I hate how the tips are grounded down thinner to make it easy.

Haha this car's weight makes it so slow, I've gotta start calling some of these places to see what's the prices are, what I have a feeling I will be doing is just getting the heads today.. Only because I don't have a place to put the engine right now and I in no shape or forum will be trying to lift that engine myself (I'm 126 Lb) The 5MT from a dead lift was bad enough but once in your hands it was easy as pie. I can get the L&R heads for about $150 and at least I wont have to worry much about rain on it since it's muddy like crazy.. Sounds like the better option, then on the day of the swap (sometime next week) get the engine and pull the engine lift out, because I still have to wait for those cometic gaskets I ordered anyways.

I ordered these.. I must of taken the last two because now they say they wont be in stock until July. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Cometic-Head-Gasket-EJ22ET-MLS-98MM-051-Subaru-Legacy-Sport-1991-1994 With that HG the coolant passages will match the ej25 heads

Well if I can't find one that's an AT model for testing I'm just going to let it sit until I get the Cometic Head Gasket EJ22ET set so I can put the 2.5 DHOC heads on and have the coolant passages line up right, besides the amount of rain we had here in the past week I doubt I can get the engine lift out of the basement with all that soggy soil.

I'm so used of turning the cams by hand SHOC or DOHC it does not bother me at all, hah this week is going to feel like the longest week ever, I wont mess with the heads until my vacation is over.. so all in all I will be pulling the motor twice.. no big deal, now on to getting some sti motor mounts!

Yes I know that but since the heads are coming from a yard they wont be on a block.. Anyways my question was anwsered so that takes care of that.

Wondering if it's going to fit in the trunk of a '95 Ford taurus? I can't really find any info Well the most I found is here http://www.sdsefi.com/air11.html If that's the case then it should be no issues with everything still on then, I should be able to lift it out with the engine lift.

Yeah I thought so, not sure why the service manual gets all anal about it