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Looking at the wire diagram in the service manual does not say were the switch is I need to tap a wire for a rear view camera.

I've got 257K miles on my original starter on my outback.

Opps haha here is the total list I just brought the ABS sensor from ebay for $38 so I will report what happens when I replace it I guess it has a break in the line or some internal issue.

Yes it's the underside of my outback I think my irwin bolt-grip 11/16" socket is about 17mm

The car is a '97 as in the sig, I have the service manual so I know what the codes are, I did clear it and only the 26 code comes up now. Also back in the early summer I pulled the sensor off and it's fine, the sensor I repeat has no resistance, I waited as long as I did because I was not in a rush. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221284832140?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

So after months of looking finally found a sensor on ebay.. the codes I get are 26,56 & 41 I think.. I was wondering if the bad sensor can do this? I tested the resistance 2 years ago and I know it reads 0 ohms, but the funny thing is sometimes the ABS will work for a little while or just not at all.. I suspect it's just cheaper to do the sensor first (yes I cleaned it) I guess $38 for the right rear is not bad.. for some reason this seems to be the most expense ABS sensor on the car.

I use a 1/2" air impact.

Just thinking about it I have some bolt extractor sockets.. what size are the nuts? I can try hitting it with some Kroil.

You see the rust on those bolts.. no way in the world they are coming off with the correct size socket... that's really my only concern. Also I have a transmission jack so getting the diff up or down is not a issue.

Looking at getting a 4.11 LSD diff from a forester and on my '97 Outback I assume it has male axles? And how do I remove these bolts? and the weight is around 60 lbs?

I was lucky my dealer new and had the parts box.. the contacts I think the both of them (did not get plunger) was like $10 at the most.. I took the starter out as soon as I got home (Hot.. Hot HOT!) and had it done in 20 min.

Like this

I'm talking between the front windshield and where the air vents for the defrost vents are.

How hard is it to fish a wire down the center part of the dash? I assume it's not possible without removing the dash from the front window?

My car is not a show car so I don't care that much about making it look right, I'd have to do a bit of metal shaping but trying to figure out how thick the sheet metal is and for the wielding what metal should I use?

I know it's the pump because it ran dry, and no longer works when filled

I'm thinking about picking up a pump because I just can't take the heavy steering when stopped.. Being as it's used, the only thing I need to do is change the O-ring inside the pump? And to prime it I think I need to lift the front in the air and turn the wheels back and forth?

Not P&P need to merge the wire harnesses.

Need to fish wires inside the car from the outside rear bumper need area for opening.

The biggest issue for me is the passenger side rear

Between the rear bumper and the inside of the car does the car have any area where you can enter in?

^not so true.. I broke the front diff on a 4EAT once and all it did was show me doing 120 MPH standing still and it only took like 4K RPM..

Can't you just for the smaller areas just cut the metal to shape (part you want to wield) and do it that way instead of trying to use a piece from a doner car?

My cup holder is fine because I pulled that out and took it inside and washed it in the sink with soap and water and used a little lithium grease to keep it find binding up ever again.

One thing that annoys me is the AC button it's like it's something sticky on it and it's slow to come back up when you turn the AC off but moves faster when the car is hot to almost feeling like it's not sticky at all.. How can I fix this without having to take the whole switch out only to find it's something else? Another thing is I've been noticing now that when I change the air position the position wont change right or it will get stuck between settings like vent's and floor.. or if I have it on floor and change to vents it stays on floor.. i notice if I mash on the button hard enough then it's not a issue. I never seen this happen on any of my Subarus before.