SDSOOBI

I'm using what the auto parts store designates as vacuum lines. Far as I can tell they are just black rubber. Auto parts guys told me the swelling is due to oil in my vacuum lines, which according to them should not be happening.

I have now replaced my vacuum lines on my 86 GL two times due to them swelling and coming loose. My assumption is that it is being caused by excessive oil or oil vapor in the lines which the rubber absorbs and expands as a result. The engine is a 1.8L TBI and the line that is swelling comes out of the manifold and then Ts off to the transmission and to something by the passenger side strut tower. Could these lines possibly be removed? I have removed the line coming from my TBI running to the EGR and noticed a definite improvement in idle and little better start up power.

Yep that is the case. The internal regulator is what has failed. Still have to replace the whole unit though. Took it to advance auto and when they put it on their test bench it pegged out the volt and amp needle gauges.

I think I'll just go the new belt route. Thanks for all the suggestions though! As for the alternator I better get that tested if the voltmeter being pegged is the sign of a failing alternator.

So I spilled a bit of fluid when filling my power steering reservoir onto the main pulley running both my v belts. I cleaned it up best I could with simple green and since then I have had a belt squeal upon start up. So applied some spray belt cleaner/conditioner that is supposed to make the squeal go away however it now squeals 10x worse. In addition my volt gauge is pegged at 18 volts when engine RPM is above 2k. Were my belts just slipping that much before?

If you really want to find something on the forum search it with google. ie. "search items/phase" site:ultimatesubaru.org http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hs=y7x&q=5+hub+site%3Aultimatesubaru.org&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

If you are interested my local U-pull-it facility has a turbo up on blocks.. They charge $38.75 for a cylinder head. Though I'd lean towards the engine swap to a non turbo.

I did 1/3 can in my oil which did get rid of the tick on the drivers side, but now at random it's back again. The engine was very cruddy when I got it a few months back so maybe something got loose and is causing it again. I'll have to try the PCV/brake booster line as well since my engine sometimes hesitates when I give it 1/2 throttle or more.

Yes it's true that FRAM used to be one of the best but now their filters are nothing but cardboard box pleats in a soup can. Sure they cost a bit more, but all I run on all my vehicles is WIX. I also did quite a bit of research online a while back and ran across this guy that cut apart most every oil filter on the market. http://knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/index.html

Once again thank you all for the recommendations! Finally tracked down an MAF sensor and once installed all the error codes disappeared. The car now runs great!

Thanks Gloyale! I'll give that a try. Regarding the hoses hooked to the air intake after the MAF, there are about 3 of them. None of them seem to fit too tightly. I'll see if I can get them to fit tighter.

You all have been great in helping me address several issues. Though upon remedying each one of it seems that another pops up. Now that I have my new ignition amplifier thanks to 4x4_Welder the car seem to run a bit better, but still won't run good. When turning the key on initially I get the model code 1 long 6 short via the computer light followed by a 1 long 1 short code which is ignition/crank angle sensor error. So I marked the location and removed the distributor, which is the non-vacuum crank angle type that uses the LEDs, and cleaned the wheel which had some gunk in the grooves. Though I'm thinking I may still need to replace the whole dizzy. Here is my post on my type of dizzy. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101274&highlight=distributor Upon starting the engine the code changes and displays a 3 long 5 short and the ECS light on the dash is lit which indicates Air flow meter/EGR solenoid switch or circuit. So I cleaned up the MAF with some MAF cleaner to remove the gunk on it as well as removed the carbon and cleaned the EGR valve which appears to be functioning fine. I then replaced most of the vacuum hoses, which were shot, with new hose. Still it only runs with my foot on the gas keeping it at/above 2k. And it doesn't run smooth. New parts thus far... Plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor, stock coil (ditched the accel superstock) and the ignition amplifier (thanks to 4x4_welder!). Here is my other post regarding previous troubleshooting. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100886 Here's the model info on my car... 86 GL, 2wd, 1.8L, SPFI, non-turbo. Any more help/suggestions are much appreciated. You have all been awesome thus far! I just really don't want to take it into a shop when I can do most any of work myself and find the parts cheaper myself. This is my first Subaru so my troubleshooting knowledge of Subaru's isn't the greatest, but thanks to you guys it has improved immensely over the past few weeks!

The error code I'm receiving is the 1 long 1 short => crank angle sensor which is in the distributor correct? And the repair manual I've been using states when this component is faulty you have to replace the entire dizzy. Also please see my other post regarding troubleshooting this issue. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100886 I have an ignition amplifier on the way thanks to 4x4_Welder. But I'm guessing this part will not solve my problem...Thus I'm beginning the search/research for a replacement dizzy.

yes... 1.8L, SPFI, non-turbo, 2WD

Just to clarify this is the distributor I currently have... No vacuum advance and no module. http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Subaru/GL/A1_Cardone/Distributor/1986/Base/4_Cyl_1-dot-8L/A131853.html