SDSOOBI

I'm using what the auto parts store designates as vacuum lines. Far as I can tell they are just black rubber. Auto parts guys told me the swelling is due to oil in my vacuum lines, which according to them should not be happening.

I have now replaced my vacuum lines on my 86 GL two times due to them swelling and coming loose. My assumption is that it is being caused by excessive oil or oil vapor in the lines which the rubber absorbs and expands as a result. The engine is a 1.8L TBI and the line that is swelling comes out of the manifold and then Ts off to the transmission and to something by the passenger side strut tower. Could these lines possibly be removed? I have removed the line coming from my TBI running to the EGR and noticed a definite improvement in idle and little better start up power.

Yep that is the case. The internal regulator is what has failed. Still have to replace the whole unit though. Took it to advance auto and when they put it on their test bench it pegged out the volt and amp needle gauges.

I think I'll just go the new belt route. Thanks for all the suggestions though! As for the alternator I better get that tested if the voltmeter being pegged is the sign of a failing alternator.

So I spilled a bit of fluid when filling my power steering reservoir onto the main pulley running both my v belts. I cleaned it up best I could with simple green and since then I have had a belt squeal upon start up. So applied some spray belt cleaner/conditioner that is supposed to make the squeal go away however it now squeals 10x worse. In addition my volt gauge is pegged at 18 volts when engine RPM is above 2k. Were my belts just slipping that much before?

If you really want to find something on the forum search it with google. ie. "search items/phase" site:ultimatesubaru.org http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hs=y7x&q=5+hub+site%3Aultimatesubaru.org&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

If you are interested my local U-pull-it facility has a turbo up on blocks.. They charge $38.75 for a cylinder head. Though I'd lean towards the engine swap to a non turbo.

I did 1/3 can in my oil which did get rid of the tick on the drivers side, but now at random it's back again. The engine was very cruddy when I got it a few months back so maybe something got loose and is causing it again. I'll have to try the PCV/brake booster line as well since my engine sometimes hesitates when I give it 1/2 throttle or more.

Yes it's true that FRAM used to be one of the best but now their filters are nothing but cardboard box pleats in a soup can. Sure they cost a bit more, but all I run on all my vehicles is WIX. I also did quite a bit of research online a while back and ran across this guy that cut apart most every oil filter on the market. http://knizefamily.net/minimopar/oilfilters/index.html

Once again thank you all for the recommendations! Finally tracked down an MAF sensor and once installed all the error codes disappeared. The car now runs great!

Thanks Gloyale! I'll give that a try. Regarding the hoses hooked to the air intake after the MAF, there are about 3 of them. None of them seem to fit too tightly. I'll see if I can get them to fit tighter.

You all have been great in helping me address several issues. Though upon remedying each one of it seems that another pops up. Now that I have my new ignition amplifier thanks to 4x4_Welder the car seem to run a bit better, but still won't run good. When turning the key on initially I get the model code 1 long 6 short via the computer light followed by a 1 long 1 short code which is ignition/crank angle sensor error. So I marked the location and removed the distributor, which is the non-vacuum crank angle type that uses the LEDs, and cleaned the wheel which had some gunk in the grooves. Though I'm thinking I may still need to replace the whole dizzy. Here is my post on my type of dizzy. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101274&highlight=distributor Upon starting the engine the code changes and displays a 3 long 5 short and the ECS light on the dash is lit which indicates Air flow meter/EGR solenoid switch or circuit. So I cleaned up the MAF with some MAF cleaner to remove the gunk on it as well as removed the carbon and cleaned the EGR valve which appears to be functioning fine. I then replaced most of the vacuum hoses, which were shot, with new hose. Still it only runs with my foot on the gas keeping it at/above 2k. And it doesn't run smooth. New parts thus far... Plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor, stock coil (ditched the accel superstock) and the ignition amplifier (thanks to 4x4_welder!). Here is my other post regarding previous troubleshooting. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100886 Here's the model info on my car... 86 GL, 2wd, 1.8L, SPFI, non-turbo. Any more help/suggestions are much appreciated. You have all been awesome thus far! I just really don't want to take it into a shop when I can do most any of work myself and find the parts cheaper myself. This is my first Subaru so my troubleshooting knowledge of Subaru's isn't the greatest, but thanks to you guys it has improved immensely over the past few weeks!

The error code I'm receiving is the 1 long 1 short => crank angle sensor which is in the distributor correct? And the repair manual I've been using states when this component is faulty you have to replace the entire dizzy. Also please see my other post regarding troubleshooting this issue. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100886 I have an ignition amplifier on the way thanks to 4x4_Welder. But I'm guessing this part will not solve my problem...Thus I'm beginning the search/research for a replacement dizzy.

yes... 1.8L, SPFI, non-turbo, 2WD

Just to clarify this is the distributor I currently have... No vacuum advance and no module. http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Subaru/GL/A1_Cardone/Distributor/1986/Base/4_Cyl_1-dot-8L/A131853.html

Hey guys, given the error code that I'm receiving my crank angle sensor in the dizzy is bad. I'm wondering if there is a difference between the 86 and 88 models? For an 86 I see this model as a reman by A1 cardone - A131853 and for an 88 this model as a reman by A1 cardone - A131854 The only difference I can see is that the 88 model is for turbo, FI and carb whereas the 86 is for gas, FI. The auto parts store can't tell me the difference other than the model number. Reason I'm asking is I can get a dizzy for an 88-91 off ebay for $95 versus paying $200+ from the auto parts store for an 86.

Thanks guys! Regarding stock coils is there a difference in the nippendito and hitachi models? I'm not sure which coil I need since I tossed my original.

Hey guys you all have been a great help in the past and I could use some help again. My 86 GL was running good until the other day when it just died. It will start after some cranking and will run if you keep the RPMs up around 2-3k (with a slight miss noticeable) but as soon as you let off to make it idle it dies. Here's the specs... 86 GL, 1.8L TBI, no turbo, FWD, and has the crank angle sensor LED distributor with no vacuum hose. http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/subarugl19861986a1cardonea131853354182.html When I start it the ECS light is lit and I'm getting a 1 long 1 short error code from the ECM, which indicates the crank angle sensor. So I contacted a local shop that specialized in subarus and told the mechanic what I had done (thought it was a bad MAF so I checked and cleaned it) and what I was going to do next (replace the distributor) to which he replied "that's what I would do next." So here's where it gets kinda confusing... A while back while combating another electrical issue arrgghh. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor, both of which were very worn, and put in a new coil all of which did not resolve my issue at the time. Since I could not get a new stock coil I found a post (not on this forum) that an ACCEL super stock coil would work great so I went with that. That coil sure did give me some great spark and the car ran good for about a week until it died. That is when I ran across a post on this forum which stated the higher performance coils, like the ACCEL, have been known to damage/burn out the Igniter. So I headed to the parts store and checked on getting a distributor and igniter. The parts store said they could get the distributor without the module. What module is this? Since I can't find such a part and the picture of the part they showed me at the store I don't see anywhere under the hood or in the distributor. They then tell me is it located by the coil, which seems like a different part to me. So I check it out and I find a < HF8311 > part attached to the coil bracket with leads to both posts of the coil. I proceeded to remove and break the part in the process. Upon looking for this part number it appears that according to the forum here this is an ignition amplifier. Given the error code I was getting prior to breaking the HF8311 part under the coil I'm likely going to need a distributor. As for a ignition module I don't know on that one. And as for the igniter or amplifier or whatever it is that I broke does anyone happen to have one of those lying around? Lastly I also bought a new stock coil which they happened to have, which is the nippendito (spelling?) since they did not have the Hitachi and couldn't tell me the difference between the 2. Is there a difference or? So basically I'm confused as to what part(s) I need or should get and replace. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Sorry for the bloated post I just didn't want to leave anything out that would likely be asked later on. Thanks in advance guys!!!

Just to update anyone still following this thread... Thanks to Andy FitzGibbon I was able to get the small idiot light circuit board and upon plugging it in the car started right up. Crazy how that works... Thanks to everyone for the troubleshooting tips!!!

Ok I went through the relays and found the one that controls the fuel pump. It appears to be working fine so I next connected a line to the fuel pressure regulator to see if fuel was making it all the way through the TBI system and through the return like to the tank, which it is. Though I'm wondering if the regulator is not allowing enough pressure to build up to run the injector. When I spray starter fluid in the TBI I will get it to almost start and pop a couple times but that's it. So somehow I'm not getting fuel or maybe my timing is off, but I haven't moved the distributor so the timing should be fine. Unless anyone has any other ideas I think I'm going to tow it to a repair guy I found who is supposedly subaru expert in town since he's been working on them since 1984 I guess. Thanks cougar for your help and suggestions!!!

oops meant to type 16 not 17 as the error code...

The only sets of jumpers/connectors that I have been able to locate is the set by the wiper motor that is for clearing error codes from the ECU and the other set under the dash neither of which are connected. Also all fuses are good and the horn works. Upon some further troubleshooting and parts over the weekend I found that my 86 must have been a late production model since it has the ignition/electrical components of an 87. I replaced the distributor cap, rotor and coil. Since none of the 5 different auto part chains in town had a factory coil I used a universal ACCEL coil instead. I DEFINITELY have spark now. I then checked the fuel system and I have good fuel flow up to the TBI. Next I checked the voltage and resistance on the fuel injector which appears to be fine as well. Still no start up and after clearing the error codes on the ECU I get: 11 - Ignition Pulse 17 - Starter switch or circuit According to:http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

I have spark... or at least I got a good jolt from the plug wire :-\ Checked the distributor cap and the center contact running to the coil looks rather worn out. So going to try a new one of them. Also thinking I'm not getting any fuel either since another individual I spoke with said the fuel pump should not be cycling continuously when I turn the key on.

Upon further troubleshooting this evening I found that the trouble codes are now 16 followed by 11. Since my manual did not have a code result for 16 I did some searching and found this site. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Which indicated 16 - Crank angle sensor or circuit. My manual says this should only be on '87 and later models, whereas the website indicates it is valid for '86 as well.

I never had the green connectors under the dash connected to begin with. Should I have had them connected? jon