rub2race

Probably for the first year, repairs will be replacements unless suby finds problem spots. Lets Suby find problems cause and effect first hand in the units rather than second hand knowledge. Most manufacturers do this. Had one apart in class earlier this week. Pretty robust. Weighs almost 400 lbs. It can simulate a 5 speed auto if you like. Safeguards are in place to prevent things CVT's don't like. For a new transmission in a global market and a mainstay car, I think Suby has done some homework. The 6 speed stick is VERY similar to the current 5 speeds. I think EPA is 34 MPG on a bigger car!

You can get the clamp and grease from the dealer. They are seperate parts. The tool can be had at carquest or other parts places for about 12 buckaroos. Think you will have about 30 bucks in the fix. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Joint-Boot-Clamp-Tightening-Wrench/dp/B000X00EIU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1247105801&sr=1-10 or like this http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-CV-Joint-Banding-Tool/dp/B000I1E6OM/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1247105801&sr=1-11

What kind of finish should be on the heads? In the GM quad-4 headgasket days, the proceure was to "finish" the head with a red scotchbrite pad and a large metal "sanding block" for lack of a better term.Not a whizzer disc. Checked for flatness before and after. Not worrying about staining of the head. I'm doing all of the work.(tech for 18 yrs)Most of the way out tonight. All but the top bolts and it was time to go. Compression was the same cold as it was hot with fuel pump disabled. Hopefully will get it torn down this weekend. I will do a leakdown on the bench with a flywheel holder. Will use as a baseline and another piece of info to use on the determination. I think bore condition, and valve/guide condition will be basis on what happens next. Oil was last changed 2k ago and was about 3/4 full stick and clean. Plugs had some wear and were normal. One head was seeping oil from the top cam bearing cap and the head. Is anaerobic Loctite red jelly acceptable to uses there? Been using it for trans cases 1/2's and for adding to paper gasket applications. If I were to put in a replacement, I'd probably go with a subie shorty and rebuilt heads. Subie boneyard engines are just plain HIGH for playing the lotto. Thanks again for your advice everyone

Try the press. Might be toast though. I had one on a GM product so seized that the hub bent, the knuckle bent and the presses plates were bending. At least you were planning on replaceing the axle allready. I would do a wheel bearing too if you get it apart.

I will get a leakdown test done and try another compression test. I have a Mac gauge. Looks like the car was doing 1k a week for about 3 yrs. I should add an oil pressure test as well. Not expecting a miracle, but it would be pretty cool. What years cases, short blocks, and complete engines would be eligible for a low hassle swap? I can assemble an engine, just haven't had to do any subys yet. Thanks again-Dan

I would also look for vaccum leaks that might be plumbed in that cylinder too. can cause the same symptoms. Compression reading could be lower on that cylinder due to fuel washing the cylinder (from the miss) Could also be a crappy spray pattern from an injector. (also a "miss at idle" conspirator) Is it any better while the engine is cold or hot? Not saying its not a valve problem, Just throwing other things out there.

Little green D-check is gone too. It is now a fuse in the under hood block. The CVT trans is back. Hopefully Suby will do better with it than other makers.

Hello all, Looking for a little advice. I am pretty new to the Subaru. I bought a 00 Outback Wagon with 260k on the clock. Engine is a phase II sohc. I bought it knowing it gets warm out of the blue and the reserve fills itself up. Also needs a couple of regular common repairs. Smells and tests for exh in the reserve...+ external leakage on the drivers side head. Radiator cap holds pressure. You know the drill. Car is in excellent conditon (for the most part, looks like it has 60k on it) Has a fairly new radiator and new pep boys cats. I figured headgaskets with a likely overhaul or a replacement engine. Ck'ed compression tonight and it was 200 on the drivers side cyls and 205 on the pass side. 10 cranks-Wide open throttle-sounded good. This was after a fresh radiator fill and a short drive. I was pretty floored. I have no idea if it uses oil. I need to reseal the pan and want to do the t-belt, seals, t-stat, water pump and idlers. Do you guys (n'gals) think (like me) I should plan on leaving the shorty block alone? Of coarse ck the heads and install new valve seals while they are out. I'm thinking go ahead and pull the engine and do the rear main too. No time for a leak down tonight. Car had average use untill 8/05=90k on 8/07=194k 12/08=260k. It IS the original engine. What do ya'll think...Shes just broken in and I can switch to Amsoil? Thanks-Dan