georgeinmd

dmanaenk, re: 3): You mean I've been delusional for 4 1/2 years? George

I've had a set (of 5, which I rotated religiously) Michelin X1's on my '99 Forester for 65,000 mi. and 4 1/2 years, which still have considerable tread remaining. Best performing tires I've ever owned. I've owned a LOT of tires. -- George

A long shot, but it really happened on my '99, causing similar symptoms -- the neoprene boot over the opening in the bell housing for the clutch actuation arm was dislodged and causing the arm to bind against the edge of the opening. Its right on top and easy to see. -- George

My still very strong '99 with 135000 mostly 70+ mph is closing in on the best car I've owned (a mixed bag, to say the least, commencing with a '58 Morris Minor...). Only non-routine items: failed viscous coupling unit and (fortunately) contemperaneous failed trans. output shaft bearing at about 120000 mi., so far cured by a replacement used transaxel, and 4 (!) cracked windshields (any stats. out there?), fortunately replaced by insurance under MD law. Come git me, headgaskets! I defy you, rear wheel bearings!! Ah, hahahahaha... -- George

Just got through with this on my '99 Forester. Its definitely the center diff.; specifically the VCU, based on my experience. All my tires were matched, and it had the same symptoms -- binding only after warmup, not rolling when warm... I replaced the whole transmission with a used one, which worked fine, but of course, you're taking an increased risk of the same thing happening with a used one. $1000 sounds like a fair price for replacement -- my total for a used tranny replacement actually came to a bit more, in the DC area. -- George

Well, hmm... here's what I THOUGHT it was: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf (fig. 6), but that's a 2.5. I don't see any reference to it on a 2.2: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf Sorry if I muddied the waters... George

A little curved piece of metal partially surrounding and just larger than the crank sprocket that keeps the belt from jumping off. -- George

The gaurd is there to prevent the belt from loosening and potentially jumping out of time, if the the engine is forced to rotate backwards (e.g., if the car rolls backwards in a forward gear with the engine off). (This will happen only with a manual). I would advise replacing it to be safe. -- George

fwiw -- same thing happened to my friend's '03 Forester at 8000 miles. Here's a transcription of the dealer's technician's service ticket: "CUSTOMER STAETS CAR IS STUCK IN REVERSE; SPOKE TO MRS 11/19 TO LET HER KNOW THE PART CAME IN TODAY AND CAR MAY BE DONE THURSDAY; CAR WOULD NOT COME OUT OF REEVRSE - R/R UNIT; REPLACE 5TH AND REVERSE SYNCHRONISER WAS WORN AND SIEZED UP; REPLACED FORK FOR FIFTH AND REVERSE WAS WORN" (I suspect it was stuck in 5th & reverse since the wheels were locked up regardless of clutch engagement/disengagement). -- George

No, sorry; I have the ones specific to the '99 Forester -- don't know much similarity there is. FWIW, mine got gradually louder for several years, then got real loud, real fast (i.e., weeks). I guess its a crap shoot... -- George

Hi, classicalbass -- a timely question, fer shur. I just spent many hours and dollars on the same thing ('99 Forester). (Excruciatingly) long story short, I tried to tackle it myself; ended up replacing the whole transaxle with a used one. Anyway, I have all the parts out of the transfer case, and both the mainshaft bearing and the large roller bearing which supports the front of the differential unit have a LITTLE roughness -- but probably enough to cause the symtoms we hear (the VCU was also binding up). I don't have that much experience with this sort of thing, but I'm thinking your hunch is right. I have the appropriate pages out of the online workshop manual and would be glad to share them with you if that would help. They're surprisingly sketchy on "how to" stuff, but the illustrations are good... There's nothing in Haynes. -- George

You should be able to find a replacement socket at most random parts stores; I got one to fit my Forester at AutoZone. They may allegedly be for sealed beam headlamps, but they work on halogen bulbs, too. Cheaper, easier, and probably more reliable. -- George

Impeccable timing -- I just completed this job on my '99 Forester this weekend. There are split boots available that can be installed without dissassembling the suspension and axle; I have no experience with them, but I would be surprised if they last very long -- much better to take time to put OEM quality on. Its not too bad if you have some experience. You need to disconnect the lower control arm from the strut -- one bolt (but mine was rusted pretty badly -- heat and penetrating oil would have helped; push the stub axle out of the hub; probably need a hub puller for that -- mine was pretty rusty -- again, heat and solvent would have helped. Swing the strut and hub aside, knock out a pin that holds the inner joint on the transaxle output shaft and its off. Dissassemble and remove the inner joint and both inner and outer boots can be replaced. The boots I got from Car Quest had very good instructions with them. Again, you probably need some experience to tackle this, but nothing a good shade-tree mechanic can't do. -- George

Wonder if anyone's experienced this: '99 Forester MT 130K miles -- there's a whirring or clicking (depending on speed) coming from the transaxle. Listening with the shift boots removed, it seems to be from the transfer case/center diff./tail shaft housing. Frequency directly proportional to vehicle speed, not dependent on gear selected, but much more noticable on deceleration than acceleration. Gear oil looks fine, and tail shaft has no unusual play or looseness. Been getting louder for about a month. Any ideas??? Thanx -- George

"Bajas? We ain' got no Bajas. We don' need no Bajas. I don' have to show you any steengkeeng Bajas!"...? (JUST KIDDING!!!!!)