georgeinmd

This may be anomolous, but when my Forester did this, it was the dust boot that covers the hole where the clutch control arm enters the bellhousing, dislodged and causing the arm to bind. Worth looking at... -- George

Also see http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/paperclip/paperclip.htmlwhich explains what it is. I tried it; worked ok, but let the engine knock a little more than I liked. A new knock sensor ($62 from 1stsubaruparts.com) fixed it. -- George

See my thread on "Viscous Coupling Unit?" It sums up the state of my knowledge at this point. Please let me know if you learn any more. Thanx -- George

Ed beat me to it... he's right, I just got one for $65 from 1stsubaruparts.com for the same problem you're having. Did the trick. -- George

Its the only explanation I can see. My understanding (based on theory and research, not experience) is that the unit should permit differential rotation between front and back when there's a small difference in rotational speed, but begin to lock as rotation differential increases (as when front wheels start to slip under power). Thanks for the input -- George

cookie -- agreed; I'm not jumping on this right away. George

CardinaA -- mine's manual; I'm speaking of the unit that bolts to the tailpiece of the transaxle. Thanx, George

Sorry for the long lapse; thanks for the replies. Scubaroo, good suggestion on turning a rear wheel -- it doesn't; compared it with another Forester MT -- it does, so I'm concluding the unit is bad. A local shop corroborates this diagnosis. CardinaA -- any info on where your mechanic procured a new one? Thanx! -- George

Thanks, CardinaA! That would be great if you can find the supplier. That's about half the costs I've been quoted. -- George

Howdy -- My first post here. I'm impressed with the useable technical information I've seen here; hope someone can address this... '99 Forester L, (mt, regular front and rear differentials) -- feels like the viscous coupling unit in the center diff. is going south -- drive train binding in sharp turns after warm-up. I've read all the threads on torque bind, etc. Has anyone replaced this unit themselves? Is it something an experienced shade tree mechanic can do? Is the unit available anywhere except a dealer? Any advice, experiences, portents of doom, etc. welcome. Thanks very much -- George