Bad Brian

You read """THE" thread"""" on TB????????? Read the rest of them! One of them was started by me. Your AT fluid may never have been changed. Insert the fuse, no more TB means Duty C is good. Change AT fluid, drive car a day or two, change it again, drive it a week or two, change it again and you should be good to go. If putting the fuse in does not stop the TB then find a Subi specialist, not a dealer.

I have a 98 Civic EX AND a 98 Impreza OBS and the ABS has gotten me into trouble in both of them virtually every time it snows! I drove in my first snowstorm in 1969 and have been driving around in the snow ever since. In all of the other cars when trouble came up I would lock up the brakes as necessary, then release to aim the vehicle in the correct direction and lock up again, etc until I came to a stop. Once in a while it would be a hairy situation but usually excessive speed was to blame. That method of handling sliding was as natural as "turning into the direction of the skid' is for most of us. Now in crappy weather when I hit the brakes I have almost no stopping ability, just a lot of thumping and waiting to see where I end up sliding to or what I will slide into. I just slide thru stop lights and bounce off curbs! I have hated ABS since I got these cars and was wondering if it was possible or even legal to disable ABS. The ABS on the Civic also goes berserk when applying brakes while running over manholes or potholes also.

should I assume that "low input" would be electrical going TO the MAF sensor as opposed to the MAF itself?

Impreza wont keep running, got the code saying MAF low input, cleaned the MAF sensor anyway just because, keep getting the code. How do I deal with this "low input" issue?

I am happy to see that you focused on the spindle nut and not the OP's problem. A-Zone references possible spindle nut issue so I put it in my post so the OP would have an idea of what he faces since he never has done brake work!

DO NOT pay that kind of money! Calipers are likely not the problem. At worst you would need new rotors and that is something anybody with a toolbox can do. Rotors are $30 each at Autozone for your car. You will probably need spindle nuts (holds the rotor on) which Autozone, Advance and even the dealer did not have for my Impreza so I got them shipped from Rock Auto. You will have to get the torque spec. on them. They get crimped so they are single use unlike those that used cotter pins. Pads are $24 and up. I have had had similar symptoms on a 68 Lincoln and my 98 Civic. Rotor replacement solved the problem each time. On the Lincoln the large rotors allowed us to see that 2 fins between the rotor faces had corroded and that the caliper was compressing the faces together at that spot and then the rotor would force the caliper to open slightly as the good area rotated into the caliper. I do not know if that was the problem with the Civic or if it was warpage but replacement solved both issues. I find it strange that they wanted to sell you rear rotors for a front end issue but not rear calipers.

I have never had that angle to look at but a hooker friend that has had that view told me that my car is pretty much the same from that angle. I went back out, found the connector and now I am golden. thanks

the photo did not load before, now I see that it is not the same as my car, I don't think! Will go take a good look after the game is over, Uconn vs. Pitt (women)

Thanks, do I remove the panel or just feel/look up there?

I broke down and bought an Actron code reader. I found the connector easily on my Civic but I do not see it on the OBS and it is TOO cold to keep fiddling around out there. Please be somewhat specific, no "under the left side of dash" answers please. thanks

Okay, I bought an Actron code reader. Now, where is the plugin connection under the dash? On my Honda it is right next to the hood latch and can be accessed without even looking at it. I got down and looked in the Impreza could not see it. Even in the garage it is too freaking cold to be on my knees or crawling in on my back to look for something that may be elsewhere. It is a 98 Impreza OBS.

(the bremach was self build camper to travel around the world) That is a scary vehicle! You do not need it for those Dutch mountains! LOL

I was wonder if there is anything to be aware of when buying an OBD II scanner that will work with both my 98 Subaru 2.2 OBS and my 98 Civic EX

what would happen if the ECTS is disconnected? would the car not start? would it think that it is not warmed up? if it kept running wouldn't that confirm that the ECTS is the problem?

Put your seats down and you will see why there are no headrests. The headrests would hit the front seat. that being said, I guess that people who sit in back are expendable so that they do not need protection.

that is a good link, thanks any other ideas from you Subaru gurus?

Assuming that is the problem, where would it be located? I can not find a Haynes book for this car.

My OBS has started to stall after running for no more than 10 minutes. It seems to idle fine, then sputters, then stops. There seems to be excess moisture in the exhaust prior to stalling. Once it stalls it will not restart although it does seem to be firing. After about 1/2 hour it will start but then cut out again within 3-5 mins. and then must cool down all over again. It does throw a code but I do not have an OBD2 scanner. I can not make it to an A-Zone to have it read. It has about 56K, newer plugs and I put a new fuel filter on already. Coil? That was the problem with my Honda. Any other ideas? thanx

there is a dealer, Georgetown Subaru in Norwalk and Don Perkin's Subaru in Milford is 1/2 hour or so East off I-95. We actually have a couple of slopes here in CT. but you might see them as moguls! (sp?)

this was a lot of water, relative to what usually drips from an exhaust pipe.

I put plugs and wires on it in summer 2007 I think. You must realize that I only put 1800 miles on it since Nov 2007! It pretty much stays in the garage except to take my 83 yr. old mom to doctor appts. or to go for parts when my car is apart. It is my mother's but she has not driven it since 2004. If my brother takes her it is in this car also, as she likes going in HER car! I found her this car in April 2001 when it came off lease with 32 or 38K. It was driven every day for the next year to visit my dad at the nursing home (15 miles RT, sometimes twice daily) but when he died the use dropped way down. So the car is pretty much like it came from the showroom, original Potenzas also. I fixed torque bind problem in May with fluid changes. This crap today was a big surprise.

The car was built in 97 so age is the factor on the belt, not mileage. The other belts were cracked badly, I did them a couple of months ago. I checked the timing belt and while it looks and feels good I do not want to break it. These boxers are not interference engines but as a Honda owner the thought of T belt breakage is worrisome. My Civic is an 98 with 82K. That will be getting a belt also.

The car has 55K, going in for timing belt soon. I will be doing rear brakes too, for the first time. It does not get driven much. It was fine when I parked it a couple of weeks ago. It started and ran fine for 5 mins. before acting up today. It was also running fine when it started to put it away this evening. Once warm it was wacky. Is the computer actually UP under the dash or in the side? I do not have an OBD2 unit, I have to jump it!

the CEL was on after the car first acted stupid. When it started and was running it was off, after cutting out the light was on and when I put the car away it was off again. Is the jump location near the computer? Where is the computer on this car? It is by the passenger's right foot on my Honda and I have pulled codes on that car. I will check the plugs when I have a chance to get back to that car. There are not many miles on them, I know that. There was no antifreeze in the oil, I know that too.

I backed the car out of the garage and put it on ramps to change the oil. I left it idling to warm the oil while I got everything else ready. Then there was some sputtering and it died. I started it and it died quickly and then it would not start. I changed the oil and then the car stated so I put it off to the side where it sat while I did an AT fluid change on my Honda. When I finished that and put things away I went to get the Suby. It had sat for about an hour. I started the Suby and let it run and it was idling fine. As I was about to enter the garage it sputtered and died. Attempts to start it got sputtering and death. I did notice that significant moisture had shot out the exhaust about 5 feet at this time. After about a half hour it started and I put it away. Any ideas? Fuel filter? I probably should change it anyway. The car has the original filter, I think, since it only has 55K. What other possibilities?