hupshall

Boy, I don't really know. It's certainly not daily transportation at this point but I've had this car since college and I'm stupidly attached to it - I just couldn't let it sit and rot anymore plus I was getting sick and tired of people just coming up to the front door asking if I wanted to sell it. I've had the car for close to 20 years. I just stopped driving it because it wouldn't pass its emissions test - The emission control system with all of those one way valves on the Hitachi carb failed and I got tired of doing the smog waiver every other year. I'm a huge FI fan and it's so much easer for me to debug those systems than a carb so now it's old enough, I swapped the whole setup & it runs so much better for it. It's not my primary means of transportation - and in fact, it's not even my secondary. I'll just keep it maintained and enjoy it for the memories mostly. Man, I have too many cars - but heck, they keep me out of trouble

To Loyale 2.7 Turbo: The front cover is a standard issue LeBra front cover, it's been on the car ever since I bought it. The car looks quite strange to me without it on! The part number is 55242-01. I picked a spare one up on ebay for $20 a few years ago and I still see them occasionally. The manufacturer also still lists them available as new.

I was just so happy that I had to share. After being off the road (actually, parked on the side of my house for the past 4 years) I've finally gotten my '87 GL back on the road. Over the years I've slowly worked on it I've done the following: Complete FI & harness swap from an '88 GL Power windows and locks (was all manual) Rear inertia belts from a late model loyale It's running great. The last exhaust issues have just been fixed. It's time to start *using* the car again!

Ok, using my non scientific compression and measuring technique Shorter axle compressed: 25.5" Longer axle compressed: 27" Shorter axle bearing carrier length: 2.25" Shorter axle spline length: 1.5" Longer axle bearing carrier length: 2.5" Longer axle spline length: 1.25"

well, besides that, the bearing carrier & spline section are also different lengths - on the "shorter" axle, the spline is about 1/2" longer than the spline section on the "longer" axle.

I just got a couple of reman front axles for my '87 Gl 4WD but they look too short compared to a cordone part I have in my garage. What is the tip to tail length supposed to be for one of these axles at rest? the ones I just picked up are ~26" & the cordone one is ~27.5"

Yup, it was the temp sender. A new one at shucks fixed the problem and the car is now idling at the correct rpms. Job Done & thanks.

Ok, I spent a while working on it today, I can't find any vaccum leaks, but it sounds as if there is one.. but heck, it could be the power steering pump or alternator making that whistling noise... Anyhow, I followed the suggestion and once the system was warmed up, I unplugged the temperature sensor and started the car back up - whoa, it idled at about 750rpm. I will replace the sensor and probably the thermostat just to be sure and let everyone know.

I spent all day working on the car sorting out the trouble codes. I had 6 to start with - and am now down to just two, 33 and 42. I'm a little concerned about these two since when I followed the diagnostics for trouble code 42, I got to the "replace control unit" - I put in my spare brain and it still was screwing up. I have cruise control in this car, which still works - and requires the speed signal. I've confirmed that the pin on the ECU for the speed signal has continuity with the cruise control so I'm going to be scratching my head on this one as well. Idle is still crap, 2000 rpm's

I'm finishing up converting my '87 GL from carb to FI. I have it starting up and running but the idle is extremely fast - 2000 +/- 500rpm. When I unplug the Air Control Valve, the idle drops down to 500rpm. I'd like to get some ideas as to things to check.

I am in the process of doing a bunch of work on my old '87 GL. I've finished converting it from carb to FI and now I'm putting in some power accessories. I have converted from manual to electric windows and am currently working on putting in the factory power door locks. One thing has me puzzled - The power door lock latches for the front doors have a three connector harness. I have gone through the wiring diagrams that I have but I have been unable to identify where these wires need to end up going. Does anybody have a wiring diagram that covers these wires?