doc526

Nice idea! I did not have much trouble getting mine out. I'm one of the lucky ones and live in Georgia where salt is virtually non-existent. I saw your question regarding the spring. My spring was ok but I had tons of slop when shifting gears. It's still shifting great.

I get the rain X brand from wal-mart. I am pretty happy with them.

When I started this ordeal a while back, the first question I wondered is how exactly does the computer determine a misfire. From what I have seen and read, the computer looks at the crank sensor and if it determines that the crank speed is different than what it is looking for, it throws the code. Some of the things I asked myself were what would cause a cylinder to slow down? My inital answer, poor ignition. Next questions was what parts are associated with that? Etc and go from there. I would start with the simple things first. Pull the plugs and check. Pull the crank sensor and check. I have heard about crud building up on the sensor causing them to drop the magnetic field that triggers them. Spray the coil with water. Check your timing. Since it is happening at idle it seems that it what ever is causing it is pretty severe. Then if you do start changing parts, go one at a time. This way you can be certain that you have actually fixed what was wrong. If I had not had an issue with a Hyundai I once owned, I would of called BS on the plug wire issue. I went through 4 sets of aftermarket wires before I returned them and bought OEM wires. Hope that helps. Dean

Mine never gave any symptoms of a misfire either. The code usually occured durning high speed cruising on the highway and the light would start flashing.

Im with Fairtax. The standard plugs seem to be ok. Im still running the same plugs and Yazaki wires from when I last posted. I pulled the plugs about a month ago and they still look ok, I might change them as it has been 2 years and about 40K since then.

Here is the repair I did along with a write up. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/109623-shifter-linkage-replacement/ From a wear stand point, I suppose the thing that the most damage would occur where there is metal to metal contact on the knucle where the bushings are worn out. Mine was rattling and being annoying so I changed it. Good luck. Dean

According to the document for troubleshooting that was posted above, 150 milliamperes should be the maximum draw in standby. I would think that since Subaru posted that in 2008 and it says that it is for all models it should be good for the 06 model.

I have put the tone rings on and made them reasonalby tight with an allen wrench. You know, not Bruce Banner tight but nice and tight. On a second note, something I have not seen mentioned is that you might want to remove the ABS sensor from the knucke if possible. This way when you hit the stud with the hammer you don't impart severe shock to the sensor. Has any one done this without removing the sensor and not have any problems? Just curious. :cool: Good Luck! Dean

New drive belts last week. :-\ Alt/PS one exploded sometime on the highway while driving home from work. Noticed it when I went to make a right turn sans power steering. Could not tell that the alt and brake light were on due to the sun shining on the gauges. Dean

Cool. That finished install looks great. Dean

Nice work! How are you planning to attach it to the interior structure? Curious as I would like to do something similar for an old 12" Kicker Solobaric L7 I have laying around.

My dad and I have used PPG stuff in the past on the hot rods and it seems to work good. Recently, Duplicolor has put out a line called Paintshop and I have been wanting to try it out. You can get all the items from your local auto parts store vs. going to an auto body supply shop.

This is what you might be looking for. They are like a stripped screw removal tool. They will slip over the wheel lock and as you turn to get it off, they get a tighter grip. There are cheaper sets out there. This is what I happen to find quickly. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/KENTOOL-Wheel-Lock-Remover-Kit-6ZAY9?gclid=CJL5ntfb-7ACFQ1T7AodPV3PdA&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehicle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Mechanical-_-6ZAY9&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=6ZAY9&ef_id=XgdP8fUlgVsAAFiW:20120702192317:s

1997 OBW 2.5 5Mt ~170,000 miles I had a stumble around 1600rpm while taking off from a stop. Been doing it for about 6 months. Did some reading and saw some suggestions on cleaning the MAF. So I took it out and hit it with some MAF cleaner. So far it has been 200 miles and it seems to have worked. Hope this helps Dean

How's the rest of the car holding up at its mileage and how are you planning on using the car normally are some of the things I would be looking at. Although you could always swap all the parts over to a newer car if you stayed in that model family. I considered swapping my mounts to group n until I read about the increased noise inthe cabin. My car is primarily used for everyday commuting and hauling the family around so that was not really desirable. Plus I don't plan on racing it anytime soon......