pappy52

Oh Boy! BFH! I would assume that is not the tool to use to reassemble, if one was to try. Thanks, Jon

Thanks for the reply! I was just talking about seperating the stub part (that goes into the hub) from the rest of the axle, and then putting the stub only back on the car so it can be moved around on all tires. Just need to be able to push it from point A to B, and maybe C. Thanks, Jon

I removed the front axles from a parts car, and want to use the stub from the bad one I am replacing. I will need to do this twice to keep the parts car a "roller". Do the CV joints come apart? (On purpose) Or do I need to cut them off? Or crawl under the car in the field and stick them back on the tranny? Jon

Not saying it is a "must have" or "must" do. Just that I felt like doing it right, and thought of this way for no expense. I work on my daily driver, and other people's rigs, and - the books give values, so thought I'd use them. Just thought others might find it useful. Jon

Like this attachment Jon (Rolaids are my friend)

Never done it "right" until I made this tool. I made one out of a piece of wood with two dowels and glued a hex socket to it. Worked twice. since then have been using an adjustable "pin" wrench (used for water and fuel caps on boats) and just relied on my guess on torque. Always seemed to work, but felt bad about not doing it right. Tool is used so you can take the slack out of the belt, but still have the right amount of tension on it. The manuals give values for both new and used belts. Please, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Jon

I'm sure it's metric, but by my tape it is 3 1/16+ across, and 2 3/8+ between the four holes. I didn't want to mess with machining or anything, (which would have been more elegant), so did it with bolts and stuff. Hope it works! Jon

Wiring here, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10049&cat=500 from manual '90-'92 Loyale, hope it helps.

Thought I'd show my "Macgyvered" cam pulley tool. An old pulley, a bumper bolt, nut, and four 1/4x20 nuts and bolts. Now I can use my torque wrench! Jon

Oops, my bad. I just caught the "Kansas" part of your address out of the corner of my eye. Jon

Isn't your state tree a telephone pole?

Bought my '88 GL wagon new, so...18yrs. 247012 mi. Only been to the dealer for the first timing belts. Had a '79 then bought new an '84, then bought the '88. Jon

My gaskets were pretty new, and had no problem using them. Disconnect the sender wire and remove the header nuts. Jon

I just did this yesterday, and I dropped the exhaust. Just need to undo from the heads, and used an o2 socket with the slot in it. 5 minute job. Jon

Don't know how you are getting along on this, but I finally got some pics of mine. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=3814 It does pick up the signal from the coil. Hope the pictures work and can help you. Jon

Will look tomorrow. It works basically like a tach. When you go uphill, the engine slows down, gives it gas till it gets back to the set RPMs, etc. I think the only car wiring was like hot wire, wire to "cold" side of brake switch, and the signal wire (From coil) The rest of the wiring is stuff on the unit itself. I would have thought that alot of the aftermarkets would be like this, but will double check. Jon

I have installed 3 aftermarket units. My Pinto used the magnets on the drive shaft, my van uses an wire loop coil that clips around the negative (I think) coil wire, and the one I put on my '88 GL---I can't remember but will look tomorrow, but I think it uses the coil also. It doesn't read car speed, but RPMs. Jon

We were talking in my other post. The '92 does have the interminttent wipers. Do you show the positions, or have 4 stops, (off,int,low,hi) on your switch? If so, maybe you them, but have a motor or switch problem. Jon

I have removed the harnesses from both a '87 Carb EA82 manual, and a '92 FI auto. the '92 has an extra white, flat, 17 pin connector that the '87 doesn't have. Also the '87 has a black box thing on the kick panel, whereas the '92 has the same thing in blue. The wire colors are different between the two. The conversion manual doesn't seem to address these. What do I do with them? Anyone willing to have me bring the harnesses to them to scope them out? I am on Camano Island in Washington. Thanks, Jon

I have read the conversion manual. I have a complete harness removed from a '92 FWD Auto, including fuse box, fusible link box, relays, large block with main connectors (blue, black, white), the whole works. I want to but it into a '87 D/R. I know the manual talks about cutting and splicing, but will this complete harness just plug into the '87 wiring? Thanks, Jon

Don't know if this will help or hinder anyone. I stole a few things from other board members, but most is from my own use and research. Cheers! Jon

Don't know if this is usable, but this is from my own research, and stolen from others. It is an Excel sheet, so I can be modified if needed. Jon

I should know this, but shouldn't my O2 LED be flashing when the engine is running? I thought that it would indicate the sensor is doing it's thing. Not talking about codes and such, that works fine. Just under normal conditiopns the light is not lit. Thanks, Jon

found it somewhere else- FYI 34 to 43 ftlbs Jon

Mounted backing plate, but where the torque is supposed to be in my book, it has heater torques, etc. What is the torque for the backing plate, please? Jon